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Chevy BB V8 rod bolts were used in my '71 2.4 L6. Just like the ARP bolts, the rods need to be opened up to use these larger bolts. It's easy and inexpensive to do to a set of the earlier 8mm connecting rods.

A small hole can be drilled and NPT tapped (or an existing hole used) in the thermostat housing. A small brass hose fitting can be added and that line run over to the high side of radiator on the PS. Here you have a small hose nipple brazed or soldered into the tank. The engine will self bleed with ease doing this. This is common on many FI engines to promote heating the intake or MAF. LS1 have this setup which also prevents air pockets in the cylinder heads (for which they are notorious) as well as heating the MAF. I do it with any Land Rover V8's running Edelbrock intakes and 4bbls although the nipple already exist on the LR radiator. Anything from 1/8" to 3/8" will work. No, it won't have a detrimental affect on cooling the engine.

Please don't buy those crap China studs at your local hardware store. They're unlikely to even be grade 2. Either locate a fastener supply in the local industrial park or order these from some place like http://www.mcmaster.com. The size is 8mm 1.25 pitch though not certain of the length. 50mm should be close.

I used a 25 ton press to free the cut spindle pin bits from one of my control arms. It sounded like a gun going off when things stated to move. I used short cut bolts to push the pins out. Keep at it. Remember to wear safety shields as things can go wrong quickly. Once you've cleared the pin pieces do a through cleaning of the strut housing and LCA to remove all corrosion. I coated my pins, strut housing and LCA in a copper based anti-sieze to ensure the new pins would come out at a later date. DO NOT drive the lock pins back in until they bottom out. They only need to keep the spindle pin from rotating when tightening the outer nuts. There are plenty of posts about pin removal and replacement. Take time to read these.

I installed a 280Z booster in my 240Z when I went for a bit more brake assist. It was relatively simple. It only required drilling new holes for the wider stud pattern. There is enough room to accommodate this booster and still replace the clutch MC, if needed. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114954&highlight=booster

http://www.vintageair.com, http://www.hotrodair.com, http://www.jcwhitney.com and many others supply basic ducting. The biggest problems will be the center duct and the blower/heater core pieces. They are oddball shaped requiring a little finesse to work around. That said, I might have much of what you need or you could give Todd Wagner a call at Tidewater Z Auto Service in Poquoson, Virgina at 1-757-868-6753. He has a stockpile of good parts and can probably help you too.

Provide more info about the rest of the drivetrain. The turbo CV's are holding up under a lot different applications running strong hp and torque loads. There has to be more to your problem. I run Porsche 930 CV joints/adapters and Empi axles in my 240Z. The engine is basically stock (for now) so I couldn't tear up axles if I wanted to. The point is these CV joints are rated at something like 600 lb/ft. It would be difficult to trash them with most setups. The cost to do this was around $1000. The cost of setting up a solid axle with 4-link would be a bit more $$$ I'm confident in saying.

Before you swap out the booster be sure the check valve is installed properly. If it's backwards no vacuum will get to the booster.

There is a specific tool for this job and it isn't a pickle fork. Search tie rod removal tool or just go here. http://www.carparts.com/AMERICAN-PRESTO-TIE-ROD-END-REMOVAL-TOOLS/GP_2004158_N_111+10718+600022267_10618.car

Are you already runing SM needles? They provide a richer misture off-idle. As for no filter, it doesn't take a lot of ingested dust and grit to eat up the rings and cylinders. I'd seriously consider a filter of some sorts. Afterall, the hood is down most of the time. You can always pull the filters to show off the horns when showing the car.

Someone should come up with a 'Pin Puller Club' sticker for those that have ventured here. I built my own puller using only the finest materials. One pin came right out. I was thinking 'This is a breeze!' until I got to the other side. Both ends gave way before the pin moved. I ended up removing the LCA/strut and cutting the pin between the two to separate them. Getting the pin out of the strut housing required a 25 ton press, a scatter shield and luck. Once that piece of pin was out you could clearly see where it was seizing because the locking pin was overtightened and distorted the spindle pin. I polished the strut housing hole and new pins and applied plenty of copper-based antiseize before assembly. I should never have a need to be here again but am sure it would be much easier the next time. Rule #1, DO NOT install the lock pin with a hammer and hi-torque. The spindle pin is distorted and won't come out if you do! It is only there to keep the spindle pin from rotating while installing the nuts on either end. That seems to be the culprit in most of these cases. My lock pins are tapped in lightly and there is no nut retaining them as there is barely enough thread to hold onto. Most seem to drive the lock pin in until they can get a washer and nut on it...bad idea!

