NewZed

Here's another - http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN1CZ06S0DX703075

This 83 in Arlington might have one. http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200

Either your new regulator is bad, or one the wires at the T plug on the alternator is not connected to the battery. "checked fuel pressure" doesn't mean anything without numbers. Open the Engine Electrical chapter and get a multimeter. You mechanic friend should have one. Check the bottom (edited - said top before) of the T plug at the alternator for battery power. Measure fuel pressure, according to the procedure in the Engine Fuel chapter. Edit - actually, with the key on, both top and bottom contacts of the T plug should shows battery voltage.

This is classic dirty-or-stuck-dimmer-switch-contacts behavior. High beam contacts work, low beam don't. Spray some contact cleaner in to the white plastic switch at the base of the turn signal stalk and work it back and forth many times. There's crud and corrosion in there.

Find out where the click comes from. Put a meter on the starter terminals and see if the starter is getting voltage. You'll need to think about the difference between the solenoid and the starter motor itself to figure out if the solenoid and starter are getting proper voltage, but not working, or if they're just not getting battery power.

That helps. I was really looking for tire dimensions, not brand, but the pictures show a "normal" tire, probably 70 series. Ride height does not look that low. One thing you might clarify is if you mean factory-spec. ride height or what you have now, when you say you're happy with the stock ride height. Because if the springs are sagging, you're not at the spec. ride height, you're lower. Do you plan to keep those tires? If you don't you might get the new tires before going too far. They might change things. Also, you said camber in the first post, but caster in the last one. The only thing that's adjustable though is toe so doesn't really matter anyway. Unless you have adjustable camber plates. If you do have adjustable camber plates, even though you don't have adjustable spring perches, there might be other changes to the strut mounts. I might be complicating things but it's not clear what you're dealing with. Your car's been modified and there are a variety of changes that could have deviated from stock late 260Z. People do strange things once they start cutting and welding. Anyway, the shop's comments about alignment can't really be acted on easily. They're just observations. So you're left with a car that looks right (if I read your comments correctly) but has a harsh ride. So, tires and shocks, and spring preload are the three main things to consider. The KYB's are generally considered to be a mild, OE-type shock. They don't get much softer.

"World class" just means "world-wide market". "Class" just means a market classification, not like "high class". Kind of off-topic but it is one of those things that shows if you want to sell a lot of something, give it a name that sounds good.

I think that johnc's point was that the 240Z tubes are different from the later 260Z and 280Z tubes. They're all S30's. Check the camber specs in the FSM's. The later S30's run more camber. Not much, but not the same.

Here's a source - http://www.datsunstore.com/transmission-manual-shift-c-203_206_357_431_435.html Pretty sure the dealer might have them also. The 3.9 gear tooth number was used on some 1980's pickups also if you want to check the wrecking yards.

A thought - put a long straight edge on the rotor and compare distances at the top of the tube. If it's angle they'll be different than 1/4", if it's hub depth it will still be 1/4".

How much?

At least you got the right sub-forum. Edited - your post makes me uncomfortable. Here's a good start that's often recommended - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ Buy the book.

Lots of generality and not much hard fact to go on. Kudos to those that tried but they're all shots in the dark. The SBC isn't that much heavier than the L6 although people think it is. An SBC with aluminum heads is lighter than full iron. No numbers at all on the ride height. Take a measurement. Tires have a huge impact on ride quality. The popular low profile tires are harsh. There are two types of 260Z bodies, early and late. They use different springs. Which body style do you have? "Coilovers" will only allow ride height adjustment. You'll have the same harsh ride if you don't get the right shocks, and springs, and bump stops, and set it all up right. Get some facts on what you really have and post those. A picture would help too.

It has to be about a spark plug gap's distance away from a ground point. It can be closer or farther but if you go with that distance you'll be able to see it and also know that it's not too far. If it's touching the ground point,of course, you won't see anything.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and see what's happening when the problem occurs. Leave it connected while you drive.

Connect the yellow wire to the starter solenoid. Put some fuel in the tank. "cannot start the engine" could mean that you lost the key. More details needed.

A guy on zcar.com spent almost a week trying put a reman ZX booster in his Z. He got two mislabeled parts in a row. With reman parts, it's best to assume there's a problem and verify everything.

What's being adapted? And those are companion flanges in your pictures, I believe. The other half is called the axle.

"go to start it nothing happens" means turn the key to Start but the starter does not work? The engine does not turn over, the starter does not even click? Or something else?

Did you pull the coil wire while you were working on the engine? Maybe it's just not seated in the coil. It happens.

Just a comment on combustion chamber design. One of those small bothersome things. The "quench" concept is supposed to give faster, more controlled "burn". Allowing a complete burn with less ignition timing. But the timing specs for 1978 (N47) and 1982 (P79/P90 design) are essentially the same. 29 degrees total centrifugal timing. There's a +/- 2 degrees on the 1982 specs., but the max is 29. Just seems odd that Nissan would redesign a head for quench and fast burn and not take advantage of it. There may be improvements but it doesn't look like quench is one of them. Could be that flat-top pistons are just cheaper to make and the head needed some improvements anyway. So they made the chamber bigger for that reason alone. Overall, the two type of engines, early 280Z with dished, and ZX with flat-tops don't seem very different. Your CR should be 8.8 with the P90, not really hideous. You'll have a common L28 engine with carbs. Should run great. "With the P90 I probably have the more direct route, but a hideously low CR unless I put some work into it."

This is always an interesting topic. I typed in "compression ratio benefits" on the Google and actually found what looks like a decent overview of the issue. It doesn't cover "quench", which is another factor in your choice, but it does cover a lot. Seems to be based on facts also. Edit - actually it does mention quench, with a few tips included. Your question would be about whether or not the N47 wth flat-tops is a good quench design. Or even if the P90 with flat-tops is. http://www.hotrod.com/events/coverage/0311em-power-squeeze/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120932-blower-motor-upgrade-kia-sportage/?hl=%2Bhonda+%2Bblower+%2Bmotor

Post links to the rest of the "bunch". I just saw a good one a short while ago, on this forum. Can't tell if you saw it too.

44 and 71 in this thread might be informative. Axles is hard to make... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107855-m2-z31-short-shaft-issue/page-3