NewZed

I don't really know how that site works. It did tell me that the Whitehead link was saved one time on January 28, 2013. Probably by me in a Hybridz thread. Arizonazcar was saved 107 times and none of the old snapshots show the diff mount. It was referenced in the other thread so the picture was there at that time. Not sure the Wayback snapshot shows the old data or the new.

It is a nice-looking car though. Too bad the photographer couldn't fit the whole thing in the frame.

Determine what parts you're running. Stock springs, cut stock springs, lowering springs (brand), "coilovers", shocks (dampers, struts), etc. All your picture shows is a car and some tires.

Just noticed that your picture in #5 has the center brace up to the body. That changes everything. I think that other stuff is in the way though, so not as simple as it seems.

Looks like the mount you're using is the TTT mount. Surprising that they sell that. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car Arizona Z Car has (had?) another mount style. It had some minor issues, Word was that they were working on another design. Might be worth a call. Or you could fab up something similar. It puts the diff nose load perpendicular to pieces that can handle it. He used to have pictures on his site but they're gone now. Maybe working on a patent or something. Or maybe they have problems. Who knows. Here's where the pictures used to be - http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html Used to be here also - http://whiteheadperformance.com/1971-datsun-240z-restomod-rear-suspension-build-wilwood-arizona-z-car/#prettyPhoto Somebody's cleaning up their IP path.

This actually sounds more like an ignition problem. Put the points back on and see what happens. No need to buy a complete distributor.

Doesn't sound like an ignition problem. You'll be wasting money if you don't do some better diagnostic work. You'll get much better advice too if you add more information. "Mostly" stock 71 240Z with Crane XR3000 ran great now dies in neutral. Distributor has play. Not much to work with. Certainly not enough to go buy a new distributor.

That's for the short nose R200 or R230. Not a great design. The nose of the diff is lifting on a short lever arm, with the mounting bolts in to the frame as fulcrums (fulcra). It's been critiqued (criticized?) before. Make a better title, with the diff style in it, and a description and you might get some recommendations.

No pictures of the destruction? Guaranteed to get more responses. Assuming that you have an RTZ style mount and the bolts are tearing the holes? Or is it something else?

You missed my point. It depends on which type of 260 you have. And what you mean by "major": Can't tell what those last few words above mean. And the turbo engines come in 280ZX's. Another completely different body design. So if you're buying a 280ZX donor, the engine and drivetrain is about all you'll get out of it. Your project. You can research before you spend or after. Cheaper and more effective to do it before. And if you knew it was a common question, why ask it? Doesn't make sense. Just saying...

Here's an interesting thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/55119-making-my-own-efi-intake-system/ Seems like you're interested in just piecing a bunch of parts together to see what happens (re your Mix and match thread). Like a rat-rod, but instead a "rat-engine". There's a lot more thought and design work that goes in to making something that works well. Probably get some good WTF!'s when you're done though. Here are some good coments about just one 240SX TB - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54029-240sx-throttle-body-on-a-280z-l28/ 6x60= 360

Brake and axle questions are frequent. Lots of good stuff in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) sub-forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/38-faqs/ There are two 260Z's - 240Z=like body and 280Z-like body. Suspension and drivetrain parts vary depending on which you have. And the other parts are a blend between the two models.

No expert, but if you break the system down in to its parts you might figure something out. Yours has a CAS which produces a signal, an ECU which then uses that signal, to produce a spark. I would confirm that you have a CAS signal first. It looks from your other forum thread that you're not really sure how your CAS is wired, or what it's supposed to do. It might show in your log files, but I didn't look through them. Probably wouldn't know what I was looking at anyway. I put three things in order here: "DIY autotune 12-1 Trigger disk (83 distributor using CRANK output to trigger, no pullup resistor in line, I belive Matt wired it through TACout)" ECU BIP373s wired for Wasted Spark using Ford COP (Continuity checks out)

Should run off battery power for a short while, with a good charged battery. For a test drive.

Try working through the Fuel Injection Guide. You can't fudge your way throguh the EFI system. You need to get everything set back to factory levels. Might be too late for the AFM. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php And work through the FSM chapters. You haven't even confirmed that basic things like cam timing are correct. Engine Mechanical chapter. Who rebulit the engine?

You might also add a condenser/capacitor to the W wire. The HEI module is supposed to work from zero crossing, positive to negative. But in the the ignitor swap it's actually working from positive TO zero, the ECU signal. So it's not quite right for the application and might be more susceptible to noise. Just a guess. I've fixed tachometer problems with an extra condenser. You might also move the ground point for W farther away, and/or just make sure it's a good ground. Maybe move the whole assembly away from the coil to reduce potential noise.

You might switch the G and W wires. The pictures in Skittle's zcar.com writeup are gone so can't tell what he found that worked. But in normal use, if you get G and W swapped, timing will be off. It won't hurt anything, but it might just make the triggering more consistent. If you want to be sure that it's tied to the HEI module, put the old ignitor back on and see if the new problem goes away.

Cause, effect, correlation? Did you install the module to fix the 2000 PRM problem, or for some other reason? Why did you install the module, and what was it doing before you installed it? Describe the engine management system also. That will help.

Don't get distracted. Tony D often assumes the worst and misses the details. It was obvious from your latest posts that you did go back to square one, properly. He might come back with some defensive comments, so be ready. Add an addendum to your verse, or pick another one. I like the one you chose though, it works on the internet.. The hints he was giving are about the gear on the drive shaft. It's a press fit and can slip. If it did you might find that adjusting a tooth one way puts you on one side of the timing mark tab, and one tooth the other way puts you on the other side. I'm just guessing, I don't know how many degrees one tooth gives, you'd have to do some math. Don't forget that the distributor turns at half crank speed. It sounds like your saying that timing is too advanced and can't be retarded. So you would want to rotate the CAS wheel in the direction of rotation so that spark happens later. The CAS hole hits the light beam later. While you have it out, check the gear for a mark also and see if it lines up with a mark on the shaft. I'm just guessing again, but I seem to remember looking at some later shafts that had that. Engine parts are made to be assembled by line workers so often have extra markings. You might also, before you spend too much time on it, try removing the clamping screw so the CAS can move farther and setting timing correctly for a test run. Use a small c-clamp or some vise-grips temporarily in place of the screw. To your earlier point of "if it works doesn't mess with it". You might find that getting the mark on the tab doesn't work for you anyway.

You're right. Got lost on the edges. So if he knows stock wheel offset, he knows what he wants to know, from the table of dimensions. Factory numbers, not worn-out car measurements.

Dang. I guess the charts are inconclusive then. If a 195 and 175 width tread give the same tread, I assumed zero offset. Otherwise, the extra 20 mm would be a + or a - to tread. Unless by "tread", Nissan means WMS to WMS. Maybe a translation problem. I don't know why they'd spec. tread based on tire, and show one tread, but two tire sizes. Or maybe "tread" generally means WMS to WMS in car suspension world. Better than a crossword puzzle..

Pretty sure you can logic-out that tread width = what you're looking for. Two tires, different widths = zero offset. Zero offset means tread width = WMS-to-WMS. Measured from tread center. Zero offset. It's the only way to make the facts coherent. Note the note about "at curb weight". Tread width changes. Edit - changed same to different.

But is the timing mark in the proper range now? Tony D's hints may still be in play. I learned something about the turbo engines. Win-win.

Nissan called out a "tread" width, with certain tires. Might be a useful number. Your track width differences don't seem to match though. Only a 0.3" difference. You have 1.5". Typo?