NewZed

Match the fuses or go a little higher. There are two separate plugs to the dual relay, if you wanted to replace just half/one. Here's a potential source - http://www.datsunstore.com/relay-fuel-injection-7577-fuel-pump-p-735.html

I did blend my sequentials. Was trying to figure out why FricFrac was talking about "sequential" ignition and got messed up. I assume it was as opposed to wasted spark, but there must be a more clear term for it. "Normal" ignition, maybe? Single coil, wasted spark, coil-on-plug? Even wasted spark is sequential where it matters so that doesn't seem like a distinction.. If ignition timing is based off of crankshaft position, as an indirect measure of piston position, and if lash in the system is important to be accurate, why would a cam sensor be better than a crank-mounted sensor, or even a distributor? Both of the latter two have lash inherent. Focusing on ignition alone, no cam timing control, or injection. Just the timing of the spark. That's accuracy, having the sensor tied to the crankshaft, no chain or gear lash to deal with. Precision might require an optical device, the more signals the better. So, an optical device on the damper pulley seems like the ticket. For most accurate ignition timing, regardless of coils. Just trying to break it down to the basics. There are many combinations a person could put together. Anyway, as Derek pointed out, the buyer can put whatever system on that they want.

Isn't comparing "wasted spark" to "sequential" the wrong comparison? It should be wasted spark versus coil-on-plug (COP). Tried to find a simple internet reference but everyone compares wasted to sequential. But it seems like you should be able to run wasted spark in sequential mode. You only get half coil capacity (as noted above). Maybe EDIS doesn't do sequential. Sequential goes away in most systems above a certain failry low RPM number anyway. It's mostly an emissions fix, isn't it? And it seems like the "trigger" is where the precision and accuracy are generated. The 360 little holes are for that purpose.

Your cylinder pressure numbers are above turbocharged engine spec., standard, and above both NA and turbo spec., low. Maintenance chapter, S.D.S. There's a lot of variability between tools and techniques but yous don't look terrible. Might be worthwhile to do a little more detective work before spending. Good luck.

Not to mix your threads and forums but didn't you say that you were going to get it running and drive it for a while before tearing things apart. You're not even sure what you have. You're going to end up with an empty wallet and a pile of parts.

Your issue isn't the threaded portion of the spring perch on the tube, it's the piston in the damper assembly. The shaft in the shock.. As you move the spring perch up you extend the shock. A good shock design will maintain enough contact at full extension to be okay (I think, I'm not an expert in shock design). Besides that the shock/damper should only see small side loads. It's mostly along for the ride and the control arm is what handles side loads. The strut controls the up and down. If you set the perch too high, the shock will "top out" over depressions in the road. Lots of topping out isn't good for a shock absorber. .Run one all the way up and see how much travel the shock has, then you'll know how much you have left when you set the spring perch.

Who is "as tore"? https://zcardepot.com/exterior/bumper

Cylinder pressure will give you clue about compression ratio.

Get the numbers from the engine block (cast-in above the driver's side engine mount - N42, F54) and head (N42, N47, P79, P90). List the parts the engine rebuilder installed (flat-top or dished pistons). Described the injectors (color and numbers, if you plan to keep them or just for fun). You might have a 78 NA motor with turbo parts added. You listed all of the bolt-on parts but none of the ones critical to being a turbo engine.

The voice of reason in my head is wondering if knowing it works wouldn't be worthwhile before spending too much effort on appearance. Only posting to support that tiny voice that you must be hearing in your own head...

Sounds like the axle clips are not in!!! You can see them if you look in the hole. They're needed.

Pretty sure that KYB and Tokico use different gland nuts. Look at what they do and you might find a way to make your stock nuts work. I had pondered the differences when I installed my KYB's. A piece of thin wall pipe cut to size maybe. The nut centers the shock in the strut tube, and clamps it to the bottom of the tube. Use something around the top of the shock to center it, and washers on top to get the proper clamping force. Threads showing when tight.

I thought that most people just got the clip started in the hole then used something like a deepwell socket to keep it square while they tapped it in.

All I'm really saying is to for Joe, or zcardepot, or DSS, to say this. And this is just a single point. I asked about materials to zcardepot in a different thread and he answered. But, before I asked, his was just another "kit" from an unknown person who may or may not know what they're doing. Like Senza Pari, or Datsun Parts Limited (aka California Datsun). The same questions keep coming up and we, the forum members, all answer them in terms of what "should be". Just pick the middle and you'll be fine. But the guys making the parts just make a list of parts, some pictures, and a horsepower rating. At least DSS took out the crazy stuff from their ad copy. Just trying to clarify some things. Surprisingly difficult to do.

