NewZed

No one is interested in this fantastic new HEI multispark (2 sparks!) product in a super-small form factor?! I sent Pertronix an e-mail asking for specifications and instructions and these two files are all I got. I wonder if they accidentally got two sparks when they finished the rev-limiter algorithm and couldn't get rid of the second one. Can't have two strong sparks from a system that's already at its limit for multi-cylinder high-RPM. Must be two half-strength sparks. Just carrying on with my cynical views...

The resistor is for the 6 volt ignition system. It's the ballast resistor before the coil. If you're not using the stock 240Z coil then you probably don't need the resistor. The answer will only be simple if your stuff matches someone else's exactly. Otherwise, you'll have to post a picture or description of all of your parts and let someone tell you how to connect everything.

There's a lot of parts up there. What are they made of? Are they oily? How far apart were things and were they stock parts? Might be a strut internal part. Did you intentionally spell "ass" in your picture? Clever. Ass feet - eeww..

There's always the old fashioned way - turn the key to a spot and measure continuity though the switch. Why rely on wire colors when you don't have to?

This one is close except for Green/Blue instead of Green/White. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1970_240z.gif

Post some links to the information you've seen. Otherwise you'll get in to one of those "already saw that" loops. Might help to describe your new fuse panel and what you've done to the car also.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120421-l28-350z-6-speed-transmission-adapters/

Just came across this new Pertronix product. Lots of words but only one number - two, for two sparks per combustion event. Anyone know anything about it? I've thought that Pertronix was mostly hype these days, but this would be something if it was real. But I would also expect a real engineering-based form to show some data. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=164 http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7meo/pertronix-flame-thrower-hei-iii-ignition-performance

You should make this your signature. The 83 engine and transmission should swap in directly. You implied though, that you'll be using the 79 manual transmission since you mentioned another ECU. If you use the 79 transmission, everything behind it will remain the same. If you use the 83 transmission, use the 83 propeller shaft. The 83 ECU will probably work with the 79 manual transmission. If you want to see which parts are the same between the two models, check the FSM's.

If you can, re-title your post to say "LSX swap parts" or something similar. I ignored your post when I first saw it because it looked like another ill-informed person asking a simple question. "Parts gathering" - boring!

Weird how some threads can get totally messed up.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters of each year FSM. If you don't feel comfortable figuring out where the power's coming from you might want to rethink it. But it looks like they didn't change the relays until 1978. Your information in Post #1 about the relays doesn't seem to be right. So 1975-76 should be a match for your car. You might even end up with spare parts. Get other parts like the ignition module and distributor if they seem in good shape. Thermostat housing, water pump, etc. All worth a look.

To be clear - there will be a few wires that are different. You'll have to figure them out. But the basics, like the AFM, injectors, fuel rail, etc. will all fit.

You never really asked a question, but the EFI system should work fine on your engine. It should bolt and plug right in. Make sure you get the EFI/pump relay from under the dash, or make sure that your 77 EFI relay is still there. The EFI harness is essentially a stand alone harness with just a few connections to the main harness.

Your real question might be "will the four hole R200 pinion companion flange swap with the six hole R230 pinion companion flange?". I'm guessing.

R230 Final Drive and Propeller Shaft Companion Flange 1996 300ZX

Nissan calls the differential the "Final Drive".

I see now. Seems simple enough though, They're called companion flanges, because they have companions. Get the propeller shaft that goes with the diff.

Which block? http://theshopmag.com/features/499-mopar-build-part-1 There's a reference somewhere on the site to a 440 in a Z. BRAAP's dad I believe. Actually close to you in Sandy. It was a while ago though. Get ready to spend.

Lots of good information in the FSM's is you can't get an answer here. Most consider the propeller shaft flange to be the "pinion" flange. You seem to be talking about the side shafts. Nissan used both 5 and 6 bolt flanges for the short-nose R200. They might have done the same for the R230. Check the PD chapters. And note that they had both R200 and R230 as options for some model years. Also, the R230 is noticeably more massive than the R200. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

You might break some bolts off in the head, or in the thermostat housing itself. Be careful and try to avoid that. The bolts tend to rust in their holes from slight coolant leakage over the miles and get stuck tight. I'd run the engine and get it nice and warm, then try to ease the bolts out. A hot head and housing will expand the holes and give you the best shot.

I'll plug JMortensen's past work. Information is so easy to find these days that people don't look for it anymore. Very ironic. Not far down the first post - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/