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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Put it together, but only install two rocker arms. That way you'll only waste two valves, and dent one piston. Not positive but I think that valve guides can be damaged also. Clay is cheap. Worse comes to worst, it's hard to clean from the piston top. You know you should do this.
  2. NewZed
    Since this is just an opinion poll, I'm going to say no you will not have any problems. Let us know who was right.
  3. NewZed
    Better have that head from Datsun Parts/California Datsun/Al Allen checked out thoroughly. He's had some issues. At least two heads with the wrong lash pads, causing the cam lobes to ride off the ends of the rocker arm pads. Apparently Al is a likable guy but the people doing his work aren't experts.
  4. NewZed
    I don't know that it's a 100% guaranteed method, but those are real pictures of real transmissions. I've used both. Drawings of the plate are in the FSM MT chapters. Pretty obvious when you see it. Posted 76. Look in the 78 FSM for 78. It's smooth up there.
  5. NewZed
    It's probably the float valve, either missing or stuck open, or the floats aren't floating, or they're bent. If you hold the throttle blades open you'd probably see the fuel flowing. Pretty basic fix and check. Idea - take the Holley apart and reset the critical settings. There are probably more books and instructions and videos out there about Holleys than any other carburetor. Might as well rebuild it while it's apart.
  6. NewZed
    One other thing that gets left out on the binding issue is the bushings used for the differential. The stock rubber will allow a lot of side-to-side movement. The diff will get pushed to the side that has more room easily. They typical urethane locks the location down pretty well. Might be one explanation for the discrepancy in experiences.
  7. NewZed
    Seems like a lot of rust, considering the number of times you rotated things to make sure they weren't bound. Maybe you got lucky. Or maybe your wrench was set to inch-pounds.
  8. NewZed
    Clicking/ticking is the common bad CV joint noise. On front wheel drive cars you hear it all the time as they turn. You said that you had an R200 and CV axles and replaced it with a different R200 (the CLSD) and a different set of CV axles. Seems like you could put the other CV axles in, and give it a short test drive. If the noise stays it's probably the diff. If not, you damaged some axles.
  9. NewZed
    If you can't see the plate on the top look at the area around the speedo cable. Here are two pictures I took a while ago of my 76 4 speed and 78 5 speed. Trying to find a way to tell them apart from below. The 78 5 speed case is almost straight as it passes the speedo cable. 76 has a noticeable bend.
  10. NewZed
    How are the bushings in the shifter? If they're bad they'll let the lever move too far and it might bind up before it moves far enough. There's a round plastic one on the bottom and two at the fulcrum pin.
  11. NewZed
    You didn't fabricate some sort of flywheel locking device in order to torque the bolts did you and forget to remove it? You said "lock flywheel". Leave something in the oil pan? Get the oil pickup tube jammed in the crankshaft? You're looking where no work has been done. 1) Drop oil pan 2) Impact gun + thread on pulley puller to remove crank pulley bolt + washer 3) Remove front timing cover (anything else while the cover was off?) 4) Replace crank snout seal (seal installation screwed up somehow?) 5) Bolt front timing cover back in place with new gaskets (something got jammed?) 6) Bolt in AZC oil pan with new gasket (has it been removed and things checked yet?) 7) Lock flywheel and torque crank pulley bolt + washer back to ~100 ft-lb with loctite blue (flywheel locking method?) You have an odd situation...
  12. NewZed
    Just curious, but what exactly is getting pressure when you press the axle in to the differential? Does the internal clip let go and the axle moves inward? Or does the clip hold in that direction and the pressure is on the inner spline? Inner bearing races, axle dust shield? I don't have a good picture in my head of what's connected to what, or what the dimensions are.
  13. NewZed
    Does the lever move up in to the spot for 5th but nothing happens? Or does the lever just not go to that spot? Are you sure it's really a 5 speed? People switch knobs often.
  14. NewZed
    Undo the stuff you did between works and doesn't work. Damper pulley, oil pan, whatever else. That's what I'd do. Damper still looks most likely since it's on the crankshaft.
  15. NewZed
    Could also be that somehow you've jammed the damper up against the timing cover.
  16. NewZed
    If I'm reading right, the actions above are the last significant actions between when the crankshaft would turn and now, when it doesn't. Seems like the damper (I think you're calling it the crank pulley) reinstallation is the most likely cause. Maybe you jammed the woodruff key past its keyway in to whatever is behind it (I don't know what's behind it, I think more keys and keyways). 100 ft-lbs can do some jamming. Might try loosening the damper bolt or just removing the damper, then using the propeller shaft to rotate the engine. Put the car in gear and roll it. Inspect the woodruff key slots for damage first, might have to be fixed anyway.
  17. NewZed
    A too-long bolt in the thermostat housing will pin the timing chain guide to the chain and sprocket. The threaded hole is open on the back. Not uncommon. Don't forget the belted accessories also. Alternator, AC compressor, water pump and fan.
  18. NewZed
    You said that the clutch works. Not sure how you tested it, but if you have someone press the pedal while you try to turn the engine that should tell you if the transmission input shaft is bound up. Unless the input shaft is jammed inside the crankshaft pilot bearing, disengaging the clutch should leave you with the engine only. If it turns with the clutch pedal down, bit not with it up, then the input shaft is stopping the movement. The transmission output shaft should turn while in gear also, if the clutch is disengaged, since it's the engine and the transmission that are being engaged and disengaged. Except for the pilot bushing. In short, a working clutch system should separate the potential problem areas. Edited - spelling
  19. NewZed
    Can't remember exactly where I saw it, two places I think, but it was very recently: check that you didn't use an overlong bolt to install the slave cylinder. Apparently it's possible to jam the bolt end in to the pressure plate cover that way.
  20. NewZed
    Actually he said the post at the top of the picture, the "A" post, was disconnected. That would explain the lack of charging. He may have fixed that but doesn't realize that he probably blew a fusible link when the wire touched body metal as it was dangling around, shorting the battery. Wiring issues can get out of control.
  21. NewZed
    Here's a picture of the older switch. I really don't know how the older ones work, I've just seen that they need to be reset if they get tripped. Maybe they have a tendency to get stuck? My 76 had the switch and it fixed itself as soon as I fixed the problem (calipers on wrong sides). The OP never said what year car he's working with.
  22. NewZed
    Nissan changed the switch design sometime in the first few years of the 240Z. You're showing the newer design.
  23. NewZed
    MC's have been known to destroy their seals when they see a new part of the bore. The booster just amplifies the force from your leg, Brake fluid is denser than air. There must be some pedal pressure, there's a spring and you're also pushing on the rear brake system.
  24. NewZed
    I got the impression that the TPS should have a value at closed throttle and that MS is then calibrated to that value. In other words, you would tell MS that "6" is closed, and that whatever value the TPS puts out at wide open is 100%. Most sensors always put out a signal and the control system is calibrated to what you want those values to mean.
  25. NewZed
    Here's a clue.
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