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Yeah. Burns has nice stuff but the cost factor is not justifiable in the majority of instances.

www.verociousmotorsports.com has 304 material. It's where I purchase my S/S for exhaust systems. I usually get Magnaflow resonators and mufflers from a local shop for very good prices.

I'm 98% done with a stroker project. Mine is still just a hair over 2.8L. There's thousands in parts/labor for the long block alone. I won't even talk about the other costs (supercharger/aftercooler/custom plenum/brackets/pulleys/standalone EFI/hardware/coatings/hoses/etc). Mine went in a different direction than most here. None the less, it is an expensive project to net .2 to .3 additional cubic liters. There is extensive information on this forum documenting the parts and steps. There is more than one way to build a stroker or skin a cat. I'd personally suggest rebuilding the L28 to stronger specs unless you're intent on the project and have a LOT of money to throw at it.

Obviously, the dog couldn't find a neighbor's dog's turd or a dead rotting carcass to roll in. WTF is it with dogs and stuff that stinks to high heaven???

Interesting. The photo I attached is a 82-83 Nissan BW NWC T5. If your trans doesn't look like that then it isn't a BW NWC T5. Can you post a picture of yours? We'd all like to see it.

I decided that I wanted to build a 2.8 L6 using a LD block and V07 crank and slap on a MP62 supercharger. A L6 just looks right under that long hood. However, After enough $$$ to buy two LSx engines I now question my sanity. That's a lie. I've been questioning my sanity for a long time. When it's completed I'll be happy but for half the cash I could've have a V8.

As a side note, I've always checked halfshaft u-joint play with the tires in a static position. Jack up the car and place tire ramps under the tires (duh). Once lowered back to a static ride height you can check for u-joint play. Like Jon said, U-joint play is difficult to detect (unless it is damn near destroyed). Also check the hardware on the mustache bar. I've experienced the diff nuts backing off and recently found a nut loose on the DS bushing on my newest project. It was causing an awful thumping as the diff twisted the bar up and down.

Much talk of it but nothing ever materialized.

Come on.... 5 lug hubs/rotors on an S30??? Never heard of such a thing! Have you tried typing 5 lug conversion into the search window?

The trans shown above is not a WC. It is the original Nissan/Borg-Warner NWC T5. The arrow points to the Reverse/OD lever pivot. The NWC uses a hex head while the WC uses a torx style rounded head. Post a picture of your transmission. I'm interested if it's an early or late 5 speed. Too bad you're 3000 miles away. I rebuild transmissions now and then and have even shipped to California. My builds usually run around $650. Gotta tell you that with a small investment in some special tools and a rebuild kit, you could do this yourself and save a bunch of money.

The WC T5 uses ATF. The overdrive syncro is brass. There is probably good reason to research what fluid you are using to be sure it isn't going to eat your yellow metal though.

Do you have a camera? Go take a few pictures of the housing and the internals and post them here. Your 5 speed could be a standard Nissan unit. It is probably a Borg-Warner NWC T5 since it was in a 82 Turbo car but the PO could have swapped it out. That transmission has a lot of webbing cast into the tailhousing and the shifter sits in a large rectangular casting at the rear of that tailhousing. Ont the driver's side of the main case there is a large hex head and a two-wire switch just below it (reverse lamps). Anyway, this would not be a WC T5. There are no fiber syncros or fiber caged bearings. The syncros are brass. The only plastic gears are the speedo drive and driven gear. This transmission is suppose to use gear lube, not ATF. It is possible that ATF caused problems due to a lack of lubrication BUT I have serious doubts that it did. The WC T5 uses ATF and rolls on a lot more bearings without a problem. It is the fine roller bearings of the mainshaft gears (and the fiber syncros) that requires the thinner ATF. Use of gear lube in a WC T5 will destroy it. Since you seem not to be inclined to rebuild it yourself then it looks like you'll have to bite the bullet and pay that shop. Do you have a receipt for the prior build? Does it state that ATF is required? You could have a small claims court option to get your money back! As a side note, it is possible to build a WC T5 using some of the older Nissan T5 parts but it is a good deal of effort and requires machine work on the tailhousing plus a bit more. It is highly unlikely that anyone attempted that conversion though.

Yeah, I hear ya. When the SDS controlled SC'd petrol LD28 is completed (along with the '71 Land Rover LS1 powered trialer, restoration of the '90 Range Rover, restoration\turbo diesel conversion of the '93 Range Rover, restoration of the '84 110 Defender, 5 lug conversion of my '71 240Z, etc, ad nauseam) I'll look into making serious changes to the '75 280Z. In the meantime, I will look at the Mazda V6 duct. Thanks.

