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Yep, the brackets need to go. I agree that the driver's side arrangement is less than desired. My intention is to slip a piece of split vacuum line over that portion of brake flex line that would contact the body. A couple of small ties wraps should keep it fixed. Some simple bracket could be incorporated to support the DS flex line near the body too.

I read more posts than I cared to. Exhaust tones are very subjective. I like the deep throaty sound but hate the tooth loosening drones. Most straight piped mufflers are suited only for the young or track. Without installing acoustic materials in our old Z's they all reverberate like soup cans with tires. As a daily driver, I lean towards compromise between comfort and performance. Most people want that too only it takes a bit of experience to understand it. That is why many of us have installed open exhaust only to be disappointed if not down right frustrated at the end results and swapped it out looking for our ideal sound. To the point, I had a Tanabe Medallion installed in a 94 Accord. The sound was rich and deep. It had none of the shrill chainsaw rasp typical of most ricer mufflers. The interior noise did increase but the droning was tolerable. I've seen that a few late model Z's have a Tanabe exhaust installed and the owners seem happy. Has anyone knowledge of a S30 owner running a Tanabe setup? I actually believe it would be fine muffler for the L6 in any displacement. The downside is the cost to find out! I'll have about seven hundred in mine before the muffler is purchased! Crazy as it sounds it isn't hard to get there. Here's my roster... Janspeed 3-2-1 stainless steel header (old school from the UK and it is a piece of artwork) with 2" collector, 2" to 2.5" 304 S/S expander cone, 2.5" 304 S/S V-clamp flange kit and 2.5" 304 S/S mandrel-bent custom fitted piping. No muffler as of yet... but considering a Tuner Hyper Medallion with removable baffle (when I want that extra rummmpppfff). All parts except the headers were purchased from Verocious Motorsports in DE. I looked at plenty of S/S component suppliers and VM was consistantly less expensive.

I have this setup in my 240Z. All is hooked up and working fine except the E-brake. When engaged, the driver's side will lock up tight but the passenger side continues to rotate. Both sides are pulling down as expected. I'm guessing the problem is the adjustment since I ran both sides down for the new pad install. Is adjusting the PS piston outward the answer? Before I jump into this does anyone have knowledge and resolution of the problem? Thanks!

I have three electronic dizzys. One is for the 280zx turbo using CAS. The other two are NA versions. One has the E12-92 module with the additional contacts off the side. The last has what appears to be a aftermarket module with no identifiers. It does not have the additional contacts on the side though. My question is how many modules are there for these L6 engines? Is it correct in assuming the unmarked modules is the desired e12-80? Is upgrading my present 240Z dizzy (with the Allison XR-700 system) worth it or am I wasting time? There is no interest in going much beyond this as I hope to build a stroker in the near future and use my SDS to control ignition and fuel.

Age/UV has an impact on damper condition. The bigger issues are high rpm's, damage from incorrect removal/installation or oil saturation due to a leaky front seal. My comment about the 'red' locktite was regarding the difficulty of removal. Heat certainly helps to break the bond but it also affects the front seal and damper rubber too.

If the motor was running fine then the outer ring has not likely rotated due to separation. I'd mark the hub and the outer ring with a center punch as a reference should things move later on. If the hub fits snuggly on the crank then I'd be reluctant to use locktite. If you do then only use green or blue...not the red!

These diff flanges are found in the early eighties 720 4x4. That front diff is a R180A using the bolt-in flange with the 6 bolt (tulip CV) pattern. Of course, it allows the use of early diffs with modern CV joints.

Well, I'm off to the machine shop in the morning to get these EMPI axles cut to length and grooved for circlips. Shown is nearly everything needed. The R180 6 bolt flanges are already under the car. Shown are the adapters (black oxided), 930 CV joints, backside flanges (to hold in the grease), '78 930 CV outer flanges, and hardware. The axles are 396.875mm long. They will be shortened to approximately 355.4mm. The CV boots and gaskets are on their way to the house. I'm so close to driving this car again!

