The Q-jet is simple, read the directions that come with the rebuild kit. Tear it all the way down and I mean all the way. Soak it in carb cleaner for a few hours, rinse it off, blow with compressed air all the passages. Ok, so you install the base plate and gasket then comes the idle air jets (hopefully you have an early qjet otherwise you drill the lead coverings to access them) Install them 1.5 turns out from closed to start with. Make sure the linkage is free and the primary throttle blases cover about half the transfer slot (vertical slot in primary base plate in venturi area), Next is the primary metering rod adjustment. On some qjets it is adjustable from the front of the carb on others it is not. If it is not take a pair of wire cutters and cut about 1/8" off the little brass rod sticking out of the primary metering rod barrel thingy that holds the primary metering rods. If it's adjustable, lower it until the top of the barrel thingy is about flush with the little hard plastic retainer when you push it down. This is your cruise part throttle leaning effect, this will give you more mpg's when cruising and have no effect on WOT performance. Install the float, needle and seat and set to factory spec then install the primary metering rods and barrel, put top gasket on, should hold it all into place, don't forget the spring under the primary metering rod barrel. If you lower the float a 1/16th it'll lean it out a bit but no reason to do that, just change metering rods if you need too. The air valve for the secondaries is a little screw on the passenger side, underneath is a allen set screw to hold it in place. You release the set screw, tighten the screw until the spring just touches and starts to have tension. Tighten 3/4 turn for sbc, 1 turn for BBC. You can play with this later on the vehicle if it needs more but I doubt it will. I like to install the top of the carb with the secondary metering rods in place, but it's kind of tricky to get them in the secondary jets, make sure you get them in the jet holes right. Bolt it on and it should work fine, if you need more fuel change metering rods, GM has a chart that goes from lean to rich and they have numbers like 041 etc. the secondary metering rods are much the same as is the hangars, the performace secondary metering rod hangar is a K hangar, you'll see some j's but most are K's. Not a big deal, but the plastic cam also wears out, might change that too, they come in colors, so make sure you get the right color. The early qjets are more performance, the later ones are emissions. The best one to get is an early one '75 through '77 with the electric choke. I likey the electric choke. The heat chokes suck IMO.
Wire the electric choke hot wire to the alternator output wire (2 prong plug in in a GM) That way if it dies for some reason the choke doesn't come off during cold weather before the engine warms up.
Bolt on and adjust idle air for best vacuum not smoothest running. Timing on stock should be about 12 to 14 degrees intitial advance with vacuum disconnected. Bigger cams need more initial advance IMO.
Just my $.02