In my Porsche CV conversion the same problem cropped up. My bar is mounted to the floorpan. I modified these mounts to move the bar forward (away from the CV) and also shortened the links. My conversion uses the Porsche 930 boot and flange. All other boots are really too big to work properly. The downside is the flanges are $145 each. The boot kits are available from Pelican Parts. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=928-332-097-00-OEM&catalog_description=%39%31%31%20Turbo%20%28%31%39%37%35%2D%38%36%29%20CV%20Joint%20Boot%20Flange%20%20 http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=901-332-293-12-M203&catalog_description=CV%20Boot%2C%20%39%31%31%20%28%31%39%37%34%2Dmid%20%31%39%37%35%29%2C%20%39%31%31%20Turbo%20%28%31%39%37%35%2D%38%34%29%20

There's no way around a new/rebuilt driveshaft with the R180. Now, depending on which R200 you get there are still two different pinion yokes. The N/A has a 2.25" pilot hole and the Turbo has a 2" pilot hole. Nevermind, I see now that you already have the matching 3.54 Turbo R200. Keep the old T5 flange so you can reuse it on the next driveshaft.

The '75 280Z I acquired had been fitted with a 240SX TB by the PO. The MAF is still located in it's stock location. The bellow between the two (possibly the original piece) is contorted into a horrible crushed angle. It is also cracking from the stress and old age (probably leaking unmetered air). Even new, it would have looked halfass. I walked the local PNP examining ever vehicle trying to find a suitable replacement to no avail. What are those using the 240SX TB doing here? Searching hasn't given me any leads. There has to be a better way even if it means shifting the MAF.

"Some will chime in and say get the LD28 crankshaft for a stroker project but that's another kettle of fish." "...pull the cranks, sell the cranks each for 500 on here" Told you so!

I think you'll find the early wheels to be 106mm or 108mm (4.25). The later appear to be 114.3mm (4.5). The is based on a quick search of some maserati sites on the web.

LD28 - good economy, kinda noisy, low performance N/A. L28ET - ok economy, different noisy, lots more performance. It's comparing apples to oranges. The LD28 is 19mm (3/4" taller) than the L28 but dimensionally the same in all other areas. The head is cast iron instead of aluminum. The oil pan will need to be swapped for a Z type and the oil pickup tube modified or the block drilled to relocate the oil pickup tube (as I did in a LD28 petrol stroker project I've built). It is very reliable. There is more weight associated with the extra iron. The engine wiring is dead simple since it is a mechanically injected motor. You'll need to acquire a fuel filter and sedimentator for the diesel. You'll need to lower the engine slightly to clear the hood (that may require dropping the front swaybar an equal distance to clear the oil pump). I new exhaust with at least 2.5" is a good idea. That's just the basics. Mileage will be darn good but it won't be a very enthusiatic vehicle to drive. Oh yeah, you can run WVO and drive darn near for free (research WVO and rdavisinva on eBay for a great bit of information). The L28ET stands on it's own. For a stock turbo'd engine the performance is good especially in an earlier lighter car. It is more of a direct bolt-in to your 280Z. No major fuel system changes required. Engine wiring must go with the engine or a standalone system installed. Mileage will not compare to the diesel but seat-of-pants performance will be night and day different. I know this didn't answer many of your questions. My opinion is you should run what you've got (assuming there's an engine in your Z) and learn a bit about your car before jumping headlong into a conversion. Some will chime in and say get the LD28 crankshaft for a stroker project but that's another kettle of fish. Learn to walk before you try to run. What the hell do I know? Who wants cake?

Lobster man loves driving RHD vehicles.

A proper tuneup goes a long way to reducing noxious exhaust fumes. Don't forget the fuel tank vent hose seals, antenna drain hole seal, spare tire drain hole seal and those seals in the rear hatch itself. Also, if you run rich and overheat the cat there is a chance of setting fire to your car. Sounds kinda silly but those cats can get glowing red hot when failing. Imagine lighting off the undercoating or years of oil accumulation under many of these Z's. Many vehicles have temp sensors to warn of a cat overheating to prevent cat damage and possibly worse scenarios.

It's only one man's opinion but I think you'd be unhappy in the long run with a RHD vehicle. The upside is a unique and cool ride that everyone wants to comment on. The downside is RHD specific parts avialability, paying highway tolls or getting parking slips at a parking garage, pulling out from a parallel spot on a busy road, making lefthand turns across a busy road, drive-thru fast food windows, bank drive-thru ATM's, etc. I know what I'm talking about as I have a RHD Range Rover and have driven multiply RHD british cars/trucks on this side of the pond. Imagine having to unbuckle and get out of your car to do any of the things mentioned? In a truck it is a little easier since you're already at service window height but in a low slung car it is a PITA unless you have a passenger on every occasion.

Yep, Tony. I've got two P90A heads and both are mechanical.

The TO bearing height is directly related to the height of the clutch (tall pressure plate/short TO bearing and visa versa). When matched, the clutch fork is located in the proper position for clutch disengagement. If Centerforce provided the TO bearing with the clutch kit then you should have no problems.

With rarity have I found decent used connectors. Most are hard and brittle due to the harsh environment they must live in. If you're going through the trouble to fab up your own harness it is well worth your time and money to invest in new parts. A quick web search of 'weatherpack connector kits' will provide several sources of parts. The price paid is well worth the peace of mind. Trying to resolve wiring issues because of pinching pennies will only leave you regretful IMHO.