SUNNY Z

I say you're going in the right direction. Not yet. Planning on fixing the stuff that broke this weekend (minor, see 8.8 thread) and hitting the track friday.

Holy crap! Its been three weeks already!?!? I apologize. I made the list in excel, but i couldn't upload it. Send me your email and I'll get it headed your way until i figure out how to host it. FACT. I've put 1100 miles on the car since the rear swap so far. I beat on it pretty hard this weekend at KC2K13. It started to develop a clunk when I would get on it. Threw it in the air to investigate today, and found this: Other side Its a good thing I Loctite'd them as well as using lock washers! Those are the back two bolts. I'm not 100% sure how I'm going to remedy this yet. Probably beef up the area, and re-weld some nuts in there.

Proud to say I have over 4500 miles on the swap now. Should be going on the dyno later this week. Any guesses?

Run away. I have no time for people that secretive that I'm spending money with. Its not a goddamn pro stock drag car.

There is an older thread. I get about 20 all the time. doesn't really seem to matter how i drive it.

Should be able to fit a 28" no problem.

Now you see why I like the 3.54's! I always engine brake, and use brakes a supplement

Did a couple test hits on the nitrous on a 50 shot. Its working! Hopefully going to get it tuned this weekend, and try to get kicked out of a drag strip. I worked on installing some insulation today. I was able to get the doors, and the roof done. It makes a slight difference, but I think most of my noise is coming from the floor pans / rear deck area. Using : http://www.lobucrod.com/ Seems to work well. I like it because its super light weight, easy to work with, and cheap!!! The second one was easy. I just used the first one as a pattern, and marked all the holes, cuts, etc. Then I used appropriately sized sockets to punch out the holes, using a hammer, and 2x4 backer.

the bar has been raised! I need to get to the strip..... maybe next weekend.

Procharger offers plenty of schematics on their website. You can get all the measurements for all the kits available. Be sure to remember rotation. F body is reverse, vette and truck are standard. Not sure of the others. This matters because of where the body of the blower will sit. Either in front of or behind the crank. OR, you could be a pioneer and make your own bracket!

Do the 240's have the faux floor in the hatch? That proved very useful. I drilled out my holes for the bottle mount, and then thru-bolted from the bottom. I put nuts on the top side, under the bottle mount, and then another nut on top of the bottle mount. basically made it into 4 studs - easy removal.

I custom made the blow-down tube. 90* hose end by the bottle, ~18" -8AN hose, straight hose end, and a -8 bulkhead through the floor. Safe AND legal.

Didn't you see the pic above? Theres not much else to see....? And yes, it has been (what seems - by comparison) tropical here. Now if the rain would stay away!

What would you like pics of keith? Its just an older ny-trex bottle. I like it because it has a gauge built into the valve. That way you don't have to put pressure in the line to check bottle pressure. I picked it up local for $60 IIRC. I have a ZEX bottle, and an old NOS bottle (that i'm having re-powdered black) They're usually pretty cheap used.

Finished this up today. Also was able to get the bottle mounted. I like the location for 3 reasons. 1) I can see the bottle pressure at a glance. 2) I can reach it from the drivers seat. 3) It doesn't take up all the space. I'm sure someone will tell me that the siphon tube isn't going to be ideally supplied. To that I say, NASCAR the bitch. GO FAST. TURN LEFT Hopefully be able to get some street tuning in this week.... I could just throw it on the dyno and also get it tuned, but I'm not sure i want to spend that $450 right now.....

Those pics have been circulating for a while. I wrote them off as photoshop! WOW thats truly amazing! The "baby ls" was posted here in a different section. Very cool to know that they are a bi-product of the v12!!!

Shouldn't be. Might have to sit in the hatch during the pulls though. Serious.

420rwhp

IMO, a twin screw blower in a sub 3000 # car is pointless. There is almost no way to make something with that much torque hook up. (without a back half and slicks)

You will need to quit your job you have now, just so you'll have time to keep your engine bay clean.

90% sure they go on either side of the strut tube housing, around the "spindle pin" or bolt that you used to replace it. They're so you can space the wheel back if you want. Be careful how far you go though, because I'm running into issues with the tires kissing the flares. I moved mine back about an inch though.......

Smoke em if you got em?

Litman - NICE! That makes for a real clean setup.

Obviously you've never driven a company vehicle.

In my case, yes they did supply all the CV's. You just send them a seal to seal measurement at ride height, and they do the rest. You inspired me to finally do a parts list. I'll upload it ASAP