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It doesn't make a difference. As for pictures, you click on the "Go advanced" button. Scroll down and you'll see the "manage attachments" option. You'll open it and browse to where your photos are. One suggestion is to use a power tool to reduce the picture in your folder to a reasonable size prior to posting. That way you don't end up with an enormous picture in the posting.

Dollar for dollar you're much better off looking at a V8. I built a 2.8 stroker for my 240Z SC project. The cost of the long block including parts was around $6000. I used the LD28 block (85mm bore) and V07 crank, L20B rods and custom JE pistons. The head happens to be a mechanical P90A but could be any head you choose. This engine is nearly square with a rod ratio of approximately 1.7:1. A possible option on your crank would be getting the V07 piece welded up and reground to a greater stroke. You will experience clearance issues on the rod big ends though. Just custom crank, rods and pistons will likely set you back about $7000. That doesn't include the machine work or top end! Personally, I love the sound of a L6 winding up. The challenge of building my unique L6 was the motivator. Had I realistically looked at the cost I would have done a LSx for the cost, power and reliability.

I removed the fill plug from the tranny and fitted a 90 degree brass fitting with a straight hose fitting attached. A piece of heavy tubing (with the impregnated cord) was run up and affixed to the firewall. Another hose fitting with a thread cap was attached there. I measure out the proper amount of lube and pour it into the hose with a funnel and then replace the cap. Done. Unless you have a huge leak at the transmission there's no reason to check the fluid level again. If you drain it later you refill it from under the hood. Clean and simple.

It's likely in the hydraulics. Either the fluid is low, the MC or SC are failing or the setup is maladjusted. What you didn't provide is any information regarding the clutch prior to this problem. Did you just get this car? Did the clutch ever work? Did you replace anything and the problem appear? It's hard to offer any real suggestions without more data.

I hadn't noticed your home state. I acquired my 240Z from Mike Cooke just 15 minutes from you in Maryville about 6 years ago. It's undergone quite a bit of changes since then.

If you're going to put this on the street I'd check with a state inspector. That bung off the bottom of your tank may not be legal. Even if it is I wouldn't want a fuel line exiting the bottom. It seems like a huge potential fire risk to me. Maybe that's just my age speaking. Just a thought.

My 71 240Z has 0 offset. I believe that the 280Z has a 10mm offset. I'm sure someone can verify that one way or another.

For the rear, I designed and had three sets of 5-lug axles produced with the 19mm offset to match the Z31 hubs. The first two sets were very nice and resonably priced but the manufacturer screwed up the spline cut. They made a second pass which produced one good set and one bad set. I also had matching flanges produced. These are designed to mate to a 930 CV but there is ample material for modification to fit another more popular halfshaft cv joint. The final set from another manufacturer, shown in post #79 on the following link, are a work of art. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127529&highlight=axle&page=4 The problem is they are cost prohibitive to everyone here so I gave up on the project. FWIW, the Z31 had an early and late design. The late design can be modified with a simple ring added on to accept the S30 seal. I'm working on that when I can get to it. While the Z31 seal will work it is difficult to get it over the spindle (many cut the inner lip off). After it's all done there still remains the problem of finding stock or aftermarket wheels that don't need to be custom made. I'm going to buy pin-drive wheels from http://www.vintagewheelsus.com or custom bolt-on from Boze. Either way, it's going to run + $2000 just for the wheels...

If your car were on it's side then you'd have horizonal mis-alignment. Truth is no car has a perfect arrangement. You say scarring but I think it's more likely normal wear and tear. Post some pictures so we can get a better idea of your problem.

Assuming the R200 has the early style 4 bolts output flanges then yes to the stock halfshafts. Driveshaft length may or may not work. There are posts about this very subject. Originally, I had a Type-A 5-spd and relocated R180 in my '71 240Z. I put a KA 5-spd conversion and R200 in. The pinion flange needed to be changed to match a stock 280Z(?) driveshaft but the length worked out fine in my case. Take everything I say with a grain of salt though.

Try http://www.hpsalvage.com down in texas. I bought a 2000 LS1/4L60E (16k miles) complete with everything (uncut wiring, complete exhaust, all hardware bagged) for $4500 several years ago.

