SUNNY Z

I still see the biggest problem with rebuilding one as the lack of cores. You will likely still pay 1200-1500 for a mystery mileage unit with unknown symptoms, and then still end up with big money in parts in it, not to mention labor. Hats off to you if you decide to go that route, but my advice is to buy a new one. You'll thank me later. For reference, I bought my trans as a "pullout" from a wrecked car, and ended up putting $950 in PARTS into it the first time, and then another $250 in machine work the second time i had it apart.

Only twice with this one. I've had others apart as well though. I'm going to keep it the same for now, possibly adding an oil pump. Basically a "stage 2" unit. I probably will look at selling it and buying a magnum before I drop more money on a Viper or SSR mainshaft.

That's just MIG.

You'll have less money in a magnum t56 by the time you make all the mods to make a standard t56 live reliably. Plus, with a magnum or TR6060 you get a low mile, better unit with triple cone synchros.... There are some who have fairly stock units holding this power, but its a time bomb IMO. If I had it to do over again, I'd have a magnum T56 in mine. Lord knows it would have been cheaper........... Live and learn.

Truth. Much better option than the LS1 pan, if it hasn't been said yet. Internal baffling, and lower profile.

I was referring to the trans crossmember in the above post. I will have about $100 in the motor and trans mounts when I'm done, +350 for a good driveshaft (not some 2.5" steel thing that i wouldnt trust to 300whp). The JCI mounts work, I have used them. They are bulky and old fashioned, but they do work. And you're right about the welds. Maybe I should just find another hobby.

T3 Plates here. Great product, but the key as stated is in the installation. You need to get them straight or you will be getting a camber and caster adjustment at the same time! They do include machined aluminum tops for the springs to keep them centered. Great pieces, even better service. Gabe is the man.

I built my own for about $10. Fit my dual 3" exhaust, and installed easily with 4 bolts. I thought the JCI kit was cheesy and overpriced, personally.

Project is on hold for a while. Winter in Iowa is less than pleasant, especially with an un-insulated, unheated garage. Sooooo, I'm taking some time off from the car to make my garage habitable. I've already trenched in a gas line, and its nearly plumbed in. I've also insulated and finished the walls, and am half done with the ceiling. Hopefully finish the ceiling this weekend, and start insulating (blow-in). Picked up a Modine Hot Dawg 60K BTU heater, so it should keep it NICE and toasty out there.

I might add that at the track the car was cutting 1.48- 1.5x 60'

Did you ever finish this? Hoping to get some insight on my next plunge on the 8.8 mounts.

Mine were very close as well. Z31 NA CV for what its worth. I just hammered the band clamp down a little, and they clear just fine!

I thought I would update this a little. Put about 5K miles on the car this year, with close to 50 launches on slicks (600+ rwtq), and NO ISSUES!

Awesome. I'm betting this was your issue.

You can lift just the passenger's side with a 2x4 and a floor jack. Its precarious and tricky, but will get you out of a tight spot if you don't have a cherry picker.

Ah. I was just curious because I've seen more MSD failures than stock ones. Hope they work out for you.

Is there a reason you're using the MSD coils? Bling factor?

No problem. I'll be sure to post it up.

Core support is cut out. I'll be making something to tie the rails together once i get the hot side finished up. I don't want to have this happen!

Should have swapped a diesel. No spark plug probz then!!

Thanks! I'm going to be building my own mounts and ditching the JCI setup, so there should be room. I'll be going under the starter, so that shouldn't be an issue. I probably have more room going past the trans though, with a t56, and being a 280z.

More downpipe.

Bends showed up today, so I was able to get to work on a couple small things. Started with my 3" to 4" transition for my downpipe. Bought this 2.25"-4" cone from columbia river, and had the v band. High tech, precision scribing device Cut using cutoff wheel on 4" angle grinder, and cleaned up Finished Product:

No. Tuning will be done via the Holley HP EFI system. It uses the MAP sensor values and wideband.

Worked on locating the turbo tonight. Trying to run this, or the 2520 filter which is 5". Not sure if it will give me the flow I'll need.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-ru-2510/overview/