NewZed

Are you sure that's oil? It looks like coolant, mixed with stopleak. That's where the big passage is from block to head. I had a leak there.

That's a good one. Look at the step from the splines to the main shaft, on the 3x2 bolt pattern shafts. Viva's have a smaller step. Bigger splined shaft. But all of those in your picture look the same. Anyway, good to learn that there are pitfalls everywhere. Take your calipers to the wrecking yard.

My R200 comment was directed at Viva. He got a 280Z with an R200 instead of an R180.

To be clear, I was just making things up, I only know hwat I've read on the internet re R180's.. I'm only interested because it's supposed to be easy. It seems that either the 240Z R180 isn't stock, or the 720 R180 isn't stock. That seems to be the crux of the situation. The R200 axles shouldn't even be here. The difference in the shaft width to the spline shaft width (the step), is obvious in the pictures. Some Googling of 240Z R180 axles, and 720 axles should tell which is stock, and which is not.

Start with the basics - the gauge can not show anything if it's not connected. But it does show something, therefore it is connected. Either disconnect it, or connect it properly. Then go to work on the only other thing you can think of. Fix those wires you're not sure about. You don't even know which wires are connected to what, so no one can give you much advice.

Maybe your "later" R180 axle is too later. That's a CV joint bolt pattern. Could be a viscous diff, with CV's. Just a thought. Whatever they are, it just looks like you've assumed that you have certain parts, but you really don't have what you thought you had. If you set the R200 (280Z) axles, and the 720 truck axles aside and started over, you'd probably get to where you want to be.

Maybe that 720 180 is actually a 190. http://forums.nicoclub.com/rear-axle-question-t548684.html

The last one looks like a typical long nose R200 axle. They clip in. The circlip is inside the diff. Not sure about the spline counts but people get hub axle and diff axle spline counts confused often. Here's a link with some R180 stuff - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Lots of good stuff in the P&D chapters also - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Look at the 4th item down in the link below. "how to" start a new thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/ youtube is probably a better bet for finding instructions on something so generic.

Fuses only blow if something is not right. It's not a "normal" to use a car with blown fuses. Find the short.

On a 76 280Z non-working gauge lights is a sign that the tail light fuse is blown.

Make sure that the point where the bleeder passage enters the piston cylinder (it's drilled at an angle) is at the top. Where the bubble will be. Be the bubble.

It would depend on the head (combustion chamber size). The dished pistons will give ~7.4 with a P79 or P90 head, or 8.3 with a N42 or N47 head. The flat-tops will give 8.8 or ~10, respectively (calculator results vary on the last one, others are from the FSM's). Assuming no major machining done to the sealing surface. There's only two options and the flat-top's are labeled as flat-tops. The picture shows dished in the other link. They're just stock design replacements. Flat-tops http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d08/10-4080 Dished http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d08/10-4081

People have trouble bleeding brakes all the time. You might be over-analyzing (no jokes, please). Can you pump the pressure up? That could be air. How much play is there between the pedal and the MC piston moving (have someone watch the fluid in to and out of the reservoir). The volume of fluid moving in/out of the reservoir is a good sign of air in the system also. The volume is compressing the bubbles. Finally, most people do this MC conversion as part of other brake work. So, what other brake work did you do? Toyota calipers, maybe? Rear discs? They have their own issues.

The gland nut "seats" on the top of the shock body, inside the strut tube. It does not seat on the outer tube. The shock body fits up inside the gland nut. 1/8" is a normal gap, and a good sign.

Here are some links to look at, showing the different bolt patterns and how the parts ift together, with labels. Seems like you should be able to swap companion flanges on a ZX to run CV's instead of u-joint shafts. I've never seen it described but it seems simple. People install 280ZX companion flanges (turbo or 2+2) in to 240Z hubs to run 280ZX CV shafts. Same concept. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/ra.pdf http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

How far? Details. You might try raising the front or back of the car to make sure the bleed screw is at the highest point. The bubble can sit at the high spot while fluid goes out the bleeder. It's a simple system, but small details can get you. Like I said did you check the slave cylinder boot and you said that you "checked for leaks". Might not be thorough enough. You have to remove the boot to know if the cylinder is leaking, the fluid will stay inside. So a glance at it by eye won't do it. Might take some thought and study to understand. If you replaced the clutch parts because your shift lever was wiggly, there's much to learn.

Are these new parts? Rebuilt? Was anything else done? Have you checked the slave cylinder boot to see if there's a leak? Did the old parts work? Why'd you replace them? Lots of detail missing. Have someone watch the slave cylinder rod and clutch fork while you push the pedal, or vice-versa.

Sounds like a weak fuel pump. A fuel pressure measurement would tell. Leave the gauge attached and look at it when the problem happens.

The shaft axles will swap in to the R200, but the flange on the other end might not bolt up. Depends on your hub axle companion flange bolt pattern.

Are you posting for yourself? How many dead threads are you going to try to resuscitate? And where are you getting all of this advice? 3 weeks ago you were asking how much power an L28 might make. Regurgitating and recycling internet knowledge as your own is not cool. The two posts above look like pure fabrication. You should stop doing that. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122898-all-streetability-aside-28l/

I'm not a suspension expert but I think that a well-designed wheel/car/suspension system never rubs. The wheel stops moving before rubbing occurs. So one solution for you might just be more or longer bump stops. This will stop the rubbing, and you can keep the look, but the ride will still suck because you don't have enough travel. That's one of your problems, besides spring and shock rates. Your parts don't work together.

Are they shown in the schematic but you don't know what they do? Or are they on the switch but not shown n the schematic? Are they #6 and #7, or one of the five. If you have a meter you could at least chem them for either ground or power.

Where do they rub? Which springs have you looked at so far? Make a list, so you can avoid the "already saw those" cycle. "Coilovers" only offer adjustable ride height, if they're the design that just moves the spring perch up or down. Otherwise, they use the spring the same as a fixed perch.

http://www.herningg.com/projects/groovyheads.html Edit - sorry for loading up your thread. I see that you decided to avoid the wild stuff. Good luck.