dr_hunt

Well, IMO they wings are just a crutch for having a small johnson under the bonnet!!

I think the main problem is that the stock z trans won't hold up to the torque. Better to find an another GM trans that will work. Back in the scarab days my boss built a white 260z with the scarab kit and we put a t-10 trans in that car. It was really nice!

I emailed Dave, $1358 plus shipping for the front, which includes lower billet aluminum control arms. In a month, those are mine!

Nope The pinks car belongs to Larry "Cozy Z Cole", it is his wish that it become a new build, new life, in his wife's memory. I had proposed a hybridz build since I had gotten so many PM's regarding another build. But if it isn't agreed upon as a hybridz build then it'll be just another build, maybe a group build but not a hybridz build. People do have that option, and can participate or not at their discretion.

Let me put it this way... Larry wants the parts to be sold and money used for a new build in his wife's memory, period, end of story. My understanding is Dan, myself and Larry will make that happen, one way or the other. If anyone wants to be in on it great! The more the merrier. There will be no discussion on powerplant and drivetrain and function, it's dictated by what we have and what is donated. We were pondering a 2+2 chassis for a longer wheelbase, but I have a standard 260 sitting outside. It may take a year or more to build, but it will be a nice car that probably runs 8's in the 1/4 on motor.

Oh man, gotta get some of those. I want the billet lower fronts with the adjustable t/c as well to go with those.

Schools that teach auto mechanics isn't the same as Hi-po engine building. When you use non stock parts it can get out of depth for the parking lot puddle folks. But anyway even a stock rebuild needs to be spot on. Did they turn the crank?, if so was it done right?, what bearing clearance?, were the rods resized?, if not then what did they mike at? Experience will tell you that some machine shops might have a crank grinder and a rod resizer, but the operator is where it's at. Every machinist will tell you that every machine has it's quirks and you have to know them and be in tune with it in order to get it right, which means straight, indexed properly and round! Check Braap's thread on the P90a head!!!! Same with rods, have to have proper crush to work, never IMO use a used rod without having it sized properly first. The factory doesn't so why should you? In most cases use new bolts. ARP's should be changed after 5 torqueings IMO. CARR bolts are stronger than the rod and no replacement is supposedly necessary. Cleanliness has in alot of instances killed otherwise perfectly good engines IMO. I've seen the results of dirt in motors for one reason or another kill a well built motor. One of my pet peeves is watching guys do low buck rebuilds and ridge ream and hone the cylinders without removing the galley plugs or the cam bearings!!! Wrong, Wrong and Wrong. Ridge reaming is for dummies who don't know better, cause if it has a ridge you can feel, it has too much bore taper to seat new rings properly. Bottom line is you'd better use somebody else next time cause if he didn't get it right the first time, chances are he won't get it right the second time either IMO.

Easy miles means nothing IMO. I run 'em pretty hard from the get go. Get the rings seated and let it rip. Basically it wasn't put together right in the first place.

Ok, guys, this isn't going anywhere real fast. A wave is five of the middle fingers, kind of a 5 day supply. Disarm by waving, get out of the way, don't make eye contact, it isn't worth it. Nobody made you the keeper of the streets and you don't know what kind of life he has right now. If this keeps going like it has I'll send it to the tool shed.

I was looking at buying the same for the front. I'm guessing here but for a drag application I'm assuming the azc one's to be the right choice since adjustment will probably never change.

I buy by the drum $110/drum....

2 hats and 2 shirts here. One XL and one L shirt each. Where do we send paypal money to and how much?

That's great mike, you are truly blessed. The rest of us can only hope to achieve the satisfaction of owning and driving so many neat cars. :mrgreen: This is a lesson that I've spoken about before. If one is willing to trade off or sell their cars in order to experience a new one, you will have alot more new experiences, like Mike has had, in your life. Of course having a good job doesn't hurt and education is the key to the future, since you can go through life laying on your back two ways, one is being a mechanic and the other is being a prostitute.