There's a 73 in the picknpull right now. I didn't look to see the condition of the glass though. I will be going back out there this coming weekend. If the glass is good I would consider pulling it and packing for shipment to you. Cost of shipping will be over $200 USD via the US post office based on shipment to Kuwait city. UPS will be 2.5 times that!

There is a small split clamp at each SU. One side of the clamp tightens to the nipple your SU that the cable sheathing sits in. The other part of the clamp tighens to the sheathing. The idea of the clamp is it prevents the sheathing from backing away from the SU when you're disengaging the fuel enrichment. That forces the solid core cable to move the SU lever properly. Without the clamp the fuel enrichment may not be fully removed causing the engine to run rich (fouled plugs and poor economy).

Horriblefrieght sells a small device you clamp around the cable housing and cable. You then spray a solvent or oil into a hole for that purpose. It just may work. You could ask if anyone has a spare for sell on the cheap too.

One or two things are going on here. First, there is no choke on a SU. You're referring to the fuel enrichment. The nozzle is lowered allowing more fuel to pass the needle at idle than would normally flow. That helps the engine run until it warms up enough to properly vaporize the fuel in the intake system. The two rubber hoses are connected to the vents of the fuel bowls to equalize pressure therein. If the needle/seats become clogged with debri the fuel flow isn't cutoff at the preset fuel bowl level. That fuel continues to rise in the bowl until it flows out the applicable rubber hose and into the air cleaner. Here it sits vaporizing and drawn into the intake via the SU horns. You should be smelling gas to the high heavens! Moving on. The other culprit could be an aftermarket pump applying too much pressure and blowing the needles off the seat in the fuel bowls. The SU fuel bowl top can be removed to check and clean the internals. It has a thin gasket so proceed with care. I'd look into fixing that issue before concerning myself with carb adjustments. I'd also remove all the rubber hoses feeding the fuel rail and SU's and blow the fuel rail out really well with air hose to be sure the return line isn't blocked. You'll never get the sync'ing right with the present problem.

I kept the return to the tank using the stock setup (feed line, fuel rail, return line).

Just blue in my Z. I felt the cobalt was going to be too hard on the eyes.

So you really intend to plumb the whole system with braided line? That's what I'm getting out of this thread. While your desire to 'experience' it for yourself is noble it will come at a great cost and greater disappointment. I personally can't stand s/s hardlines but will use the short teflon lined braided flex hoses. S/s lines are a bitch to bend/flare and tighten to leakproof status. My first choice (the only choice really) for hardlines would be cupro nickel. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=p1lLS_ysDojRlAfflfWMDQ&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&ved=0CAoQBSgA&q=cupro+nickel+brake+line&spell=1 It's the standard for most european car manufacturers. Bends and flares easily, is extremely strong and nearly corrosion proof too.

The mechanical pumps are quite reliable and easy to install. My first choice would be to replace what you have. Check your oil for fuel stench. Most mechanical pumps will leak into the block if the diaphragm is failing. I run an early 80's carb'd RX7 electric pump in my 240Z. It puts out a steady 4 psi. Quiet as a church mouse too. It's mounted on the down bracket for the rear suspension. There are two holes in the flange of my stock fuel tank that would accomodate a custom fuel pump bracket. The wiring is already back there for the pump. Electrics push much better than pull.

John's right about the horns. You could purchase some low profile horns and mount these inside your filters to partially compensate though. Those vent hoses will need to go down to a point below the framerail. They can be Tee'd together. You could even use steel fuel line for the down tube. Keep these well away from the exhaust! The other option is fittings in the backside of your filter housings, however, if a needle sticks the fuel will pour out the element onto the exhaust and.....flame on. Having a car burn due to a fuel leak really sucks...been there.

I saw this over on Google videos. I didn't search to see if someone had already posted it. This guy's technique could be improved on for a final product. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5177213949300140850#docid=980547339061120203

More photos

Okay, I got off my arse and shot some pictures. The car is quite dirty but still presentable. The centerlines are on long-term loan. I've finally got the five lug stub axles and flanges completed so new wheels and zg flares are coming.

Crap, it's been a whole year now? HAHahahaha. With so many projects going it's just hard to keep up. I'll get a couple of shots and post them up. Heck, I've redone the whole interior since those seats were first installed. I'm sending a reminder to my E-mail right now.

I was going to mention the simplest of test. Placing a coolant system pressure checker on the rad would answer the most meaningful question. It will also show the source(s) of damage if external to the block or head.