NewZed

Connect the yellow wire to the starter solenoid. Put some fuel in the tank. "cannot start the engine" could mean that you lost the key. More details needed.

A guy on zcar.com spent almost a week trying put a reman ZX booster in his Z. He got two mislabeled parts in a row. With reman parts, it's best to assume there's a problem and verify everything.

What's being adapted? And those are companion flanges in your pictures, I believe. The other half is called the axle.

"go to start it nothing happens" means turn the key to Start but the starter does not work? The engine does not turn over, the starter does not even click? Or something else?

Did you pull the coil wire while you were working on the engine? Maybe it's just not seated in the coil. It happens.

Just a comment on combustion chamber design. One of those small bothersome things. The "quench" concept is supposed to give faster, more controlled "burn". Allowing a complete burn with less ignition timing. But the timing specs for 1978 (N47) and 1982 (P79/P90 design) are essentially the same. 29 degrees total centrifugal timing. There's a +/- 2 degrees on the 1982 specs., but the max is 29. Just seems odd that Nissan would redesign a head for quench and fast burn and not take advantage of it. There may be improvements but it doesn't look like quench is one of them. Could be that flat-top pistons are just cheaper to make and the head needed some improvements anyway. So they made the chamber bigger for that reason alone. Overall, the two type of engines, early 280Z with dished, and ZX with flat-tops don't seem very different. Your CR should be 8.8 with the P90, not really hideous. You'll have a common L28 engine with carbs. Should run great. "With the P90 I probably have the more direct route, but a hideously low CR unless I put some work into it."

This is always an interesting topic. I typed in "compression ratio benefits" on the Google and actually found what looks like a decent overview of the issue. It doesn't cover "quench", which is another factor in your choice, but it does cover a lot. Seems to be based on facts also. Edit - actually it does mention quench, with a few tips included. Your question would be about whether or not the N47 wth flat-tops is a good quench design. Or even if the P90 with flat-tops is. http://www.hotrod.com/events/coverage/0311em-power-squeeze/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120932-blower-motor-upgrade-kia-sportage/?hl=%2Bhonda+%2Bblower+%2Bmotor

Post links to the rest of the "bunch". I just saw a good one a short while ago, on this forum. Can't tell if you saw it too.

44 and 71 in this thread might be informative. Axles is hard to make... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107855-m2-z31-short-shaft-issue/page-3

Are you sure that's oil? It looks like coolant, mixed with stopleak. That's where the big passage is from block to head. I had a leak there.

That's a good one. Look at the step from the splines to the main shaft, on the 3x2 bolt pattern shafts. Viva's have a smaller step. Bigger splined shaft. But all of those in your picture look the same. Anyway, good to learn that there are pitfalls everywhere. Take your calipers to the wrecking yard.

My R200 comment was directed at Viva. He got a 280Z with an R200 instead of an R180.

To be clear, I was just making things up, I only know hwat I've read on the internet re R180's.. I'm only interested because it's supposed to be easy. It seems that either the 240Z R180 isn't stock, or the 720 R180 isn't stock. That seems to be the crux of the situation. The R200 axles shouldn't even be here. The difference in the shaft width to the spline shaft width (the step), is obvious in the pictures. Some Googling of 240Z R180 axles, and 720 axles should tell which is stock, and which is not.

Start with the basics - the gauge can not show anything if it's not connected. But it does show something, therefore it is connected. Either disconnect it, or connect it properly. Then go to work on the only other thing you can think of. Fix those wires you're not sure about. You don't even know which wires are connected to what, so no one can give you much advice.

Maybe your "later" R180 axle is too later. That's a CV joint bolt pattern. Could be a viscous diff, with CV's. Just a thought. Whatever they are, it just looks like you've assumed that you have certain parts, but you really don't have what you thought you had. If you set the R200 (280Z) axles, and the 720 truck axles aside and started over, you'd probably get to where you want to be.

Maybe that 720 180 is actually a 190. http://forums.nicoclub.com/rear-axle-question-t548684.html

The last one looks like a typical long nose R200 axle. They clip in. The circlip is inside the diff. Not sure about the spline counts but people get hub axle and diff axle spline counts confused often. Here's a link with some R180 stuff - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Lots of good stuff in the P&D chapters also - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Look at the 4th item down in the link below. "how to" start a new thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/ youtube is probably a better bet for finding instructions on something so generic.

Fuses only blow if something is not right. It's not a "normal" to use a car with blown fuses. Find the short.

On a 76 280Z non-working gauge lights is a sign that the tail light fuse is blown.

Make sure that the point where the bleeder passage enters the piston cylinder (it's drilled at an angle) is at the top. Where the bubble will be. Be the bubble.

It would depend on the head (combustion chamber size). The dished pistons will give ~7.4 with a P79 or P90 head, or 8.3 with a N42 or N47 head. The flat-tops will give 8.8 or ~10, respectively (calculator results vary on the last one, others are from the FSM's). Assuming no major machining done to the sealing surface. There's only two options and the flat-top's are labeled as flat-tops. The picture shows dished in the other link. They're just stock design replacements. Flat-tops http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d08/10-4080 Dished http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d08/10-4081

People have trouble bleeding brakes all the time. You might be over-analyzing (no jokes, please). Can you pump the pressure up? That could be air. How much play is there between the pedal and the MC piston moving (have someone watch the fluid in to and out of the reservoir). The volume of fluid moving in/out of the reservoir is a good sign of air in the system also. The volume is compressing the bubbles. Finally, most people do this MC conversion as part of other brake work. So, what other brake work did you do? Toyota calipers, maybe? Rear discs? They have their own issues.

The gland nut "seats" on the top of the shock body, inside the strut tube. It does not seat on the outer tube. The shock body fits up inside the gland nut. 1/8" is a normal gap, and a good sign.