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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735 Read...... There are other alternatives but you're on your own persuing them. The 240SX rear brake setup is easy, cheap and functional.

I'd like a photo of the underside to see the bracketry.

I've experienced that in a 96 4.3 in my Land Rover conversion. It has only happened a few times over 10 years. The noise is crazy loud until the lifter pumps up. I've never opened the engine to resolve it and it hasn't happened in a couple of years now...go figure.

Looks like you found the true culprit. That said, let me chime in about tires. There are only four small patches of rubber that keep your car in contact with the tarmac. Don't short change yourself here. Tires only about 4-5 years old are more likely to grenade due to UV, ozone and heat. I had an older set of Pirelli's on my 240Z that looked fine with great tread, no cracks, etc. One rear tire decided to delaminate at 70 mph on a straight highway. The rear quarter was damaged heavily before I could get off the road. Minutes earlier I was winging through the Smoky Mountains at similar speed. Had it happened there I would not likely be replying to this post now. Even cheap new tires are better than old expensive tires.

I run 2.5" s/s mandrel with a 12" resonator and 14" straight-thru muffler both from Magnaflow. My 2.4 liter has a Crane mild street cam. The sound is very quiet. Much more than I expected. I even placed a 7" s/s sleeve inside the resonator to trying to get a bit more sound. One thing to watch closely is the ID of the resonator and muffler. Most cheaper units are necked down internally. Someone mentioned it already but the resonator is your best bang for the buck to reduce the db level.

I had hopes of making and selling as the thread implied. The cost and trouble to produce became too much. This is one set of prototypes that I had made. The best were more $$$ than the average Hybridz enthusiast, let alone a regular Z owner, would be willing to part with. I'm just trying to recoup a small portion of the investment money.

One of the first pair are listed on ebay, 110432950399. Hope this doesn't get me in trouble with admin!

I just pull the shift rods and engage two gears at once. That locks up things nicely and doesn't risk marring anything.

That's why I bit the bullet and bought a Quaife unit. Damn, it is expensive but a work of art. Hopefully, this will be a one time purchase. The only other choices are the OBX or a stock VLSD. Like so many other projects this car has become less valuable whole than the sum of the parts.

I have both levers in my 11/70 240Z. To clear the issue, there were some 240Z's produced with two levers in the center console. The closest to the driver (LHD) was the enrichment lever. Most call this a choke but that is not how it functions. The second lever, right next to the enrichment lever, is actually a fast idle control, NOT cruise control. It is there to kick up the idle so the fuel enrichment can be disengaged. This prevents the spark plugs from loading up with excess fuel while the engine is warming up. It is usually used only when the car is sitting static, not being driven. This single cable attaches to the top of the throttle pedal. The cable housing is held in place by a bracket spot welded to the firewall above the throttle pedal. Most 240z's do not have that bracket. If you choose to hook this fast idle control up DO NOT use it for cruise control!!!! It does not disengage when you remove your foot from the throttle pedal or when the brakes are applied. The possible results of doing so could kill you or someone around you.

I pulled my 3.9 R200 from a 1981 280ZX 2+2 just two weeks ago. Sadly, you never know if the diff has been swapped out prior. The only sure way is to pull the inspection cover and checking the ring gear markings. I konw this because we pulled another diff about a month ago that should have been a 3.7 but it turned out to be a 3.54 ratio.

I've built a LD into a petrol engine using the LD block, V07 crank, L20b rods and JE pistons. The bore is 85mm (+.020). This engine is as close to square as you can come without reworking the crank or tweaking piston diameter. It's still on the stand while I work out the intake system and supercharger mounting. Realistically, I should have invested in an LSx as the cost of this L6 is crazy stupid. The only reason I went this way is the sound of a L6 and the challenge. Performance won't match 5.7 liter to 6.0 liter displacement.

Courtesy Nissan can help you out. The local Nissan dealer can help too. If I had a spare woodruff key I'd send it to you for reference. The keys are alike for L and LD. Take the crank and lower timing gear to the parts store and go through their key selection. A local auto machine shop should be able and willing to help you. I used the LD block for my build so clearance is not an issue for me. I'd ensure you have a good clearance so notching the block may be mandatory in your case. Can't help with the bellhousing.

One suggestion would be to relay those headlights. Find the leads at the front of the car that provide for low beams and high beams. Use those leads to activate two 30 amp relays (one for low, one for high). Connect the headlamps to the load outputs of the relays and connect the other side directly to the battery + using fused wiring. The difference in output of the headlights will be dramatic. You'll also take the load off the switch and fuse panel adding years to their lives. I'm sure there are detailed write-ups in here about this simple mod.

Sounds like a ground issue. Use a voltmeter or test lamp to check for voltage on both sides of the fuse with the headlight switch on. If 12v are there then start looking for a problem out under the hood. If not, then look at the switch. You need the FSM to effectively troubleshoot the harness. Go over to http://www.carfiche.com and download it. Drop a couple dollars in the kitty to support that site. I have no affiliation with that site but they provide a great service for 'free'.

Typically, the outer bearing comes out with the axle. Yours could be seized into place from road grit. Speaking only for myself, I'd replace the bearings while I was there anyhow. They aren't expensive and it a PITA to get to them.

We are to assume this actually worked prior? Sounds like blockage. I would suspect the flex line has deteriorated internally. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and see if the pressure still exist (you'll probably spill fluid so use a short length of hose into a jar to catch it). If the pressure is still high I'd look at replacing the hose and master cylinder (because the high pressure will likely damage the MC seal). This is the most basic of answers. I'm sure someone else will chime in.

Decide if you want the crank and/or block for a stroker project. Expect to spend a lot of money in the long run for such a project. If that's okay with you then head over with $350 - $400 in hand. Make the seller a cash offer on the spot. If he balked then decide if the full $450 is worth it. The biggest risk is the actual condition of the crank. You won't know until you open it up.

The valet at the local restaurant does.

With these wheels mounted have you checked to ensure that all are actually seating flush? Could be a small wobble or even internal carcass separation. I saw this more that once working at Firestone 25 years ago. The only other thing that comes to mind is an out-of-round tire/wheel. This is based on your statement the the problem flared only when you mounted these. I had a new set of big tires on my old 720 and had a horrible vibration. Turned out the one tire was 1/8" out-of-round. It shook like the truck would come apart although the balance was dead on.

My 13x40 would do the job. A local machine shop should be able to knock this right out for you.

Ron, I totally agree with you on that! Gawd, how hard is it to block the holes? It serves no purpose if there is no heater core. Even the external bypass from the thermostat housing back to the WP (via the intake manifold) had a mini thermovalve to stop the flow once operating temps were reached. The internal bypass in the head prevents cavitation at the WP at that point and ensures the thermostat is seeing actual cylinder head coolant temperature. Removing this path allows the thermostat to operate more effectively and stabilize temps. The heater, when used, also effectively removed some heat from the system.

That blows... I'm happy with my setup AND have the parking brake indicator too. The upgrade to the gauge is an easy BUT the wiring would be a beoatch without pulling the dash. If they included the parking brake lamp then.....maybe.