NewZed

"World class" just means "world-wide market". "Class" just means a market classification, not like "high class". Kind of off-topic but it is one of those things that shows if you want to sell a lot of something, give it a name that sounds good.

I think that johnc's point was that the 240Z tubes are different from the later 260Z and 280Z tubes. They're all S30's. Check the camber specs in the FSM's. The later S30's run more camber. Not much, but not the same.

Here's a source - http://www.datsunstore.com/transmission-manual-shift-c-203_206_357_431_435.html Pretty sure the dealer might have them also. The 3.9 gear tooth number was used on some 1980's pickups also if you want to check the wrecking yards.

A thought - put a long straight edge on the rotor and compare distances at the top of the tube. If it's angle they'll be different than 1/4", if it's hub depth it will still be 1/4".

How much?

At least you got the right sub-forum. Edited - your post makes me uncomfortable. Here's a good start that's often recommended - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ Buy the book.

Lots of generality and not much hard fact to go on. Kudos to those that tried but they're all shots in the dark. The SBC isn't that much heavier than the L6 although people think it is. An SBC with aluminum heads is lighter than full iron. No numbers at all on the ride height. Take a measurement. Tires have a huge impact on ride quality. The popular low profile tires are harsh. There are two types of 260Z bodies, early and late. They use different springs. Which body style do you have? "Coilovers" will only allow ride height adjustment. You'll have the same harsh ride if you don't get the right shocks, and springs, and bump stops, and set it all up right. Get some facts on what you really have and post those. A picture would help too.

It has to be about a spark plug gap's distance away from a ground point. It can be closer or farther but if you go with that distance you'll be able to see it and also know that it's not too far. If it's touching the ground point,of course, you won't see anything.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and see what's happening when the problem occurs. Leave it connected while you drive.

Connect the yellow wire to the starter solenoid. Put some fuel in the tank. "cannot start the engine" could mean that you lost the key. More details needed.

A guy on zcar.com spent almost a week trying put a reman ZX booster in his Z. He got two mislabeled parts in a row. With reman parts, it's best to assume there's a problem and verify everything.

What's being adapted? And those are companion flanges in your pictures, I believe. The other half is called the axle.

"go to start it nothing happens" means turn the key to Start but the starter does not work? The engine does not turn over, the starter does not even click? Or something else?

Did you pull the coil wire while you were working on the engine? Maybe it's just not seated in the coil. It happens.

Just a comment on combustion chamber design. One of those small bothersome things. The "quench" concept is supposed to give faster, more controlled "burn". Allowing a complete burn with less ignition timing. But the timing specs for 1978 (N47) and 1982 (P79/P90 design) are essentially the same. 29 degrees total centrifugal timing. There's a +/- 2 degrees on the 1982 specs., but the max is 29. Just seems odd that Nissan would redesign a head for quench and fast burn and not take advantage of it. There may be improvements but it doesn't look like quench is one of them. Could be that flat-top pistons are just cheaper to make and the head needed some improvements anyway. So they made the chamber bigger for that reason alone. Overall, the two type of engines, early 280Z with dished, and ZX with flat-tops don't seem very different. Your CR should be 8.8 with the P90, not really hideous. You'll have a common L28 engine with carbs. Should run great. "With the P90 I probably have the more direct route, but a hideously low CR unless I put some work into it."

This is always an interesting topic. I typed in "compression ratio benefits" on the Google and actually found what looks like a decent overview of the issue. It doesn't cover "quench", which is another factor in your choice, but it does cover a lot. Seems to be based on facts also. Edit - actually it does mention quench, with a few tips included. Your question would be about whether or not the N47 wth flat-tops is a good quench design. Or even if the P90 with flat-tops is. http://www.hotrod.com/events/coverage/0311em-power-squeeze/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120932-blower-motor-upgrade-kia-sportage/?hl=%2Bhonda+%2Bblower+%2Bmotor

Post links to the rest of the "bunch". I just saw a good one a short while ago, on this forum. Can't tell if you saw it too.

44 and 71 in this thread might be informative. Axles is hard to make... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107855-m2-z31-short-shaft-issue/page-3

Are you sure that's oil? It looks like coolant, mixed with stopleak. That's where the big passage is from block to head. I had a leak there.

That's a good one. Look at the step from the splines to the main shaft, on the 3x2 bolt pattern shafts. Viva's have a smaller step. Bigger splined shaft. But all of those in your picture look the same. Anyway, good to learn that there are pitfalls everywhere. Take your calipers to the wrecking yard.

My R200 comment was directed at Viva. He got a 280Z with an R200 instead of an R180.

To be clear, I was just making things up, I only know hwat I've read on the internet re R180's.. I'm only interested because it's supposed to be easy. It seems that either the 240Z R180 isn't stock, or the 720 R180 isn't stock. That seems to be the crux of the situation. The R200 axles shouldn't even be here. The difference in the shaft width to the spline shaft width (the step), is obvious in the pictures. Some Googling of 240Z R180 axles, and 720 axles should tell which is stock, and which is not.

Start with the basics - the gauge can not show anything if it's not connected. But it does show something, therefore it is connected. Either disconnect it, or connect it properly. Then go to work on the only other thing you can think of. Fix those wires you're not sure about. You don't even know which wires are connected to what, so no one can give you much advice.

Maybe your "later" R180 axle is too later. That's a CV joint bolt pattern. Could be a viscous diff, with CV's. Just a thought. Whatever they are, it just looks like you've assumed that you have certain parts, but you really don't have what you thought you had. If you set the R200 (280Z) axles, and the 720 truck axles aside and started over, you'd probably get to where you want to be.