Welcome, Turbo Boost does wonders for the smile on your face when the foot is on the gas. There is alot of info around here and knowledge in the members, but I'd guess turbo is going to be the way to go, probably the easiest and cheapest, but it depends on what you want to do with the car, what kind of shape the engine is in, what trans you have, etc, etc, etc. Alot of the folks have gone with the dodge hy35w turbo, do a search on that, there are alot of other turbo's that will work depending on what you want to do. You can PM members and ask questions or you can use the search function and get hours and hours of reading and information that way which is highly recommended if not mandatory.

I think john is stating the obvious, do it right the first time instead of being in a rush, which always ends up biting you in the a$$ later. As far as wondering what johnC is thinking, maybe we don't want to know.

Well, that depends on where you live. Here it's so dry that that doesn't happen, and your correct that there isn't enough oxygen inside a completely welded tube to rust through.

Well, what had been kicked around was selling off the pinks car parts for a new build, actually that's larrys wishes for the parts. Then for members to donate money to finish the build if necessary and participate in their own capacity. The goal would be a car of impeccable quality that anyone would be proud to display. This may take awile to build as well. We were looking for some way of sustaining funds through donations or sales of?? I guess tee shirts, hats, pins etc. would be one way of adding funds. Custom one off parts would be another. Anyway it's a thought since SuperDan owns some other domain names closely related to hybridz.org. Keep in mind that hybridz.org has to have money as well just to exist for all of us to use. So donate to that regardless of amount. It's rather complicated, but it would be doable depending on the organization and structure of a "group", timeframe and funding sources. Pinks was a collaboration of a few that went to the many solely on behalf of the few. This is a discussion about a few that want to appeal to the entire hybridz members that should result in a tangible object with a name and apperance. Sponsorship seems to have the same type of competition but it puts members in competition with other members and as it has been said. "Certainly won't please everyone", and has the same problems associated with just another build, plain and simple. The idea is to discuss what is on the table. While there are members that pretty much do as they please with their own builds, there are those that don't and can't but would like to participate in something no matter how small the contribution is and whether the contribution is work or parts or $. I'm neutral, I have 3 race vehicles now and pleanty to do as it is. In fact since work has been pouring in the z will be getting a complete makover including, new front suspension and new engine, and the '33 dodge will be getting the 406 that is currently in the z.

Yeah, I'd like to see that scenario!

Where is the money going to come from that you speak of?

In order for tubing to rust from the inside out it has to have water or some kind of moisture inside the tube when it's enclosed or it has to have a hole in it somewhere where moisture can get inside it. Properly welded tube frames almost never experience that. Even dune buggy frames don't have that problem. I had a chenoweth dune buggy frame from the 70's back in 1995 and I had no problems with it and it went through the rio grande so many times it wasn't funny.

The cummins turbo diesel weighs 1000+lb by itself, I read somewhere that the engineers had to design the ram for an additional 1100lb with increased cooling and extra battery, so I doubt the car would be able to handle the weight increase at any type of speed since the stresses on the body would be too great. Kind of like having a fully loaded car to start with and then you get in it. My manual trannies are cast iron housings and heavy as well. Bet they weigh 300lb as well and they are rather large. The automatic is overly large as well. So that would put a full dressed z in at 3400 to 3500 lb curb weight and with a 200 lb driver would be maybe even 3700lb. Oink! Oink!

Dan is his own corporation, a one man band, just ask his wife, he even sleeps alone most of the time! Dan and money go together like oil and water, he actually never touches money because he's married. If you are married you'll understand, if not, don't bother cause you'll never understand. If we had Dan's money, we could throw ours away collectively, all $0.37 worth. My boy really doesn't want another hybridz build cause if I build the engine and car it's likely to be faster than his and that doesn't sit well with him. LOL

depends on your piston to bore clearance, rpm you plan on turning, and typical temp range of the engine. For a racing engine .100 is about the minimum you want to see IMO and I prefer .125 but my rev limiter is at 7400.