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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    The answer to your question about duration is on page 8. Degreeing the cam would at least tell you if it's installed correctly. You still haven't answered the questions about the rest of the engine. Compression ratio, engine management, timing (maybe you just need to set the ignition timing correctly), etc. The very basic stuff. No point in swapping cams without addressing the basics. That's all I have. Good luck.
  2. NewZed
    https://www.lunatipower.com/PDF/Lunati-Catalog.pdf
  3. NewZed
    Spend some time on this site - http://www.diyautotune.com/
  4. NewZed
    They're just wires. You don't need to do anything, just do what you want.
  5. NewZed
    cygnusx1 did a ton of legwork and shared it. If cygnusx1's diagram isn't close enough, then nobody's will be (did you even look at it?). And you don't need to stay outside, bring the 300ZX shaft in to your nice warm home. The dimensions you need are on the CV shaft. Or take the shaft and the drawing to whoever is doing this work so cheaply for you. Your best band-aid for getting back on the road might be to use the u-joint half-shafts, with R200 open-diff axle shafts. Clip-in, bolt-in, and cheap.
  6. NewZed
    This guy says RB crank bolts are a problem. http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/
  7. NewZed
    Here's another thought, since you're welding - buy some junkyard 300ZXT companion flanges and cut the flange off. Fit them to your Z car companion flanges. Weld.
  8. NewZed
    These guys would probably make you one if they don't already. Four 300ZXT-spaced holes, instead of six 108mm CV holes. Still spendy. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/nissan-datsun-510-240z-4-bolt-axle-flange-to-108mm-cv-conversion-plate-rear-axle
  9. NewZed
    Here's some good stuff on cage materials. Apparently there's some compromising involved depending on application. I wonder if a new cage would get you back to where you started, or if the races and balls have too much play due to wear. #4. http://driveshaftshop.com/blog/?p=567 The fact that the cages are worn on both sides makes you wonder also though, if there was enough travel available in the first place. Just wondering, don't know much.
  10. NewZed
    There's not a whole lot to the specs. besides a few measurements. It takes some work to get them right but the whole set of numbers is not complicated. A center, some holes, a parallel plate. You could take the 280ZXT CV drawing and change the six holes to four. cygnusx1 has done 90% of the work for you. Take the 4 hole measurements yourself. Make it thinner if you're welding and doing the other side too. The companion flange dimensions are the same for the 27 and 25 spline hub axles. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/3-cv-adapter-print/
  11. NewZed
    Could it be that the shaft was either too long or too short? Looks like the balls were getting forced to one side of the cage. How does the other cage look? And the balls.
  12. NewZed
    Put the gears in neutral, turn the key On, and short the small spade on the starter solenoid to the big cable from the battery, at the starter, using a wrench or screwdriver. That will power the starter with about the most energy available possible. If it starts, you'll know it's not the starter or battery or cables. And you'll have a fail-safe method while you try to figure it out. Make sure it's in neutral since you'll be bypassing any safety mechanisms. There will be some sparks, just hold it there while the engine spins. You can also use a length of wire from the solenoid spade to the battery + terminal. If you want to go one step further, measure voltage at the coil when you turn the key On to make sure it has the potential to start.
  13. NewZed
    Dang, I wasted 2 minutes on Google. SleeperZ got here first.
  14. NewZed
    If it's like the 280Z's then it controls coolant flow based on heater core temperature. Like a thermostat, except it only covers a range of temperatures around the manual setpoint. Keeps things from getting too hot when coolant flow is high, and too low when coolant flow is low, like at idle. Can't find it described in the ZX FSM but I think I've seen in the Z FSM's. They're liquid-filled tubes and usually blown out by now. If you find yourself turning the heat down as you get on the highway at higher RPM it's probably not working. You'll have to take more parts off to find where it's clipped on to the heater core. Here's a source for valves (aka watercocks). http://www.datsunstore.com/heater-control-valve-7983-with-manual-heat-rebuilt-p-276.html
  15. NewZed
    I'll stop after this one. The better CV shaft topic is just too interesting to leave. I don't see a lot of "plunge" room on Joe's axle shafts. Kind of suggests that he's going with the non-floating design. So, "trust but verify" would be the way to go.
  16. NewZed
    I wonder who is making the "kit". He says "the manufacture®" on the page. [Odd, "r" in parens = ®.] He seems good at collecting the right parts though. The factory type CV shafts will probably disappear eventually as the reman market runs out of used shafts. This kit is rated at 800HP by the manufacture.
  17. NewZed
    As I understand the 930 design, they can change length by both means. The CV joint has a range, and the axle splines have a range. Some people lock the joint on the spline and just use the CV range. Or let the joint float for more range. But if the joint floats on the splines then the splined surfaces become loaded sliding surfaces with all of those inherent problems. You'd need to know how Joe built his axles to know what to worry about. And comparing the range of lengths is apples-to-apples. Too short is too short, too long is too long. Just sayin'... Speculative answers is why people post questions in the forums. New ideas. The more the better.
  18. NewZed
    Some people with adjustable control arms just move the hubs out to get clearance for the stock shaft lengths. But that changes the track width. So plans of usage for the car matter.
  19. NewZed
    The size of the ring gear is definitely a limiting factor. It's about leverage. But the too hot for an ungloved hand, maybe not so relevant. That's not very hot. I love a good reason to go dig up some obscure information though. I'm sure the diff got much hotter than too hot for a hand. http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20100020960.pdf
  20. NewZed
    The control arm may be broken but the casting at the bottom of the strut assembly is also, for sure. You need another. You should probably put the suspension link mounts back where they were also. I'd guess that someone thought it was a good idea to make room for the back of the diff through moving the dogbone down by dropping the hangers and the control arm mounts. But that changes the geometry of the suspension movement. Wouldn't be surprised if the "shock" shafts in the strut tubes were bent also. The angle of the strut is changed. The front mounts would have to be dropped also. Are they?
  21. NewZed
    That was your L wire. Light Emitting Diode. The diode fixes a different problem.
  22. NewZed
    Never mind.
  23. NewZed
    It would help to know also how he made the diff axles. Looks like he probably got a 930 flange axle blank and machined the splined end. There are different spline shapes out there, some loose, some tight. Could affect strength and the way they drive. The older R200 shaft splines are pretty loose and that's part of what makes them clunky. Nissan tightened things up in the later VLSD diffs. Looks interesting, I hope he got the details right. Not trying to be negative, that's just the stuff that I look at. Good luck.
  24. NewZed
    It would be useful to know the range of length for both the 930 style CV axles and the Z31's. RZ has to change axles because the range is limited with the Z31 axle. If you had the actual low end and high end for both that would be even more useful. Flange to flange, compressed and extended. Guys like Joe should put those numbers on their web pages.
  25. NewZed
    The "L" wire at the "T" plug on the back of the alternator is not getting power when the key is On. Make power go there. If the Charge Lamp blows, you'll lose that power supply. Might be a wiring problem, might just be a bad bulb. I'm not familiar with the 1975 system though. If you do find power at L then a bad alternator is likely.
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