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I ended up building a SS system using a 16" x 4" round Magnaflow (resonator) and 14" oval Magnaflow in the rear. The header is an old school SS JanSpeed (from the UK). There is an O2 bung located in the collector where the twin pipes merge into one for tuning. The piping is 2" up to the resonator and then it opens to 2.5" out to the tip. The cost is way up there but it should outlast me being SS throughtout. I haven't finished the vent hose replacements yet so I haven't fired the engine up yet. The hope that the resonator will make the car livable for more than weekend runs.

I'll get some info together. BlueOvalZ should also be a contributor. He was my inspiration to build mine. There are many variables to choose from when building a set of CV axles. I'm adding some more pictures of the axles being installed. Ignore the surface rust on the adapters. That will be treated and painted a bit later. In order to use the forward mount anti sway bar I had to shorten the links and modify the chassis brackets to move the bar forward about .5". It is as close as it will get in these pictures with the car on jack stands and the suspension in full droop.

WooHoo! I finally got everything together and assemblied the CV axles! It took ages to get the proper CV flanges and boots. The adapters are bolted to the stub axle and diff flanges. A test fit prior to assembly went too smoothly to believe. These axles can be installed and removed without having to disassemble any parts. One step closer to putting the Z back on the road!

If you pull the parts book at the auto parts store (usually stuck behind the counter because the employee's only know what's in the computer) you can typically find the info you're looking for. The chassis parts book often list ball joints and tierods by dimensions/pn's in the back pages. It is a pain but at least it circumvents the usual no-nothings behind the counter. Just ask to see the books. Tell them why so they don't insist on trying to find it in the "computer". Gawd, I wish we still had real auto parts stores...

Flex-a-lite usually list their fans by horsepower rating. You'll need to install the largest fan you can with room to work around it. Pusher types can be used where space is limited but a puller definately works much better. When restricted by size (directly associated with cfm) you need to pay close attention to shroud design. A good shroud will aid greatly in overcoming a smaller fan. Us a water wetter in the coolant too. It will help with heat transfer.

Is the choke stuck closed? Sounds silly but I've seen it before.

It may be left threaded. Check to see which way the damper turns. The bolt will typically loosen in the opposite direction.You'll need to confirm with a local dealer service. I've had to use an impact socket and heavy breaker bar lodged into the chassis and bumped the engine starter to break some crankshaft bolts loose.

A rotation of tires will tell you whether the problem is the hub assembly or the tire/rim.

Another note.... you can buy directly from http://www.automec.co.uk and save a lot over http://www.fedhillusa.com. The cupronickel 3/16 in a 25 foot roll is $38.00 to $44.00 (shipping included standard post) depending on the currency conversion at the time of order from automec vs. $66.00 plus shipping from fedhillusa. It's worth the extra time to ship for my pocket. I spend enough money foolishly.

It typically comes in 25 foot rolls. That should easily do your Z. 1/2 inch is huge for all but the most insane engines. Automec does make a selection of diameters including 1/2 inch. Go to http://www.automec.co.uk.

I'll make one suggestion...follow it. Get yourself some Automec cupronickel brake line. It is hands down the best you can run. It forms easy, doesn't rust and is a heck of a lot easier to work with than SS. Buy it online. Just do a search for Automec. The typical terned brake line found in the auto parts stores is inferior in every way. I only use this material in any vehicle I plumb whether on or off road. You will not be disappointed!

Batch fire is simple and straight forward. The primary reason for sequential is to reduce emissions. It is more complex but allowed the manufacturers to meet the increasing EPA requirements. The side benefits are as noted by Dan.

Get a wiring diagram. If all of these lights are coming on simultaniously then there is something in common feeding all of them. I know that sounds over simplified but it follows logical analytical troubleshooting. Maybe it is as simple as loose or shorted wire in the dash harness. If it is a short be glad it is going through a load (the lights) and not straight to ground. Maybe there's a problem with the tach that's causing this??? I'm assuming the car runs fine since you've not mentioned any other problems.

In reality these should fit by my thoughts. I quick lift with the engine hoist will answer this question. Ram's horn manifolds were typically found on Corvettes. Their design placed high on the head with the downpipes tight and centered. I think most people use headers because the other stock manifolds jut out and down too far. Headers also give that performance look. The upside to cast manifolds is far less bell ringing and underhood heat. The difference in power is not significant unless the headers are very well designed and the engine is quite modded IMHO. Try to fit them and tell us how it worked.

I can be so goofy sometimes. Maybe I should concentrate on work instead of Z's...

This link over to zhome may answer all of your questions about wiring. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

I forgot about the internal vs external. Thanks for the correction. I still believe you pointed out the problem. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen this but it was usually on GM products.

