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We need a LOT more information. What are you working on specifically, year, model, engine?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm letting everyone know we're having a car show this Saturday at Pomoco Nissan in Hampton Virginia. Anyone that wants to come out is welcome. Register on site to show your car. We include Z's, early coupes/sedans and Infinity's too. Awards are all people's choice. There's also an auction. Hope to see you there. Find us at http://www.tzccva.org/

The Miata seat does have a pan that sits rather low between the rails. I'm not sure how close to the floor you'll get them but it should be an inch or two lower. I don't want to pull mine back out to check as it's kinda a PITA. I'll try to measure it this evening.

Your best bet might be to consider removing the seat frames attached to the floor panels. You could weld in reinforcement plates and attach the seat nearly on the floor using through bolts. In my 240Z, I have the Miata seats and they do sit you up higher. I used 1" spacers on the rear to reduce some of the bucket effect too. Again, the seat frames could have been modified to lower my seats but it worked out well for me at 5'10".

Your best bet is using a Honda blower motor to replace the stock unit. It will push more air. They can be had at a junk yard for $10-$25 or off eBay for +$75! I'd try a back flush on the heater core (use the hoses where they attach to the block fittings). Detach the hose going to the hardline up to the water pump. Stick a garden hose nozzle in this hose leading to the heater core. The other hose is simply removed from the head fitting so the water can flow out to the ground. Be sure the heater control valve is opening all the way too. Also check to be sure your thermostat isn't stuck open which can slow the engine warming up (but usually causes overheating issues).

I'm am very pleased with these gauges. They are deadly accurate and fully programmable. The look is modern yet fits the era of the car very well. I didn't wire in a dimmer and had concerns about that. Night driving is fine with ample illlumination without glare or eye strain. I'd do these again for sure.......

redline oil

I was reading these posts and mentioned harmonics early on. There has been much speculation as to the cause but I think I may have stumbled on the answer. I was over at my engine builder's shop dropping off 12mm head bolts for my L6 project. We started discussing crankshafts, preparation, modifications, etc. He pointed out that Nissan and Toyota plug the cross-drilled holes in the crankshaft with slugs of aluminum. He described bearing failure on some rebuilds many many years ago that sounded just like the photos indicated here. Turned out that sludge and bearing material would build up behind those plugs over time. When rebuilt, the cranks would get the total treatment including rodding the passages but it wouldn't get to the trash behind these plugs (not realized by the builder). Once installed, this trash would dislodge and score one or more bearings on some engines. He now removes those plugs for a proper cleaning then fits threaded plugs (note: Jaguar has always fitted threaded plugs just for this purpose). The shop has never experienced failure due to this issue since changing their methods. Could it be the cause of this engine damage?

It's a very personal choice. I'm still sporting the original panels in my 240Z (with new spares under the bed). My suggestion is to make it look like the factory may have designed it. That is, keep it simple and clean. I feel the all panels should blend in with the rest of the interior so no one's eyes are drawn directly to a disparity. They should compliment, not overwhelm, the overall experience. That's just me though.

I've used Hammerite on many Land Rover projects. It is used primarily on axles and other underpinnings. That stuff is incredibly tough. Rustoleum bought out Hammerite some time back but I think it is the same quality product. It will stick to bare or rusty metal equally. Just clean off all loose debris and oily contamination. Brushed or sprayed, follow the instructions to the letter including second coats. If you wait too long you'll have to wait a few weeks for a full cure before topcoating again or it will soften and lift.

Toss it in the freezer for about an hour. It will shrink in the cold. Move quickly to place it in the flywheel. You do have a simple pilot tool to drive it in don't you? One can be made from a bit of brass or aluminum in just a couple of minutes on a lathe at your local machine shop. Alternately, a piece of alloy round stock with a flat face will work but you have to be careful to drive it flat to the flywheel.

