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Come on...look in the PINNED threads in 'drivetrain' forum. There's a 'darn near' complete history of the diffs we are using in these cars.

If you've checked all you claim then it sounds like the distributor is failing you at the applicable cylinders. I'd move all of the plug wires over one position on the cap and reset the timing. If it is the distributor you should see failing on different cylinders depending on which way you move the wires. Could be a tooth or two broken inside the distributor.

It doesn't sound good to me. The driveshaft definately needs to be shortened though. "Trying to get everything back together by friday, as I plan on breaking into the 10's this weekend at the dragstrip." From your description it sounds like you just might be breaking something this weekend even if it's not a 10 second run.

I'm thinking I used 4" gauges for the tach/speedo. These and the smaller gauges are not a direct fit. You'll have to figure out how you want to mount them. My approach worked very well for me. The turn signal/high beam/brake lights are in a pod where the cigarette lighter sat in the dash.

Dowel pins have nothing to do with stength. They are there for alignment. If the clutch pack is just a little out of alignment you will experience a lot of vibration. Something will eventually give and things will come apart.

I wanted to post this in the annoucements section but it wouldn't let me... The Tidewater Z Car Club will hold its 14th Annual Car Show inside Hampton Roads Convention Center, 1610 Coliseum Dr., Hampton, VA 23666 on May 1, 2010. This show is opened to all and any year Datsun, Nissan and Infiniti G35 and G37 series vehicle regardless of age or condition! There will be many trophies, door prizes and more. Car setup to be performed between 8 am and 11:30 am. First 100 entries to received a goodie bag. This will be a People’s Choice Car Show. Judging will be done by participants and spectators. Judging will be between noon and 3:30 pm with awards ceremony at 4 pm. Open Free to the public/spectators. Go to www.tzccva.org to get your registration form.

That faulty connection may have caused the bucking which caused that connection to fail fully.

You've connected the relay correct by what you've provided. There is no reason it shouldn't work. You say you've checked the voltages from the battery to the relay socket, the voltage at the starter lead when the key is in the start position, and have voltage on the #87 when the key is in the start position? Is the lead broken between the relay socket and the solenoid? Why are you load relaying the starter solenoid anyway? The two wires off the switch are probably for the 'key in ignition' warning buzzer when the door opens.

I'd get the title number and have it run against the DMV records to see what they have recorded. It may not be an issue at all because it sounds like the insurance company just wrote it off for their records. Getting a 'salvaged titled' car back on the road legally can be a pain.

I did the Porsche 930 CV conversion some time back. BlueovalZ was the originator, I believe. I've since upgraded to a R200 3.90:1 w/ a Quaife diff. The driver's side shaft had to be shortened 3/4" and the diff side CV adapters were welded to the R200 flanges. These things are brutal. I believe the 930 CV is rated a something like 600 hp. It is not a cheap conversion but the end results is well worth the cost. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/41590-prosche-930-cv-adapters-completed/page__p__387042__hl__930%20cv__fromsearch__1entry387042

Do you know the offset of this hub? I'm assuming it is a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern?

Yeah, I can see the potential. In my case the locking pins have always been there. Assuming that the hole is ovel should I just find a replacement or have this housing sleeved and reamed? I'm leaning towards the machine work because another housing is likely to be seized (PITA). I'll take photos when I break it down. The only reason I'm hesitating is I want to convert over to 5 lug, new wheels/tires and properly install ZG flares at the same time. There are so many Z events coming in the next few months including Z Days, a couple of shows and ZCon. I may wait until the end of summer before I pursue it.

My 240Z was starting to get difficult to handle on road. It would track where it wanted too and made for some interesting moments of panic. I had rebuilt the whole suspension a few years back. This new problem led me to think it was rack related. I replaced the rubber rack bushings with urethane and checked for wear in the rack too. It seemed to make a slight difference but not what I hoped for. We put it up an a lift to give things a better look over. Nothing was obvously a problem. That's when we started greasing the tierods and balljoints. Whoa, the balljoints actually moved a lot. They were heavily worn! These are TRW units with only about 3000 miles max on them! I was shocked. They were replaced and made for a huge improvement in handling. Moving on... While under the car we also looked over the rear due to some minor clunking noises. The mustache bar nuts were a tad loose but everything else looked fine until...my friend grabbed the passenger side wheel to check for play. There was lots of play! At first we thought the nut had backed off the axle enough to cause this (which is still a probability). What caught my buddie's eye was movement at the LCA to strut housing at the back bushing. There is several thousands of play between the LCA and housing at the rear bushing only. That makes for a lot of movement of the tire. These are new bushings also replaced about 3k miles ago. My friend seems to think the spindle pin bole hole is worn allowing the pin to actually move in the strut housing. I'm hoping it's a failed bushing. My logic is I can't see how the spindle pin can be bowed like that with only hand pressure at the tire. It has to be torn down to resolve but I wondering if anyone has seen wear like that in a housing. Oh yeah, the pins were also replaced and I don't recall any kind of whallowing like that in the housing during re-assembly.

