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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Must be this car? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112393-datsun-260z-turbo-s15-6-speed-technotoytuning/page-12?do=findComment&comment=1159965 Turbo L6?
  2. NewZed
    No torque-HP data plot cross at 5250 RPM? Those curves seem really smooth and oddly shaped also.
  3. NewZed
    Because turning the AFM vane by hand fixed the problem, whatever it is, doesn't mean that the AFM is the cause of the problem. The old problem may not be related to the new problem. I would troubleshoot more. Could be a simple holed FPR diaphragm.
  4. NewZed
    johnc measured some half-shafts and posted on them a while ago. Here's an excerpt from the Beta Motor Sports article he wrote. I have a free yoke and if I add it's length (1.442" from flange surface to bearing cup hole) to his numbers, I get those shown. He also got a difference of 7/8" side-to-side although his arms were at 7.5 degrees. I think that you got your driver-passenger backward. Driver: 12 .375" + (2*1.442) = 15.259 = 15 1/4" Passenger: 13.25 + (2*1.442) = 16.134 = 16 1/8" "In a R200 installtion, with the lower control arms about 7.5 degrees from parallel to the ground, the driver's side halfshaft's length is 12 3/8" while the passenger side halfshaft's length is 13 1/4". " And, for an R200, the halfshafts should be essentially perpendicular to the hub, or parallel to each other. It's the early 240Z with an R180 that has the diff mounted forward, and the shafts angled back Just reference points. I've wanted to work out the flange-to-flange distance when in the car anyway. More numbers to work with.
  5. NewZed
    Did you look in the little hole for fuel? http://documents.holley.com/199r8108-2rev4.pdf https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/classic_holley/parts/0-8007
  6. NewZed
    BMW's using it in their Safety car. It must be safer. http://m-power.com/_open/s/varlink2.jsp?id=3301&lang=en
  7. NewZed
    So the detail of what you're wondering about is if a 90.5 mm diameter fire ring will seal on an 83 mm bore. I would guess that it would if the sealing surfaces are flat and solid. I don't have the experience to say but I think that's the heart of the question. Kameari only offers 87 and 90.5 options anyway (maybe. Their web site shows 86 in one place and 87 in another) . You're 1.75 mm farther away with the 90.5 than with the 87. The dead space can be a bother but I think it will fill up with carbon quickly. Again, just a guess. http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-metal-headgasket/
  8. NewZed
    Part number? Link?
  9. NewZed
    Never mind, mistake. Erased previous comment. Might just be poor quality on the aftermarket FPR. It might still wear in though, with time. Probably best though, If you confirm that it's the 280ZX FPR, to take it back and exchange it. They're not supposed to leak down.
  10. NewZed
    You could block the return line and test that way, or block a port on the 76 FPR and put it back on. Or you could just use it for a while and see if the new FPR settles in. Might have some surface rust inside, if "new" means "new old stock". I'd drive it for a while and see what happens. Won't hurt anything. Might be aggravating. If it's leaking at an injector you'll probably notice it's very rich on starting. Might even foul a plug.
  11. NewZed
    Not normal for a factory FPR. Did you switch FPR's or use the same one? It would only take a small piece of rubber or teflon tape to hold the seat open in the FPR. Some old FPR's will occasionally lose pressure but hold most of the time or vice-versa. It looks like maybe you only checked once before and once after. You don't give much detail. Regardless, it will only affect starting the engine quickly.
  12. NewZed
    Did you try rotating the wheels back to where they started? Did you rotate the wheels or did a shop? Going back to square one would tell if it's the wheels or the front end parts, or if something got damaged. Another thing people do is to put on a different set of wheels. If you have them available. A couple of spare tires on the front end might be informative. Might be too late, since you've already torn things apart, but if you end up in the same dilemma in the future, worth a thought.
  13. NewZed
    He's probably past this already and trying to figure out how to get the gear back on, because the chain seems too tight.
  14. NewZed
    Grab the gear and stick it on, with the camshaft dowel in the gear hole. Turn the gear and the shaft until the notch and groove line up. Remove the gear. Install the head. Don't make it complicated. The riskiest part is letting the head slip off of whatever you're working on and landing on a valve head. Let your eyes tell you if it's right. If there's a valve sticking out and about to go in to a hole with the piston at the top, that's wrong. If you need leverage on the head because it's free, take a piece of steel or wood and drill a hole or two in it. Bolt it to the bottom of the head as a handle. If you can't move the gear, put the bolt in and use a wrench on the bolt. But you'll have to shock the bolt head loose to remove since it will have tightened and will want to turn the shaft when you try to get it back out. A dead blow hammer, hammer, sledge, piece of 2x4, tapped on the wrench handle should do it. Go slow and look at how the parts fit together.
  15. NewZed
    There's a notch and a groove. Picture in the manual. The factory one. EM.
  16. NewZed
    How to tell that it's at TDC or how to turn the camshaft? You can use a wrench on the flat sections of the cam shaft, or some pliers. You can just hold the sprocket up to where it would go and check orientation of the sprocket notch. You can also measure how far the valves stick from the bottom of the head and compare to the holes they go in.
  17. NewZed
    The answer to your question about duration is on page 8. Degreeing the cam would at least tell you if it's installed correctly. You still haven't answered the questions about the rest of the engine. Compression ratio, engine management, timing (maybe you just need to set the ignition timing correctly), etc. The very basic stuff. No point in swapping cams without addressing the basics. That's all I have. Good luck.
  18. NewZed
    https://www.lunatipower.com/PDF/Lunati-Catalog.pdf
  19. NewZed
    Spend some time on this site - http://www.diyautotune.com/
  20. NewZed
    They're just wires. You don't need to do anything, just do what you want.
  21. NewZed
    cygnusx1 did a ton of legwork and shared it. If cygnusx1's diagram isn't close enough, then nobody's will be (did you even look at it?). And you don't need to stay outside, bring the 300ZX shaft in to your nice warm home. The dimensions you need are on the CV shaft. Or take the shaft and the drawing to whoever is doing this work so cheaply for you. Your best band-aid for getting back on the road might be to use the u-joint half-shafts, with R200 open-diff axle shafts. Clip-in, bolt-in, and cheap.
  22. NewZed
    This guy says RB crank bolts are a problem. http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/
  23. NewZed
    Here's another thought, since you're welding - buy some junkyard 300ZXT companion flanges and cut the flange off. Fit them to your Z car companion flanges. Weld.
  24. NewZed
    These guys would probably make you one if they don't already. Four 300ZXT-spaced holes, instead of six 108mm CV holes. Still spendy. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/nissan-datsun-510-240z-4-bolt-axle-flange-to-108mm-cv-conversion-plate-rear-axle
  25. NewZed
    Here's some good stuff on cage materials. Apparently there's some compromising involved depending on application. I wonder if a new cage would get you back to where you started, or if the races and balls have too much play due to wear. #4. http://driveshaftshop.com/blog/?p=567 The fact that the cages are worn on both sides makes you wonder also though, if there was enough travel available in the first place. Just wondering, don't know much.
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