I run the eibachs with illumina shocks. It is also fitted with front and rear sway bars. I don't track my car so can't say how well these handle under those conditions. The ride on the street is very nice. Handling is tight and the ride isn't too harsh (shocks turned to 2-f and 3-r). I've almost finished fitting my new R200 Quaife 3.9 diff. I might be inspired to give autocross a try soon although several club members have threatened to kick my butt if I do cause the car is soooo nice.

Contact Todd Wagner at Tidewater Z Auto Service (757-868-6753). I believe he has the only ones (4 or 5) available in the US at this time. I just had a R200 built for my 240Z and it took quite a while to acquire the bearings. We were first sent an incorrect bearing in the properly marked box. This is a unique bearing as stated. I haven't researched for a comparable bearing to fit using shims or whatever. I'd be very reluctant to use anything other than a deep groove bearing. Nissan engineers did this for a purpose.

I would think that plain old axle grease would suffice. Over time, the lube gets contaminated with dust and grit and also loses much of it's lubricity (petroleum evaporation?). As for play, who knows? As any regulator used regularly over 30+ years is going to have slop. As long as the arms are falling apart there should be little concern IMHO.

My old school Janspeed s/s 6-2-1 header can be seen here. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=18972&ppuser=7128&sl=e The primaries are very close in equal length and the slip-on collectors are way long. This header dumps into 2.5" s/s mandrel bent tubing, straight-thru resonator and muffler.

That's what I was thinking. Just wanted someone to validate me.

These are truck transmissions. They shift fine for a truck. I have a 4500 in my Land Rover conversion. It would holy suck in a car if you could fit it which you can't as these things are huge! A T5 or 700R4 would be fine for a L6 or V8 car. You could build a 700hp engine but if you can't put the power down as traction what possible reason would you want it? Peeling rubber off expensive tires to please a crowd of teens and young adults doesn't count.

I have a 71 240z R180 diff housing in excellent condition (cleaned and painted) but without side covers (they were mysteriously misplaced). It will include a 4:11 ring and pinion in excellent condition too (pinion is already installed). I have a two sets of 6 bolt output flanges and one set of stock 4 bolt flanges for a R180 diff. I also have an original NISMO CLSD for a R180. It is in need of a rebuild but all parts are available according to Tidewater Z. This R180 was removed from my Z for a rebuild but I wanted to change the r&p to a 3.90 so I opted for a R200 conversion (with a Quaife diff). After the fact, I would have been $$$ ahead to just rebuild the R180....oh well.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143072&highlight=revolution I did the speedhut gauges. They are light years better than stock but pricey.

I think his wheels came from Compomotive. They appear to be the TS style.

You're not likely to get much from the PM. I tried that sometime back and only got an offer to buy the system. No other info requested was forthcoming. I'm building a SC'd L28. The now completed long block is based on a LD28 block and V07 crank, L20B rods, JE pistons, P90A mech head and a custom cam from Isky. This will be EFI using SDS and Justin Olsen's intake flange. The mounting of the SC has yet to be finalized. I'd like to mount it below the intake and use an intercooler but it may interfere with the a/c compressor. If limited space won't allow for this arrangement I'm going to mount it straight to the intake are limit boost to the 6-8 lb range. It won't be a monster but should prove to be a pleasure to drive.

Same response since no changes are made to the ackerman angle. It just makes everything easier. My only concern would be too much sensitivity at higher speeds but that could be eased with reduced operating pressure overall. I've got a Suby rack in the garage that has been modified for use in my 240Z. It's just a matter of getting around to installing it.

You'll see the black exhaust smudge from the leak assuming it is in an area that you can get a look at. Moot point though as you'll need to pull the manifolds to repair anyhow.

You're not driving the car now. Pull the head on the engine to determine what the damage is. Did you shut right down when things went bad? Did you hear the horrible din of knocking from a spun bearing? You may be able to get your engine going without much effort or cost. Meanwhile, keep looking for a L28. You'll find one in time.

Yes. It has been done. Now go do some serious searching on the subject of 5 lug conversions.