I can only speak for the local dealer. I was in there buying some bits for my Land Rover hybrid and picked one up for it.

That sounds great. It wouldn't pass inspection in VA because the pipe has to exit 10" past the door seam/window (by code) although one might get away with it. I had side pipes (reversed cherry bombs) on a '66 Chevy truck running a modified 250 L6. Sounded awesome on and off idle but the droning on highway would give me one hell of a headache. I ended up using dynamax mufflers to quiet it down. It would still whip most V8 trucks in the quarter.

It could also be attributed to the oil drain passages being restricted. Excess oil in the valvetrain area getting sucked past worn valve guides. If you're seeping oil at the exhaust manifold it can't be good no matter the reason. If it were a turbo I'd think the seals in the turbo were shot and oil was being forced into the intake. On that note, oil could be finding it's way into the intake through the PCV system or it could be tranny fluid being sucked past a bad modulator valve if the truck is an automatic.

I've seen that same headlight warning buzzer at the chevy dealer for about half that price.

A course surface provides more surface area and should aid in temperature dissipation. Polishing can't do much to help IMHO but it looks pretty. In the old days I painted nearly everything black under the hood and abhorred chrome because it would reflect heat back into the engine...believe it or not. Polishing the runners could help in some measurable way to improve air flow but only in a FI situation. Port matching is always a good idea. With carbs you want to keep the rough interior surface to aid turbulance whichs prevents fuel drop out against the runner walls. Only vapor burns and raw gas will wash the cylinder walls, increase emissions, etc.

Ken Jones has done a SC pushing 12+ psi. I am also starting a SC project. I purchased a M62 fourth generation (with bypass valve) and plan on a 2:1 pulley ratio. That should provide about 5+ psi. In my high compression L24 it should provide about 35-40% power increase. I'll be using SDS for fuel and ignition needs. As for the type of blower the following is my understanding. A roots style is really good up to about 6 psi before heat related issues become a serious issue. Over 6 psi you should consider a screw-type blower. High compression will limit your forced induction due to heat, octane, etc. You can push those limits using timing retard, etc., but you also lose power in doing so. Lower compression will accept more boost just like turbocharging. Heat is always an issue. Centrifigal chargers have a poor record for longivity and some companies like PSE won't even rebuild them. As for the SC choice I'd stick with a generic model over an early Thunderbird or Mercedes unit as it should be easier to intergrate. I am considering mounting the SC on the passenger side of the block feeding through an IC and into a throttle bodied FI intake. This is all in the idea stage for now. http://www.magnusonproducts.com/mp62.htm

There is a magnetic clutch on the front of the compressor. If it isn't energized you are only seeing the clutch freewheeling and assuming the compressor is good. You need to supply 12v to the power lead off the compressor clutch to test for proper operation of the clutch and compressor. It can be done with a short wire from the battery to the compressor clutch power lead. Just leave the car idling, connect one end of the wire to the clutch power lead and touch the other end to the battery B+. If the compressor is frozen then the belt will squeal like hell and scare the crap out of you. Otherwise, the engine will slightly load down from the compressor as expected. Don't leave the wire on any longer than needed to test the compressor since your freon is apparently low.

I agree that many parts can be reused including the spindle pins. It is unlikely that you'll ever do this job again once considering how far out 30 years is. Pins and the cross bolts are cheap though. If you've gone this far why not finish the job right? I'd clean up the holes with a reamer or scotchbrite, lude them liberally with a good copper based antiseize, and install new hardware. The BIGGEST thing, as mentioned before, is to ensure the cross bolt and spindle pin are aligned PROPERLY. Don't use force to drive that bolt in. That is most likely why you've had trouble pulling the pin. Lightly tap the bolt in AND only tighten until the lock washer flattens. Better yet use a nylock nut and flat washer tightening until just snug. That bolt only has to prevent the pin from rotating so it doesn't take measurable torque. If it ever needs to be disassembled it will come apart much easier for you or the next owner.

