dr_hunt

I think the size of the injector depends on HP level, You don't want to put in too large an injector otherwise your idle and low speed will may suffer depending on how your firing the injectors, sequence or batch. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I think your using the term "engine builder" out of context. The guy that built your engine is commonly referred to as "Shade Tree Mechanic" as a real one would have used a degree wheel and had it dead nuts!

stock springs max out at about .450 lift. Even then you have to shim them to get seat pressure. More importantly you have to check retainer to guide clearance and likely if your over that you have to cut the guides down (read machine shop time). Oh, and ditch the valve rotators on the exhaust valves and put intake retainers on them instead. It's better to buy matching springs IMO and take it to a machine shop to have them installed correctly, depending on cam lift. If your going GM crate engine it will be out of the vehicle, which is the best time to change that stuff, add and intake while your at it. Go with a mild cam, you'll be 30 to 40 horses ahead of where you were, get an intake and some long tube headers and you'll be close to the 300hp mark. Any more than that and you'll need some better heads. Ask anybody, 300HP in a z is pretty fast.

I think j mortensen is working on that kind of thing right now. PM him for some details about exactly what he's doing or going to be doing.

You just never know who has a gun do you?

The best flowing stock GM low compression heads are the 882 castings, worked they make pretty good power. For high compression heads the vortec's for iron and the 18 degree heads for aluminum. Dart iron eagle platinum heads are good cast heads, AFR aluminum's are king of the hill. If your going turbo, you won't need any heads as 700Hp is attainable from a stock engine with appropriate boost, intercooling and tune, on pump gas. Turbo setup, don't know, HP performance out of Roswell, NM makes some kick butt systems capable of 8 second passes, single turbo, intercooled, nice!

Crap, your doing what I wanted to do EFI with methanol, the good meth. Well, depending on where your tank is and you hp level, you'll need at least a -8 line and a return line as well. Probably for your engines capability the A1000 efi pump will suffice. I bought a boost referenced aeromotive 4 port regulator as well, one for return, one for gauge and two for carb, but would work for you I"m sure. Injectors, depends on what duty cycle your at now as to how large your going to have to go. But it is 1 lb/hr per HP and figure 6.34 lb/gallon. Accel makes some stainless internal alcohol compatible injectors up to 175lb/hr in both low and high impedance I think, which would put you at 700HP capability from a fuel standpoint. Make sure you run a good stainless alcohol filter, available at any circle track parts place online, mine was $50 and came with -10 fittings but -8's were available. 10 micron filter element, you can get a 5 micron as well. The downside is that alcohol eats rubber and brass over extended periods of time. I've run it for 5 years and never had a problem but I blow all the lines out and spray penetrating oil in the inlet of the pump and carb when I have it disassembled. If you run stainless fuel rail and the aeroquip TFE race hose, it isn't nearly as much of a problem. On a boosted application I'm told that you can expect 150 to 200 more HP over gas. So be prepared when sizing your fuel injectors. Also the engine will run cooler.

linky no worky

Well, my build is; 3.75 stroke eagle crank 6 inch Eagle rods Lunati 14:1 4.155 bore pistons AFR 220 heads Comp solid roller .645 lift, 260 duration Edelbrock Victor E MSD 7AL2 S&S long tube headers 4000 stall PG 4.30 gears dyno'd at 690HP!

Since it's new, you could skip the lifters and just change the cam. Provided the cam is correct for the springs, otherwise you'll have to change springs, which is easy to do with the engine out.

Well, they are just a general engine re-builder. IMO that's not what you want. If your going to purchase an engine I'd go GM all the way and get warranty, plus it's a new engine, not rebuilt. I cry sometimes when I see you guys buy rebuilder specials like that, knowing what goes or doesn't go into them.

400Hp isn't going to have a stock idle. Those are good heads, think about going with a small hydraulic roller like the zz4 cam. The heads will bump up the compression abit too. You might reach close to the 400HP mark but that depends on intake, exhaust, tune, etc. Grumpy probably has some cam recommendations, PM him directly, I'm sure he'll have a host of info for you. You must mean the 1.6 rockers in relation to 1.5's. Worth a few ponies and alittle bit of TQ, nothing to write home about though. Roller rockers do aid in longetivity of valve guides though. Something to think about for a daily driver.

Maybe if it's an electrical gauge. If your running alot of oil pressure it can have that effect on a sender. Try a mechanical gauge that reads to 100psi.

Yeah, back in the days, I had a 1976 v8 vega, let a buddy drive it and he smashed the oil pan on a rock, I told him i had to pull it and fix it, he thought it'd be alright. Shelled out the next day! Been there done that already! Wisdom of experience is great, just that some of the experience that lead to the wisdom was not so good and expensive.

Yes, it clears the stock "cowl induction hood" just fine. Actually if it still had the stock hood, it'd clear that too. My intake is a dated "scorpion" intake by Edelbrock that I had laying around. I'd do the fender exhaust but it is a street car and I really don't want to mess up my paint job, so that's a no go there. I'll look around and see what other options are available, while I"m cussing Gale Banks and their statement that it fits all GM chassis since the g-body was around in the 70's through the '80's when this was developed. Chris Chow's car is really nuts, 7's in a g-body at 175+mph!!! That's a ken duttweiller built 396 cubic inch sbc if I remember correctly, has 18 degree brodix heads. Those are not light weight mustang type cars. Mine weighs 3550 with a half tank of gas. While this car isn't in the same category as chris chow's car, I'm still thinking I can lay down over 800rwhp with this setup and be in the high 9's. I still have to call thaagard for one of his custom intercoolers, which is next, then I think I can lay down 1000+rwhp.

If you have other damage, it's likely bearings, cam, lifters, might have galled the rockers too. If you did, take this fine opportunity to build a 350 and experience some more power. Even if you buy a crate GM engine for $1700 it'll run alot better than the 305.

There's no such thing as "Too much" so I'd go with the 350. Oh, and remember that "Can't never did", so get cracking with the can do attitude, it's not as hard as you think.

Congratulations and WOW! That is a really nice car and you have done some fantastic work!

I'd send it back and get another turbo, you'll end up with almost as much in that one fixing it as getting a new one.