You've only tried the 39 spline hub axles from MM/CFJ, not the whole kit. I'm just looking for the most basic confirmation like "this assemblage of parts, the kit, fits in to an unmodified S30 body and suspension and functions properly". Selling five kits and not receiving any complaints isn't much. We all know about the binding problem if they're too long, and pulling the axles out of the diff if they're too short. If they require adjustable rear arms, that's fine, just say so. And I'm just offering advice to the guys that sell the products, on how to sell more. But, on the other hand, when people get on the forum and say horsepower rating is their main criterion for choosing a product, you can't blame the manufacturers for their ad copy. Even DSS talks torque in their online articles but puts "1000 horsepower" in the ad copy. Who needs "1000 horsepower" for an R180 application (the first link in Post #1)? That's absurd. But pretty funny if you think about it. Here's something interesting though - the 1000 HP part of the original DSS link is gone. People are watching these forums and responding. Which is good. Eventually we'll see descriptions like "end-to-end (flange-to-flange) driveshaft length allows installation in all S30 platforms (240Z to 280Z) with no binding or shaft-pulling. 930 race, cage and bearings use XXXX material, with heat treatment designed for racing or high-performance street usage. The cages will explode in a drag-racing application". Something like that. I'm just a guy who reads these things, realizes they make little sense or are missing the point, and asks questions. On here mainly for the discussion right now. Joe seems like a good guy but I don't think that he's a car guy. Probably a very capable machinist and businessman making parts exactly to specification, like the best machinists do. We need to get him the right specs., and help him describe what he's selling so people will buy and be happy with what they get. Everyone wins.

I wonder why Nissan puts check valves in the MC outlets of their four disc cars, if they're only needed for drum brakes. Maybe not needed, but offer some small benefit? A mystery.

These axle conversations never satisfy. Weird how the endless loop continues, never really adding much. At least this round has led to the knowledge that there are nine CFJ kits out there somewhere, five for one of the S30 bodies (narrrow 240Z or wide 280Z?). Maybe one of those people will drop by and offer some real-world insight. Also, zcardepot has reported some of his manufacturing process in a different thread. Of course, some questions remain unanswered. Apparently he'll be putting together and installing a kit soon though so might have some feedback. Some progress is being made. The company that makes good parts, fills the knowledge void, and can add a feeling of security (real or not) to a purchase with numbers and results will probably win the battle. Many threads out there from people asking questions then moving on to something else when there are no answers. Anybody know what material the stock flanges are made of and their heat-treatment?

Oops. Didn't follow my own advice... My mistake. 39 spline axles? Plus, one's for the R200 and the other the R180.

Now I really feel ignorant. 1976 shows a check valve also. I have check valves. I wonder if instead of removing these check valves, they should just be replaced with a lower force (pressure?) valve. 2 and 10 lbs seem to be the options. Might be a fine detail, but if they've been using them in all models, they would seem to have some benefit. Opinions seem to vary though - https://www.mico.com/sites/default/files/document-pdfs/81001017Residual%20Pressure%20Valve.pdf I feel smarter now. Good luck dreco.

Just noticed that the MC I showed appears to have residual pressure valves, aka "check valves". I need to "upgrade" my brakes so I can learn more stuff.

Found a few things. Interesting. Seems likely for dreco. Carry on. http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=8&Itemid=16 http://www.championtrailers.com/content/remove-residual-valve-instructions.pdf http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/residual-check-valve.html

Miles, how do these residual pressure valves work and what is their purpose? Just trying to learn something. Are they spring-loaded check valves, that release back to the reservoir at some set pressure? Seems like an odd thing, maybe meant to work with certain parts.

Typical MC at rest. 1980 280ZX Tokico brand.

When the rod in the MC is back to its proper starting position it's impossible to hold any pressure in the hydraulic system. The formerly pressurized system is completely open to the atmosphere. Unless the cap on the reservoir is sealed and has all vent holes blocked. It's just the way they're designed. You can see it in the drawings. Unless, apparently, you have one of the special ones described above.

The rod from the pedal to the booster, in the cabin, might be too long. Not allowing fluid back in to reservoir. It's been discussed many times if you want to search around. "Sticking brakes", "brakes won't release", etc. If this was the case, pulling the clevis pin on the brake pedal should release the pads without opening the bleed valves. If it's the booster, then loosening the MC from the booster should do the same. A quick check of the mechanical pieces.