NewZed

As I understand the 930 design, they can change length by both means. The CV joint has a range, and the axle splines have a range. Some people lock the joint on the spline and just use the CV range. Or let the joint float for more range. But if the joint floats on the splines then the splined surfaces become loaded sliding surfaces with all of those inherent problems. You'd need to know how Joe built his axles to know what to worry about. And comparing the range of lengths is apples-to-apples. Too short is too short, too long is too long. Just sayin'... Speculative answers is why people post questions in the forums. New ideas. The more the better.

Some people with adjustable control arms just move the hubs out to get clearance for the stock shaft lengths. But that changes the track width. So plans of usage for the car matter.

The size of the ring gear is definitely a limiting factor. It's about leverage. But the too hot for an ungloved hand, maybe not so relevant. That's not very hot. I love a good reason to go dig up some obscure information though. I'm sure the diff got much hotter than too hot for a hand. http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20100020960.pdf

The control arm may be broken but the casting at the bottom of the strut assembly is also, for sure. You need another. You should probably put the suspension link mounts back where they were also. I'd guess that someone thought it was a good idea to make room for the back of the diff through moving the dogbone down by dropping the hangers and the control arm mounts. But that changes the geometry of the suspension movement. Wouldn't be surprised if the "shock" shafts in the strut tubes were bent also. The angle of the strut is changed. The front mounts would have to be dropped also. Are they?

That was your L wire. Light Emitting Diode. The diode fixes a different problem.

Never mind.

It would help to know also how he made the diff axles. Looks like he probably got a 930 flange axle blank and machined the splined end. There are different spline shapes out there, some loose, some tight. Could affect strength and the way they drive. The older R200 shaft splines are pretty loose and that's part of what makes them clunky. Nissan tightened things up in the later VLSD diffs. Looks interesting, I hope he got the details right. Not trying to be negative, that's just the stuff that I look at. Good luck.

It would be useful to know the range of length for both the 930 style CV axles and the Z31's. RZ has to change axles because the range is limited with the Z31 axle. If you had the actual low end and high end for both that would be even more useful. Flange to flange, compressed and extended. Guys like Joe should put those numbers on their web pages.

The "L" wire at the "T" plug on the back of the alternator is not getting power when the key is On. Make power go there. If the Charge Lamp blows, you'll lose that power supply. Might be a wiring problem, might just be a bad bulb. I'm not familiar with the 1975 system though. If you do find power at L then a bad alternator is likely.

You want this then - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121613-s30-ultimate-88-irs-swap-kit/?do=findComment&comment=1137567

The Chequered Flag Joe kit is probably the way to go then, if you can confirm that he checked everything for binding. That's the problem people run in to. Or pulling the axles out of the diff because the CV's are too short. That's the other problem. Also it's not clear that the new axles are stronger than the factory axles. You haven't said though, that you're looking for stronger, so who knows. Here's his other web page - http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html Call him up.

I wonder if you could add diesel to E10 to get back to the energy content of old formula gasoline? The volatility loss might not let it work though. On the previous point about solvent effectiveness - it depends on what's being dissolved. On the idea of using phase separation with water to pull ethanol from E10 - you'll probably end up with less ethanol in the fuel but more water, and still some ethanol. And the hydrocarbon portion of the fuel will be fully loaded with as much water as it can hold. A few heating-cooling cycles in the tank and moisture from the air that gets pulled in will start phase separating to the bottom of your tank.

That's the "hanger" for where the back two bushings of the control arms mount. The "dog bone" connects them. Basically angling the control arm down at the back unless work was done on the front also. Maybe why the spindle bolt broke out of the hub. Seems like it would be torquing the top of the strut also, at the insulator. Not a suspension guy so more thought would be required to venture more. The ugly welds caught my eye. Maybe it's actually the stock position... Edit #2 - Added a picture of stock position. That piece of square stock is not stock, as I thought. Edit #3 - the mustache bar seems to be on backward also, for the R180. Maybe it's all part of the R230 setup...

Saw some odd things on the back end (besides the split open "fuel cell").. The rear mounts for the suspension look like they've been dropped with some square bar pieces. One of the hub castings looks split or broken or ground off. Hard to tell what it is, but I don't think that you should be able to see the spindle bolt. Maxima calipers. Maybe some companion flanges came with the car and that's why they're missing on the hubs. Looks like plain old rusty 240Z axles though. Seems pretty solid, otherwise. Edit - on second glance it looks like the spindle bolt broke out of that casting. Must have been quite a blow or maybe the modified mounts put things in a bind. You should take a good look at what's happened or happening back there.

You're going to need a bigger phone.

Can't remember if you're one of the numerous guys with V8's looking to "upgrade" parts, or of you still have an L6. Or if it's a 240, 260 or 280Z. But there's a fairly simple method to get 280ZX CV shafts in the back of a 240Z. If that's what you have. You should probably list "every single piece" also. There's a lot of pieces back there.

If you had KYB's or Tokicos in the tubes then this isn't relevant. I just remember an assemblage of parts hanging from a rod when I took apart my factory struts. Still have them if anyone wants them.

1981 has no AFM switch.

You might not be understanding when the pump gets power. Take some meter readings. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Edited for wrong year chart. (Still no AFM switch, they stopped that in 1978).

No one is interested in this fantastic new HEI multispark (2 sparks!) product in a super-small form factor?! I sent Pertronix an e-mail asking for specifications and instructions and these two files are all I got. I wonder if they accidentally got two sparks when they finished the rev-limiter algorithm and couldn't get rid of the second one. Can't have two strong sparks from a system that's already at its limit for multi-cylinder high-RPM. Must be two half-strength sparks. Just carrying on with my cynical views...

The resistor is for the 6 volt ignition system. It's the ballast resistor before the coil. If you're not using the stock 240Z coil then you probably don't need the resistor. The answer will only be simple if your stuff matches someone else's exactly. Otherwise, you'll have to post a picture or description of all of your parts and let someone tell you how to connect everything.

There's a lot of parts up there. What are they made of? Are they oily? How far apart were things and were they stock parts? Might be a strut internal part. Did you intentionally spell "ass" in your picture? Clever. Ass feet - eeww..

There's always the old fashioned way - turn the key to a spot and measure continuity though the switch. Why rely on wire colors when you don't have to?

This one is close except for Green/Blue instead of Green/White. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1970_240z.gif

Post some links to the information you've seen. Otherwise you'll get in to one of those "already saw that" loops. Might help to describe your new fuse panel and what you've done to the car also.