It's been a few years since I did this upgrade on my 71. As I recall, the extended hardline is needed to allow full droop of the rear suspension without stressing the flex line. I'll have to climb under the car to take another look to be sure.

Were the brakes working before? Do you have to pump the pedal to stop? Are you losing brake fluid? Did you modify the brake system? A failed booster usually means that the pedal is harder to push. It's difficult to evaluate without more info.

It's the neighbor's cat.

Add details about the brakes and backfiring. Is the check valve for the booster in backwards? Did the brakes work before? If not, did you block off the booster vecuum hose to prevent a potential leak (assuming the booster might be bad)? Are the SU's backfiring on excel or decel? We are talking about a 280X 2+2 (fuel injected)? Did you install the SU's or were they already there? Is there oil in the dampers? Is the linkage hanging up? As you can see, there are a lot of questions to ask before giving any viable answers. Moving on. The brake parts can be found at the local parts store or online assuming you really need them. The wipers on these cars are notorious for being slow even when working correctly. Yours are likely fighting 30 year old grease and neglected pivot points. A good cleaning and lubrication would go a long way to improve them.

The bottom line is buy quality. Do NOT buy the cheap weld equipment sold at Horrible freight or Northern tools. Even a good welder would have a hard time trying to weld with these poor products. Look for Lincoln, Miller (my first choice), ESAB or equivalent. Any of these will allow for adding the gas shielding. CL is a great starting point and sometimes a good deal can be found. I choose Miller because it is the primary equipment used at my place of work (a naval shipyard). My first Miller 110v 'cricket' lasted ten long years before finally dying. I replaced it with a 220v Miller unit. That welder is like a sewing machine. The 220v makes a LOT of difference. To make it usable I installed a 220v service in the garage. I also made a 40ft HEAVY extension cable to allow me flexibilty to move the welder most anywhere I need for use.

There are so many good products out there to reduce heat damage. One item is http://www.fuelsafe.com/store/parts-accessories/heat-safe.html which is added to the surface of items you want to protect. Another supplier is http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/p_heat_shield_mat.php which has a large variety of products. I've used header wrap on a DD and was disappointed. Actually, it isn't designed or intended for such a use. In my case, the tri-y header retained so much heat that it was glowing bright red and hurting more than helping. I know that some will instantly say the air/fuel was off but not in this case (2.5 four cylinder w/ single Weber downdraft tuned with an exhaust sniffer). Headers create a lot more underhood heat than the cast manifolds. In most cases the latter is fully functional and quieter but doesn't have the visual allure of a header setup. I'm using stock C2 headers on the LS1 in my 71 Land Rover. The fit and quality are hard to beat at any price. Considering that a header adds minimal hp/tq gains in most street applications I prefer to use the factory manifold(s) when I can. Getting the heat out of the bay should be the focus by proper venting. I opt to use shielding on the components I want to protect rather than an exhaust wrap but that's just me. Obviously, the track is a different environment where wrapping has it's advantages and the cars have an opportunity to cool down after a spirited run in most cases. Take all of this with a grain of salt. What the hell do I know?

Still gotta stuck bolt? If you don't have the radiator pulled and an impact gun there is another solution. Place a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the bolt head. Add a length of heavy pipe to the breaker bar (if the breaker bar is long enough) so the pipe rest on the driver's side frame rail. With gloves, hold on to this setup and have someone 'bump' the starter (avoid pinch points!). Just 'bump' the starter as you're not trying to start the car! That should break the bolt free. You'll need to use a puller to remove the damper properly. I'm all for getting the radiator out of the way so you can work freely and not worry about punching a hole.

I had the same issues with my R/T mount on a 11/70 240Z. I had to cut off the interfering flanges, redrill the urethane mounting hole and notch the upper PS corner to clear the fuel and brake lines. It was worth the work though!

http://www.vintagewheelsus.com/products2.php These six spokes are going onto my 240Z when I've completed the 5 bolt mods. A set runs about $2000 with the adapters. Throw tires in there and it's about $3000 total. Stupid money but I can get the wheel I want with the offset I want to fit a ZG flare setup. CCW's and Boze Wheels are comparable in price and still show the lug nuts. Everything else seems to be a compromise. With thousands already invested what's another $3000?

I run a 930 CV setup in my 240Z but it was designed by me and machined locally. My cost was about $1000 complete. The difference is I use Porsche boots/retainers instead of the pieces Wolf uses. The design is basically the same otherwise. It is a great conversion! I'd never consider going back to an u-joint halfshaft. I'm waiting on some custom stub axle flanges (for my 5-bolt stub axles) to be finished so I can eliminate the outer CV adapter now. That will lengthen the halfshaft about 3/4".

Post a few pictures of your sender mount installed on the engine.

Give Courtesy Nissan in Texas a call about their price for these pistons. You'll likely save a good chunk of money even with shipping cost. http://www.courtesyparts.com