This may sound crazy but I've heard and seen the L6 cranks shortened 4mm at the flywheel end. The starter is offset with a spacer and either the fork fulcrum is spaced out or a 240mm clutch with a 280 throwout bearing is used (I think I've got that straight) to set the fork angle correct. This is apparently a popular mod in Japan. It is suppose to make a dramatic reduction in harmonic issues at upper rpms. While I don't expect to see rpm's so high I've made the same mod to my V07 crank. No harm. No foul.

Glad to hear it worked out.

Check the points. Make sure you've got connectivity from the - of the coil to the points. A magnetic field is induced in the primary windings when the points are closed. When the dizzy rotates and opens the points the field in the coil collapses causing the secondary windings to send high voltage to the rotor/cap/plugs. If the points are actually working (opening/closing) and there connectivity then it might be a bad coil.

I usually go 160 to 165 but that's just me. Once it's torqued tight dont forget to peen the nut into the flats (unless youre using the later lock nuts). You won't strip the threads even to 180. Many screw up and hit it with an impact until it doesn't move. That severely overloads the nut and axle. It could also be one reason why some axles tend to snap here.

Coil is wired backwards. I didn't know this because I couldn't view the photo at work.

There should be a bracket located up front where the mechanical fuel pump is or would be located. The other point is often the last manifold bolt but that isn't my choice. I pull the bellhousing bolt to the driver's side and attach my chain there. It's much stronger and won't possibly damage the head. I also use a spreader bar that allows me to shift the balance as I manuever the engine/trans out of and into the car.

You'll not get the heater control cables attached and then install the dash. The cables are too short. It's like peeling an onion only backwards. Get the pedal assembly installed. Bolt in the heater assembly and hook up coolant/refrigerant lines. Add the fan assembly. Get all the bits and pieces (relays, etc.) installed in the footwells. Install the dash. Connect the vent hoses. Get the wiring connections done except the heater control/console/fuse panel/steering column. Install the center console/fuse block/lighter. Fit the heater control panel routing cables to either side. Connect cables to heater box. plug in fan switch and screw in control panel. Install steering column/connect electrics. Attach vent controls to dash. I think that is about it. Anyone else want to comment?

I was heading towards studs until ARP quoted me $1029 for a custom set of 14! I'm resigned to 12.9 12mm socket head bolts for my L6 project. Studs definately have their advantages. In our Z's installing/removing the head with studs is easy. That isn't the case in many other applications.

Kinda of like painting yourself into a corner. Quick thinking using the heat gun and lucky the driveline was pulled.

First, you need to go over to http://www.carfiche.com and download your manual (if your car is shown as TNA then come back in about an hour and it should be available then). It wouldn't hurt to paypal a couple dollars there too. It's a great free resource. Second, figure out why your fuel pump power is not getting to the pump. It could be a fuse or relay issue. The wiring diagram and data from your manual is helpful here. Once that is corrected then worry about getting the car to start. I still runs carbs so I'm not knowledgable with your FI but the troubleshooting basics still apply.

First, be sure the points haven't closed up on you. Next, put a volt meter or test light to the coil + contact with the ignition on. It should read 12V or the lamp should light. If no voltage there then check on either side of the resistor. If voltage is there then try jumping out the resistor to see if you can get voltage to the coil. The resistor is only there to drop the voltage so the points/coil aren't burned up during normal operation. If no voltage on either side of the resistor (with ignition on) then you can run a wire from the B+ of the battery to the + contact on the coil too. That eliminates the harness. It a matter of isolating and this should help get you in the right direction.

Thanks, Aziza Z! I received the bracket yesterday evening. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Helicoils are great and timesets are excellent, even if you're not repairing damaged threads.

Assuming it is broken off below the surface try this. Get a gasket and a piece of 1/4" flat stock about 3" x 6" (I'm guessing at the needed size here). Lay the gasket on the stock and carefully mark holes where three bolts go through (including the hole with your broken stud). Drill two holes to exact size (I think it's 8mm). Drill the hole for the broken stud to 1/8". Bolt that plate to the head and use the 1/8" hole as your drill guide. It will help center the drill. It also helps if you use a double point bit as they have less tendency to 'walk'. Use progressively larger bits to clear the stud out. You should be able to save the threads with just a tap.