NewZed

Watch the tachometer needle. It will tell you if you're losing spark. If you're in gear coasting, powerless, and the needle shows spark from the engine spinning, it's probably a fuel problem.

75-77 uses the fuel pump relay switch in the AFM. Some 78 AFMs also come with the switch, just not used. Post some test numbers and a description of what's "bad" and somebody might be able to help you out. You'll need a meter and knowledge of how to use it for Megasquirt anyway. Get some practice.

A clue for you - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/32-nissan-l6-forum/ What is Zeroyon?

Because this thread will be just one more of all of those you've read. Same people saying the same things. You need to reason it out and the answer will make sense when you're done.

Can't you read those various threads and posts and tell who knows what they're talking about and who's just talking like Ace Ventura? Does nobody have the ability to draw a conclusion anymore?

Sorry, I didn't get it. My mistake. Thought you meant 280ZXT flanges. Good luck. BUT. You could get some plain old factory 280ZX axles, for the CV cars, turbo or 2+2, and swap those in. Here's a write-up. http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html

Apparently there's a lot of mythology out there, for all engines really, not just the L6 about what adds power. TB, AFM, CR - all suspect. BRAAP summarized these and added some fact-based reality in a past post. Not much dissent from his opinions. Worth reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ And all of these threads have value - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

As I understand things, the 240Z and 280ZX use the same diameter and spline count. People swap in 280ZX axles for 240Z, by modifying the dust shield. The 280Z is different. So the 280ZXT adapter might work.

Here's where the coolant showed up on mine. Flat spot on the back corner of the block deck. No heater hoses in the way because I was removing the engine.

Stick your head down on the passenger side and look across the mating surface between head and block. You might get a better view.

It's not uncommon in the racing world. Why would you go with points if you can have electronic? Make a spreadsheet and put some cost estimates in for each item. The sum will be interesting.

Use an editing tool to mark up your photo. Can't really tell which dark spots are from a leak. The Snipping Tool in Windows Accessories is a good one. I had an HG leak on the passenger side, in the back. It would leak down over the starter and transmission while the engine heated up then seal itself once everything got hot. Stopleak helped for a while until it all extruded out of the gap. There's also a core plug in the back of the head that can leak. But external HG leaks aren't uncommon.

Here's a source - http://www.datsunstore.com/drivetrain-differentials-shafts-c-202_216_244.html?page=2&sort=2a

Those are 280ZX Turbo axles. Also used on the 2+2, I think. Put an ad in Parts Wanted for six hole 280ZXT CV axles. and you might find some used ones. Some parts stores might have them also but apparently the remans get their lengths all mixed up and people end up with axles that are two long. Be careful. Or there's the internet.

What kind of car? How many holes?

TDC is where the piston sites. The point of what you're doing is to get the camshaft in the right position to match the piston position. That's why there are adjustment holes in the camshaft sprocket. You should be thinking "all I need to do is rotate the camshaft slightly, with the piston at TDC, until the notch of the sprocket aligns with the groove on the retaining plate". That's why all of those marks are put there by Nissan. If you move everything slowly you could rotate the camshaft back and forth and until a valve touches a piston with no damage. Just for fun. There's room.

You said that the sprocket has already been on, just with the dowel in the wrong hole. Therefore there is enough slack available. Use the logic force Luke. Turn the camshaft.

The AFM pump relay switch needs air flow also. Get clean wires from the AFM to the ECU on that high resistance 8-9 circuit, and the hose, and it will probably run fine.

I have one that has about the same 6-8 and 8-9 values. 234/130 = 1.8, as does 180/100. I'm not an expert on what the ECU does with the values but the ratio is is the same. Get the AFM boot connected, and check the wring harness from the AFM to the ECU. There must be some resistance along the way. It will probably at least control the engine if you can get those same values at the ECU. Then you can decide if it's bad enough to need a new one. The old AFM's tend to run lean, popping back through the intake and hesitating when accelerating. There's a fix for that. The fuel pump problem would probably have something to do with your EFI / fuel pump combined relay. It's a 1x1x2" silver box above the hood release handle. Above the driver's left leg. There's a test procedure for that in the books also.

Methinks you need to remove the AFM and test at the pins. You'll be removing it anyway. Maybe you've already had it sitting in front of you. The pin numbers are molded in to the connector base. Test resistance right at the pins of the AFM. Do it before you buy another. Besides that, you're not understanding how the AFM works at all. How will the vane in the AFM move if there's no air flow through it? Logic it out. "(theres no afm -> TB boot installed on it yet)."

Take the wedge out and see where you're at. You're just wasting time until you do that. Forget about the links, those are for new chain installation. Nissan made things complicated by offering too many instructions. Rotate the camshaft to get the dowel in the hole you want, then take the wedge out and check for the proper orientation of marks. The marks are there to show if everything is correct. If the sprocket is mounted, the tensioner can't come out. If you need to readjust, put the wedge back in and start over.

Your wedge is probably taking up too much chain. The driver's side of the chain needs to be straight from sprocket to sprocket. Like it would be when the engine is running. With the sprocket bolted on you can remove the wedge, then rotate the camshaft backward using your pliers to tighten the chain. That will probably get you on the mark.

The switch just controls the other pickup in the distributor. It advances timing when the engine is cold. It's not necessary. Post better information on how you're testing, pin numbers with resistance readings, and what tools you're using. You didn't say if you tested the AFM itself after you tested "through the harness". Assuming that means at the ECU connector. Could be that you just have a dirty connection, or a bad meter. They'll still be there after you buy a new AFM. Some of the tests don't matter for engine operation, some do. Need the exact test with exact numbers. " most readings through the ECU harness have returned normal, though the AFM tests are reading fairly high. EFI bible called for 100-180 ohms for different AFM readings, mine measured well over 200 on all of the measurements, even close to 300ohms during some test."

SJ, I looked around to see about the C clips/snap rings/circlips and can only find part numbers for late model cars, like 2003 and up. But I did find a couple of interesting sites. Don't know what you'd measure to spec. the ring, but it might be informative. Because it shows a set of clips - http://forums.nicoclub.com/obx-300zx-lsd-with-halfshafts-bearings-t590228.html and a link it led me too, because they sell a variety - http://www.arconring.com/wire-snap-rings/

Went around in a circle and found you. Post #479. Good luck. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95789-seattlejesters-1971-240z/page-24