NewZed

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120421-l28-350z-6-speed-transmission-adapters/

Just came across this new Pertronix product. Lots of words but only one number - two, for two sparks per combustion event. Anyone know anything about it? I've thought that Pertronix was mostly hype these days, but this would be something if it was real. But I would also expect a real engineering-based form to show some data. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=164 http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7meo/pertronix-flame-thrower-hei-iii-ignition-performance

You should make this your signature. The 83 engine and transmission should swap in directly. You implied though, that you'll be using the 79 manual transmission since you mentioned another ECU. If you use the 79 transmission, everything behind it will remain the same. If you use the 83 transmission, use the 83 propeller shaft. The 83 ECU will probably work with the 79 manual transmission. If you want to see which parts are the same between the two models, check the FSM's.

If you can, re-title your post to say "LSX swap parts" or something similar. I ignored your post when I first saw it because it looked like another ill-informed person asking a simple question. "Parts gathering" - boring!

Weird how some threads can get totally messed up.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters of each year FSM. If you don't feel comfortable figuring out where the power's coming from you might want to rethink it. But it looks like they didn't change the relays until 1978. Your information in Post #1 about the relays doesn't seem to be right. So 1975-76 should be a match for your car. You might even end up with spare parts. Get other parts like the ignition module and distributor if they seem in good shape. Thermostat housing, water pump, etc. All worth a look.

To be clear - there will be a few wires that are different. You'll have to figure them out. But the basics, like the AFM, injectors, fuel rail, etc. will all fit.

You never really asked a question, but the EFI system should work fine on your engine. It should bolt and plug right in. Make sure you get the EFI/pump relay from under the dash, or make sure that your 77 EFI relay is still there. The EFI harness is essentially a stand alone harness with just a few connections to the main harness.

Your real question might be "will the four hole R200 pinion companion flange swap with the six hole R230 pinion companion flange?". I'm guessing.

R230 Final Drive and Propeller Shaft Companion Flange 1996 300ZX

Nissan calls the differential the "Final Drive".

I see now. Seems simple enough though, They're called companion flanges, because they have companions. Get the propeller shaft that goes with the diff.

Which block? http://theshopmag.com/features/499-mopar-build-part-1 There's a reference somewhere on the site to a 440 in a Z. BRAAP's dad I believe. Actually close to you in Sandy. It was a while ago though. Get ready to spend.

Lots of good information in the FSM's is you can't get an answer here. Most consider the propeller shaft flange to be the "pinion" flange. You seem to be talking about the side shafts. Nissan used both 5 and 6 bolt flanges for the short-nose R200. They might have done the same for the R230. Check the PD chapters. And note that they had both R200 and R230 as options for some model years. Also, the R230 is noticeably more massive than the R200. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

You might break some bolts off in the head, or in the thermostat housing itself. Be careful and try to avoid that. The bolts tend to rust in their holes from slight coolant leakage over the miles and get stuck tight. I'd run the engine and get it nice and warm, then try to ease the bolts out. A hot head and housing will expand the holes and give you the best shot.

I'll plug JMortensen's past work. Information is so easy to find these days that people don't look for it anymore. Very ironic. Not far down the first post - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

A welded diff is pretty obvious, from what I've read. The rear wheels chirp when turning, chattery chirpy turns at low speed. Handles weird, probably understeers. How did he weld the diff mount? That's going to be noisy. Check out the RTz-style mount from Technoversion.

Rockauto.com. Maybe even your local auto parts store, or Nissan dealer. Just search tension rod bushing on Google and see what you find.

It won't hold up as well as an R200. And the spinning tire insurance policy will still wear the differential out eventually, since there will be a lot of one-wheel spinning. Your system is unbalanced. Don't forget about the diff mount problem also. You'll probably tear it first, before any of those other problems happen. Nickels and dimes. Might as well sit down, list out the parts, and do the math on where you want to end up.

Do not drop anything. Worst case, use a dead blow or rubber mallet to lightly tap things in to place. What does this mean "bolt back on right"? There might be a clue there. What shape is it in now? The case is almost on or it's disassembled? What do you see? More clues - who is "they"? Who is "her"? Describing the situation is 90% of the battle.

What part of America? If you're close I could drive by and throw one at you. If you're far, probably not.

Doesn't seem to be an engine problem if the above is true. He just doesn't want to do EFI. Carry on...