NewZed
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Everything posted by NewZed
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Could be that the TOB collar is too tall as you thought, and that expansion when everything heats up is causing the slipping. If you let it cool and it starts working right, then slips when it gets warm, that would be a clue. If so, that can only be fixed with a shorter TOB collar. You have an odd assortment of parts so nobody can really give you a combination of parts that might work. With the stock flywheel, the collar ears (where the fork rides) should be 92 mm +/- a few from the surface of the flywheel (bottom of the pressure plate cover). I'd guess that Fidanza dimensioned theirs for a straight swap, so 92 should work for you too, but who knows for sure.
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Without knowing how many were sold these facts are meaningless.
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cog·ni·tive dis·so·nance nounPSYCHOLOGY the state of having inconsistent thoughts, beliefs, or attitudes, especially as relating to behavioral decisions and attitude change.
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Isn't the fuel added at the start of the runners? The pseudo-carb? Should be the same ratio for all, unless air is slipping by without picking up fuel then passing to individual runners unequally. With mulitport injection, you could see a runner air flow imbalance. but equal fuel injected for all, leading to varying AFR per cylinder.
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At the T plug. Your Megasquirt parts are going to be a lot more expensive than an old alternator, if they start smoking.
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Modern ECU's will hold the idle speed up to charge the battery, among other reasons. 2500 seems high but who knows what your algorithm is. And the idle speed was probably controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve. Lets air past the throttle blade, electrically controlled by the ECU.
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At last you're not focused on AFR's. From too wet to too dry. Still no plug examination. The old counting horse teeth without looking inside challenge...
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Then your plugs would be wet with fuel. Don't trust the gauge if you don't have to. You'd most likely smell gasoline also.
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You've been lulled in to the false sense that the computer or phone screen will tell you all that you need to know about the outside (inside in this case) world. Happens to all of us. I've found myself checking weather pages to see what's happening outside instead of just opening the door. Remove a spark plug and look at it to see if you're flooded. Use a timing light to see when spark happens. Check fuel pressure with a gauge. Real touchy-feely stuff, right at the actual engine.
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Rear stub axle bearing source?
NewZed replied to seattlejester's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I use this for the numbers - http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ Amazon has them. (2 x 32) + (2 x 17) + (2 x 6) = 110. Autozone too for a little more. Nissan probably has them also. -
Put it together, but only install two rocker arms. That way you'll only waste two valves, and dent one piston. Not positive but I think that valve guides can be damaged also. Clay is cheap. Worse comes to worst, it's hard to clean from the piston top. You know you should do this.
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Since this is just an opinion poll, I'm going to say no you will not have any problems. Let us know who was right.
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Better have that head from Datsun Parts/California Datsun/Al Allen checked out thoroughly. He's had some issues. At least two heads with the wrong lash pads, causing the cam lobes to ride off the ends of the rocker arm pads. Apparently Al is a likable guy but the people doing his work aren't experts.
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I don't know that it's a 100% guaranteed method, but those are real pictures of real transmissions. I've used both. Drawings of the plate are in the FSM MT chapters. Pretty obvious when you see it. Posted 76. Look in the 78 FSM for 78. It's smooth up there.
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It's probably the float valve, either missing or stuck open, or the floats aren't floating, or they're bent. If you hold the throttle blades open you'd probably see the fuel flowing. Pretty basic fix and check. Idea - take the Holley apart and reset the critical settings. There are probably more books and instructions and videos out there about Holleys than any other carburetor. Might as well rebuild it while it's apart.
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One other thing that gets left out on the binding issue is the bushings used for the differential. The stock rubber will allow a lot of side-to-side movement. The diff will get pushed to the side that has more room easily. They typical urethane locks the location down pretty well. Might be one explanation for the discrepancy in experiences.
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Seems like a lot of rust, considering the number of times you rotated things to make sure they weren't bound. Maybe you got lucky. Or maybe your wrench was set to inch-pounds.
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Clicking/ticking is the common bad CV joint noise. On front wheel drive cars you hear it all the time as they turn. You said that you had an R200 and CV axles and replaced it with a different R200 (the CLSD) and a different set of CV axles. Seems like you could put the other CV axles in, and give it a short test drive. If the noise stays it's probably the diff. If not, you damaged some axles.
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If you can't see the plate on the top look at the area around the speedo cable. Here are two pictures I took a while ago of my 76 4 speed and 78 5 speed. Trying to find a way to tell them apart from below. The 78 5 speed case is almost straight as it passes the speedo cable. 76 has a noticeable bend.
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How are the bushings in the shifter? If they're bad they'll let the lever move too far and it might bind up before it moves far enough. There's a round plastic one on the bottom and two at the fulcrum pin.
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You didn't fabricate some sort of flywheel locking device in order to torque the bolts did you and forget to remove it? You said "lock flywheel". Leave something in the oil pan? Get the oil pickup tube jammed in the crankshaft? You're looking where no work has been done. 1) Drop oil pan 2) Impact gun + thread on pulley puller to remove crank pulley bolt + washer 3) Remove front timing cover (anything else while the cover was off?) 4) Replace crank snout seal (seal installation screwed up somehow?) 5) Bolt front timing cover back in place with new gaskets (something got jammed?) 6) Bolt in AZC oil pan with new gasket (has it been removed and things checked yet?) 7) Lock flywheel and torque crank pulley bolt + washer back to ~100 ft-lb with loctite blue (flywheel locking method?) You have an odd situation...
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Just curious, but what exactly is getting pressure when you press the axle in to the differential? Does the internal clip let go and the axle moves inward? Or does the clip hold in that direction and the pressure is on the inner spline? Inner bearing races, axle dust shield? I don't have a good picture in my head of what's connected to what, or what the dimensions are.
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Does the lever move up in to the spot for 5th but nothing happens? Or does the lever just not go to that spot? Are you sure it's really a 5 speed? People switch knobs often.
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Undo the stuff you did between works and doesn't work. Damper pulley, oil pan, whatever else. That's what I'd do. Damper still looks most likely since it's on the crankshaft.
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Could also be that somehow you've jammed the damper up against the timing cover.
