skirkland1980

I'm thinking you may have to pull the front cover. I'm not sure if the oil thrower will come past the seal.

I'm not real sure I've never had to pull one. Is it damaged?

A part search says they're both the same muffler and pre muffler pipe.

That exploded view should help...and no, the dizzy needs to be locked.

You should only need a roll pin punch and a phillips screw driver if memory serves.

I may be able to answer other 4L60E questions for you but if I'm not available you can go to the Impala SS forums and look around. A lot of good tranny info there. You can also contact Dana at Probuilt Automatics. He's super knowledgeable and a heck of a guy.

I don't know of a link but you will have to completely disassemble the distributor. Once you're in there you should see how the mechanism works and figure a way to lock it. Maybe the fsm shows this?

I'm not running the same thing as you are but I eliminated my stock solid linkage and went with a cable. I used a pedal from a different car and made it work using a welder and cut-off wheel. With the 4L60E in 1995 gm started using a pulse with modulated torque converter lockup apply for a less noticeable tcc apply. This required the use of torque converter with a better lockup friction plate due to excessive head generated when the torque converter locks. There is a mod that I do which involves disconnecting the pwm tcc solenoid and also shifting the valve and staking it in place. This completely disables the pwm tcc apply, The torque converter will still lock but it will be firm and noticeable. With that said, whichever converter you use, make sure it's a 1995 or newer converter (if your tranny is) or do the mod. I don't know what converter to recommend other than an aftermarket one.

One guy said he used jb weld. I have a small mig welder so that's what I used.

Depends if you want ms to control ignition timing. If so one of the turbo dizzys will be easier to set up. With the na dizzy you would need to lock the advance mechanisms.

One good thing is, since your turbo will be a few inches forward, you will have a lot better angle on your downpipe.

I'm not sure what you're asking about timing. Are you asking how to get an rpm signal to megasquirt?

Yes, the car has a wideband. Are you saying I shouldn't worry about the black covering 80% of the porcelain? It may look like a shadow in the picture but it's black soot.

I guess I could do a compression test. Maybe my head gasket is pushing out again...But my plugs dont show signs of detonation...? Could it be time for a metal head gasket?

Yes, but that would be a case of very rich. If you look at the porcelain, 4 of the plugs are white, 2 of them the porcelain is black almost all the way to the tip.

I pulled the BPR7ES plugs in my L28 turbo today and I noticed 2 plugs appeared rich. I'm not really sure what's going on. These plugs have about 1000 miles on them and probably 20 eighth mile passes. I gapped them to.....030" or about .035"...I don't quite remember (6 months ago). The car runs great, no misfires, especially under boost (15 psi). I'm just not quite sure why only 2 plugs look like this, #2 & #6 Which I've noticed problems before with deformed head gaskets on those cylinders. Any ideas? Thanks.

The easiest way to run MS in my opinion is to run a pre-assembled MS with a late non-turbo distributor.

A lot depends on your budget. BOVs and intercoolers get expensive. As for a wideband I recommend the Autometer unit. A lot of folks have had success with the Innovate products but I personally will not recommend them since I got 2 bad units. Also what engine management are you using? If using a maf or afm you shouldn't vent to atmosphere.

If mine was 180 off my #6 spark plug wire wouldn't reach.

Yes, they were felpro also. Part number on the box is SS72686.

What valve stem seals are you using? I had s similar problem with a fresh rebuild. Turned out to be the stock style felpro valve stem seals leaking. It wouldn't smoke when cold unlike most valve stem seal leaks. I used the ford 2.9L V6 seals (the green ones) and fixed it.

1mm minimum.

Does this help? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Cardone-Reman-Distributor/1981-Nissan-Datsun-280ZX/_/N-ilkpiZ9n80u?itemIdentifier=770941_0_0_

Yes. I pulled out the worm gear so now the odometer does not work. I figured this mod was worth doing because is was completely free. The best way to do this, to keep the odometer accurate, is to adjust the speed of the speedo cable before the gauge cluster. For that you would need a reduction box. (about $80)

Even better news: Since my speedo was still too fast, I did some more calculations and it appears that 10 slots in the trigger wheel would be ideal. So...I made a 10 slot wheel from an Ace rewards card. Thanks for looking.