If memory serves me the Hitachi has a T shaped plug for the F and N leads. The leg of the T is F (field) and the top of the T is N (sensor). The N lead is used to monitor voltage and should go to the fuse block 12+ input. The reason is it provides a better indication of voltage drop in the system here. Many will wire it straight to the alternator output. This works but it doesn't give an accurate indication of voltage drop so charging is not ideal. The F lead goes to a switched (ignition) 12+ source. If you've got this backwards the battery will drain through the alternator with the engine off. It will charge properly however because you are still providing the required 12+ when running. I think zcarnut has it dead-on. If you have 12+ at the F lead when turned off you've found your problem. From your description it sure sounds so. Your alarm should be tied into a constant 12+ source for full time operation. The current draw will be minimal.

As the advance plate would be fixed I can't see failure of the plastic piece holding the bearings. The screw I described would thread through both plates. The threads would be cut in one pass so the screw would pass through both easily and stopped when the head contacted the plate. No pressure would be applied pushing or pulling the plates. A drop of paint or glue would hold the screw in place. With no measurable force being applied sideways the plates should remain fixed indefinately. Two screws could be used should it prove neccessary. If your dizzy is damaged then the epoxy might be the only solution.

After much looking and thinking I'm leaning towards a Magnaflow ss resonator and ss muffler. If only for the lifetime warranty. The only problem I dealing with now is fitting the 14" resonator in the system. Once I have a couple of ss pieces swagged and fitted in place will I know if I can accomodate it. If not, I'm probably be using a Vibrant 12" resonator even though their warranty is only 2 years for stainless! In the end I'm hoping the resonator will cut the overall Decibels by 3 or more. For those not in the know, it takes 3 db's for the human ear to hear a change in volume. A 3 db drop would be significant and hopefully reduce interior resonance too.

The biggest headache of headers is how so many hang down below the bellypan. Damage like we see here is commonplace especially on lowered cars. In most situations I'm guessing it is a compromise to gain better flow. I'll post pictures of my Janspeed 3-2-1 header installed when I shoot some tonight. It is tucked up well and sits higher than the bottom of the oilpan, follows the curve of the frame rails and ends centered in the tunnel level with the floor pans. You've got to love well thoughout and executed header desigh.

I'm rebuilding a 280zx dizzy for my triple carbed L24. Actually, the distributor is in excellent condition overall. There are no broken or heavily worn parts. I intend to disable the vacuum advance by drilling a small hole through the two plates, tapping and installing a small machine screw to keep them fixed to each other. I am thinking I could extend the hole already there for the dashpot arm but I don't have the part in front of me to confirm that. The reasoning is I can easily go back to a vac advance if needed for another application. A simple aluminum plug will be machined to fill the hole where the dashpot would reside. It will make things a little cleaner visually.

I'll shoot some photos of the underpinnings so you can see how tight it fits. I've run Flowmasters (delta) on two different vehicles and they were not much different than open exhaust (reminded me of reversed cherry bombs). The biggest problem we have is limited length of the muffler. If we only had another 6"-10" to work with. I'm guessing a resonator will be needed to subdue the overall DB's and drone.

If anyone has interest in a Rover engine I have one sitting in the garage. It's a complete 3.9 from a 93 Range Rover. Just swap out the intake for carburation and you're on your way to V8 power. With a '00 LS1, '96 Vortec 4.3, '81 LD28, '71 L24 and '81 L28 turbo engine I've got enough to work with right now.

Here's the Janspeed. It is used so don't get worked up over the darkened finish. I just installed it this past Monday. It fit perfect and actually allowed for easy access to the inner stud nuts on cylinder #1 and #6. The long tube collector fits perfect as well. It passes the tranny and dumps dead center in the tunnel and flush with the floor pans. There's even a bracket to attach an additional hanger off the bellhousing for more support. When compared to the MSA 3-2-1 header I puller off it is hands down better. As for the Tanabe it is anything but cheap in quality or cost. I've seen the Magnaflow and heard one after the packing burnt out. They sound great if a bit loud and resonant heavily in an uninsulated Z (stock jute and carpet). They certainly have their application and I've used similar straight thru designs in the past. I've been there with two custom Chevy trucks (V8 and L6), four Camaros from 67 to 73 (SB and BB), 71 442, 71 Land Rover (96 Vortec V6) and several other street machines of various engine displacements. I've run reversed cherry bombs to Flowmasters and heard many more so I know very well what sounds good and what grates on the nerves over time, at least to me. Again, exhaust tones and tolerance are very subjective. To each his own. I simply was asking if anyone had heard one in a S30. I haven't made any choice except it needs to be stainless. Rebuilding a custom exhaust rotted due to mild steel construction sucks. I do build my own exhaust because quality counts and there are no mandrel benders in my area. I'll be looking into the other lines as well. Thanks for the input.