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My advice was to see what Ross had to suggest only. That said, go with Savage's advice. If you were close you could chock them up in my lathe and knock it out in just a few minutes.

Go over to http://www.LS1tech.com and register. You should be able to find the answer to your problem without all of the excess labor.

Contact Ross at Modern Motorsport. I believe that's where they came from based on the MML stamping.

I have a set each of these as well. The one on the left is the earlier 5 bolt hub, I believe. I intend to use the later style to the right. A ring will be machined to pressed over that lip and tacked into place. The ring will be machined to accept a stock S30 oil seal and place it in the correct relationship to the spindle.

Changing those rack bushings to poly is a great step in handling performance. These are a PITA to get in! Soak them in scaulding hot water for a while before trying. Use a lubricant too. There's not much room to work in with the engine in place. IMHO you should also leave the rubber coupling in the steering shaft. The poly here only transmits excessive vibration. That may make the difference on a 'track only' car but a DD is already rough enough.

I paid $350 for my complete LD28. It is now a 2.8 tall block petrol soon to be SC'd. Still, that may be a bargain to someone looking to use both the block and crank.

I like that too. It looks like they forfeited the center vent though. I finally got my vintage air installed and that center vent does make a difference! I guess it's all in what you want. A DVD screen (or is that a GPS display?) in that location is illegal here in Va and I'd rather watch a movie from my couch or bed anyway.

You're own your own here. I've seen a few 'custom' panels in here. Most look like an afterthought made from a sheet of abs or aluminum. Anything that would appear unique but period correct would take concerted effort. I have a couple of ideas but chose to use a 73 panel modded to accept a small insert for the Vintage Air controls.

What are the specs of these bolts? I believe you'll find the Suby to be a 1.5 pitch. Bottom line is they need to 12mm 1.75 pitch. The length should be 145mm and 165mm.

My only suggestion is custom rods. By the time you're done dicking with trying to make other rods work you'll be just as deep time and money wise.

I'm building a 'stroker' L6 using the LD block and crank. This LD block is not siamesed. There is partial ribbing and gaps (~1/8") between the cylinders. Stock bore is 84.5mm. I only went to 85mm to keep strength and allow for additional rebuilds. To achieve the kinds of displacement mentioned here will require liners and probably reground cranks. I don't recall the dimensions this far down the road but believe I mentioned them in earlier posts about these engine builds. My build is using a P90A (mech) head and the stock V07 crank. I'm also using L20B rods and custom JE pistons. There is quite a bit of machining and mods involved in using the diesel block with the petrol head. Probably the most important issue is head bolts. There are NO bolts out there that just work. I researched many options even visiting a variety of diesel shops looking for these elusive bolts. The BMW bolts are NO exception. ARP will make you a set of 14 studs for only $1100. Working with a good friend and owner of an industrial fastener business we scoured his sources and found a solution. I can provide a set of 12.9 socket head bolts 12mm x 1.75 pitch in 150mm and 170mm lengths. All will need to be shortened by approximately 5mm to prevent bottoming out in the blind block holes. You'll only need ARP head bolt washers to complete the set. I've yet to complete my SC'd L6 but have all the confidence that these will perform more than adequately.

First, the old bar could get a good soaking and cleaning to ensure there is no oiling issues. Worst case might mean drilling both ends open for a good rodding then welding or brazing shut again. Second, the new bar can probably be straightened with no measurable problem to correct the spray pattern. This is just one man's opinion.

Rock Valley produces some fine fuel tanks. I think Tanks Inc does too. It won't be cheap though. I've got to get one produced for my custom Land Rover soon. Seems it will cost around $700....yikes!

I don't know of a source. Banzai doesn't carry it. My suggestion is to look at aftermarket power antennas. Maybe you can find a suitable gasket or replace the whole unit with a close match. Lastly, if you can locate a stock gasket in somewhat decent condition a mold could be made in plaster-of-paris. Devcon makes pourable rubber compounds in various hardnesses to reproduce this grommet. Cost could be offset by selling a few extras.

Be sure you have the vacuum hose check valve in correctly. My brakes were also very hard for power assist. I found that the PO had installed that valve backwards. Once corrected it would lock the wheels up with relative ease. I also used a 280Z booster in my 71 240Z but it did require drilling a new mounting hole pattern in the firewall.

That port is a signal out for use of an external shift light.

It should be fine. I've run cheap aluminum rads in my custom Land Rover with great success. That said, I lost the first one due to galvanic corrosion. You MUST isolate an aluminum rad from the steel support using grommets and plastic washers. If this isn't done the rad will slowly rot away. This is the same whether you spend $160 or $600. My only question is why you want to go away from the OEM brass unit? I've never had a an overheating problem with my 240Z except for a thermostat and/or a wornout fan clutch.

I run the electric pump only. I run a filter pre and post. My tank was cleaned and lined prior to installation so rust is a non-issue. The only concern is debri that might get in during fueling. I also run a simple dial-type FPR prior to the carbs.

If you're not going to purchase a stock Nissan pump then get an early RX7 pump (for the carbureted rotary). That's what I run. It fits well in the stock rear location. It puts out a solid 4 psi and is exceptionally quiet unlike many other external pumps.

I've got 3 three core rads here. I also picked up a clean as a whistle 'like new' '81 280ZX rad for $40 at the PNP this weekend. Too bad I'm on the east coast and your out on the left coast. Shipping would be a b****h. You shouldn't have a problem finding a good used unit out there in BC or the northwest US.

First, do some searching on auto to 5 speed conversions in here. There's plenty to read. Assuming you'll not be making any major performance upgrades, I'd suggest a stock flywheel and a complete clutch kit (pressure plate/rag/throwout bearing). You can get the flywheel with the transmission if you buy it from a complete donor vehicle. You'll also need the pedal box assembly (for the clutch pedal/MC) and the hydraulic line from that mc to the slave cylinder. Lastly, you'll have to make some minor wiring changes to remove the automatic safety switches.

There is plenty of info in here. You will have to read...A LOT! Cost is relative as there dozens of ways to reach a given destination. There is no perfect way or best anything. It all comes down to what YOU want and how much $$$ you're willing to part with to achieve it.

If you aren't able or willing to part with AT LEAST $6k then you need to re-evaluate your project. I'm not being cynical. I'm building a 2.8 stroker (yep, using a LD28 block and crank, P90a mech head, Isky custom cam/springs, L20b rods and JE 85mm custom pistons). The cost so far has been around $4500. That doesn't include the M62 supercharger ($1200), SDS fuel/ignition system ($1200), custom intake/injectors (+$600) , full stainless header/exhaust ($1400), ad nauseam. I'm not done yet so the final numbers aren't in. Looking back, I would seriously consider a LS1. The ONLY two reasons I chose this path was the challenge and I think the sound of a L6 suits a Z better than a V8.

The L14 was used on Nissan/Datsun Bluebird (510 series) models destined for non-U.S.A. markets like South America, Europe, and Africa. It was also sold in the A10 Stanza/Violet in the United Kingdom market.

Does the new harness incorporate the engine harness? To start your car you'll need fuel, air and spark. Since you're breathing ok that covers the air. We'll assume there's fuel too. To get spark, you need +12 volts at the + post of the coil with the key on. Do you have that? On my 71 that +12 volts comes through the ignition via the tachometer. Did you not hook something up? The lack of a resistor will not keep the car from starting but will cause the coil to overheat and points to burn up eventually.