I've lived here all my life. It is no worse than any other city in the area. Every place has its bad neighborhoods....Chesapeake included! The only real downside to this area is the piss poor school system. That is only due to the large number of single breeder families with no interest in their child's education other than how to fill out the next "freebie" form at social services. That and this "no child left behind" bullshit. I'm going to stop now because I'll just get on a rant! There are several very nice and desireable areas to live in Portsmouth though. Lastly, I'm sure the cost of real estate is cheaper here but you won't find much other than starter homes under $200,000 in a decent neighborhood. The last two years have shown a ridiculous jump in property values. Welcome!!!!!!!!!!!

Several good points have been made here. I use the wire cleaner/lubricators between the spool and drive too. These do make a difference. You can buy them in a package at the welding supply to change out over time. The only thing no one mentioned was checking to be sure you have a really good ground. It is even more important on a low amperage welder where attempting good penetration is difficult in thicker materials. Also try to bevel the areas of weld for a deeper and thicker weld bead. As for these brackets I'd say they should hold up. If you break one of these welds you probably have bigger issues to deal with! lastly, I hate flux core wire and would only use it in windy conditions with no alternatives. Multiple passes using solid wire will get this kind of job done where needed. Slower wire speed with max heat and pooling the weld in small circles (much like tig welding) can give you better penetration with a low amperage welder.

I have a workmate offering a free 200SX. It is a 5 speed and in questionable condition overall. Is this worth grabbing for parts? Which parts?

So all we know is we need to experiment, spoilers and generators. The best would be some half-*** windtunnel to test it with some smoke. Maybe a garage with both ends open and a couple of really large floor fans would do? The seat of the pants summation isn't going to work. We all know that if we want it to work we will perceive it did so until proven wrong.

Airplane wing... If you consider the shape of the car it resembles an airplane wing. The air travels faster across the top of the car trying to meet the air passing below at the same time. This higher velocity causes the lift associated with high speed. A large spoiler or wing would help to counter this effect at high speed reducing lift and possibly adding downforce. This has nothing to do with the original focus of reducing fumes being pulled into the vehicle because of the strong vortex's created immediately behind the car by poor design. Reducing the air speed off the back of the car by detaching that high speed air further up the hatch would reduce those vortex's and possibly locate then further out from the rear. It should also reduce the induced lift at speed. I know many here are track racing at high speed where stability is a critical factor. I suspect that the fumes are an annoyance but tolerated in this instance. Others like myself are using our Z's for spirited driving on the road and would simply like to enjoy a reduction in fumigation.

I own a 175 (220V) and it is a great machine for the price. All metal drive assembly is better than plastic too. I work in a naval shipyard and we use 95% Miller products as do many production shops I know of. I owned a Econotig and it really isn't worth the money. Spend extra and buy a real tig like a 250 model. Oh yeah, drop the extra hundred for an autoshade shield. It is one of the best investments I've ever made!

I was at the P-N-P this Sunday and happened upon an early VW Sirocco. It had a bolt-on spoiler. It looks remarkably close to the BRE spoiler across the main section. I pulled it in hopes of using the basic profile as a mold for a smaller top-of-hatch spoiler. I've never tried to produce anything in fiberglass let alone a plug. Anyone in the SE corner of Va interested in assisting with this? By the way, I did set it up on the top (it's a bit too long it it's present shape) to get an idea of the look. IMO it could actually look like it belongs there with the rear BRE in place. If it works to reduce fumes then all the better! One more project I don't have time for!

I've always used BG 44K cleaner. It works wonders cleaning up deposits. The next comparable product is the GM injected engine cleaner. I've never failed to see start up, idle quality and overall performance not improve with these products unless the engine was junk.

The louvers may cause some disruption but nothing compared to a real spoiler. I have the rear deck spoiler and still deal with the fumes. That is not the only problem with my car (other issues are being addressed). I'm guessing that others here have performed all of the other services such as weatherstriping, gaskets, silicone and hoses but still ahve fumes (hopefully to a lesser extent). The top spoiler may not be the end-all but it would be nice if it made a very distinct difference.