skirkland1980

UPDATE: This does work. My speedo is still a little off but I should be able to get it closer with different speedo gears. This mod will not effect the odometer.

The silicone didn't hold so I'm trying jb weld to modify the trigger wheel. It shouldn't be raining tomorrow so I should be able to test it then.

The car is a 1983 280ZX turbo with a digital speedo. It has a 700r4 transmission. I may have found a way to have a fairly accurate speedo that should reach 130+ mph. The first thing I had to do was make the 280zx speedo cable fit the 700r4. That was simple. I just had to grind the cable to a square on the end. Now my speedo reads 85 mph at about 65 mph. So I disassembled a spare gauge cluster that I have. I removed the odometer assembly from the cluster. I removed 5 screws, removed the optical sensor and exposed the trigger wheel (pictured). If I switch the speedo to read km/h, when the speedo reads 85 mph It will then read 137 km/h. I need to slow the speedometer down by about 50% to get a semi correct reading. So if I divide 137 by 2= 68.5. To slow the speedo down by 1/2: If you look at the trigger wheel there are 24 slots. I just filled 1/2 the slots with silicone and reassembled. This is still pending to be functional. I will update once the modified speedo is installed. What do you all think? Should it work?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110175-super-easy-cs130-install/?hl=monaco

I think the new upgrade is the 1991 dodge monaco alternator. I'm not 100% sure but you may want to check it out.

I have coil + wired to a fuse and relay and - going straight to pin 36.

Does water actually rotate the opposite direction in the southern hemisphere? Does that have an effect on engines?

The one I hate the most is "it wasn't doing this before you worked on itâ€.

We had a 1993 600sl at our used car lot. It was a decent car. There was a loud tapping noise in the engine that would come and go. The hydraulic suspension didn't work and the car was super slow. It was beautiful and had 90k miles on it.

This just happened to me. A guy brought me a junk yard engine to install and a week later it stalled on him. He called and wanted me to check it out and hung up on me when I told him it would be $65 to check it out.

Did you do the ohm checks from igbtin to the bip373, bip to ground and bip to coil neg. If all ohms good and your getting an rpm signal then you should be getting spark. You can try appying 12v to coil + and momentarily ground coil - and you should get spark. Also make sure you have a good strong 12v supply to the coil while cranking.

Congrats, sounds nice. You can take the belt off and run it to find the noise...

Nevermind about required fuel. I looked at mine and it says the same.

Your ignition options look ok. You may try trigger angle of 60. You need to set required fuel. Also I use simultaneous injector firing with 1 squirt. Your cranking dwell should be about 6 and about 3 max running. There may be more damage to your board. It's several layers thick from what I've read.

I used a pedal from a different car but you could just cut the top off the z pedal and weld on a different one. The torque converter thing refers to using a v6 converter behind a v8. Since v6s make less torque than a v8 the v6 converter will stall more when behind a v8.

I have actually used the comp 292 cam in my camaro. I still have it actually. It has a nice lopey sound and makes good power. Power brakes will still work. I would use it on the street no problem. Bump your rev limiter to 6500 and shift at 6k if you like going fast. My comp ratio was 9.5:1.

Oh, ok.

2"

I had this same problem. I'm not sure where you used jb weld. I used mig weld.

If it's a turbo distributor it's not adjustable by much. Put the engine on tdc #1 and install the oil pump, shaft and distributor so that the rotor points straight ahead. Or set it at about 15* and point to #1 cap terminal.

Can you take a picture of the front and back of the board and upload your msq file?

I think you forgot your bearings at the dump...

Read, read and read more. Here's a good start. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm

I like the MS2 v 3.0. You can assemble the board yourself or buy one already assembled. You need a harness, a fuse panel, and a few relays and some basic electrical skills. Also need a laptop, usb/serial cable with tunerstudio downloaded. Plan on spending around $800 roughly on parts to get started. Look in the megasquirt section of this forum.

It depends on your exhaust air ratio. I run mine at the stock #2 mark I use a .82ar turbo. Boost hits hard about 4k.