NewZed

Have you measured resistance of the coolant temperature sensor circuit at the ECU connector and compared it to the chart? How do you know the new one is even connected to anything?

Does this mean it runs well cold, then runs poorly after it warms up? There's no time-frame to work with, besides "starts out driving" and "then a short time later".

Swap rods.

Did you try turning up the idle speed screw? Don't know what carbs you're using but most have an idle speed adjustment. More ignition advance typically increases idle speed. Could be that all you're really doing with your timing adjustment is increasing idle speed. Gotta start somewhere. On the cam - can you see anything like that shown in the attached picture? With the straight side of the chain tight.

Here's a write-up for the 280Z thermostat temperature sensor. The CHTS does the same, from a different location. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Mid to late 90's Honda and Mitsubishi SUV's have a metal inline Schrader valve that you can cut out and T in to a rubber fuel hose. If you're by a wrecking yard. Just leave it in. You said you wanted ideas to try while you waited to get a gauge. The potentiometer can be slipped in between the two bullet connectors on the CHTS circuit. Zero hacking required, completely reversible.

Doesn't Comp Cams supply instructions? Most cam grinders keep the original reference marks. #1 should work. You didn't say anything about carbs or EFI or Megasquirt. Could be that your problem has nothing to do with cam or ignition timing. Or your damper timing marks are off.

Here's a good reference for brake options. If you're going to do it, might as well get it right - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38499-brake-upgrade-faq/

You're using poorly setup stock parts as a reason to replace them with expensive non-stock parts. This is how budgets blow up. Anyway, the thread has deviated in to philosophy. You'll find plenty of opinions on the forum to support spending money. Good luck.

That wasn't the point. Many of the older stock systems, for whatever reason, run lean with stock parts in good working order. The potentiometer lets you add a little bit of fuel over the full fuel curve. It's a simple tuning aid, not really a fix for a bad part. But, of course, measuring fuel pressure so you know what you're actually working with is the best idea. If fuel pressure is fine, do the potentiometer. This is the common lean AFM symptom - "Taking it on the road, with more than 15-20% throttle applied it would stumble, sneeze, and front fire very harshly."

I was just trying to show that you're making decisions on very little actual knowledge. Like the statement above - the car already has power (booster-assisted) brakes. If you meant "more powerful" there are numerous threads that talk about how the stock brakes work fine and are balanced correctly for the car, when they're in proper working order. And numerous threads talking about how the "upgraded" Toyota brakes, and rear discs, are biased to the front. You asked for suggestions. I say read more, take everyone's advice with a grain of salt (people inherently defend decisions that they've made. Objectivity is hard), drive the car for a little while, and make decisions based on a clear view of how you want the car to behave.

"Bigger brakes" in your first post was the clue. You haven't studied enough to know what's what. You're on the bling path. Form over function. All good, just that your plan doesn't fit your stated goal.

Many people, those that have done it especially, feel that Megasquirt alone is an upgrade, even on a stock engine. The 70's cars were surrounded by carb'ed cars so the EFI seemed clean and efficient. But compared to today's EFI systems, the old EFI is clunky, dirty, and problematic. But until you drive one, and compare it to a modern EFI car, like a Pathfinder or Buick, you won't really know.

You should wait until you have the car, and think a lot more about what you want it to be. You just have a list of random things to do, but they don't really fit together to make a better car. Pretty easy to spend a lot of money and just make a Frankenstein monster. Weird-looking and doesn't work well. You can't really upgrade anything until you know what "better" is. By the way, these are 240Z shocks. Only two of them will work in your 280Z. http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T4HDY6?tag=viglink20591-20 You want these. If you want stock style. http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T037EK

You said heat soak, vapor lock, and heat issues but didn't really describe what happens, or when. The typical problem seems to come from hot injectors. Running the water pump and fuel pump would probably help. But you'll be using your fuel as a cooling medium. Many people have had luck by just installing an aluminum fuel rail. But you probably already have one of those. Wrapping the rail might make the problem worse since it won't allow the rail to radiate heat away from the injectors. If your heat shield is missing that will make the problem worse. Nissan spent a lot of effort trying to keep heat away (shields) or remove it (fans) from the fuel lines. Sounds like you've deleted both of their fixes.

Extend the fuel rail return line in to the cabin and run it under your foot so that you can press it closed as you drive. More foot pressure = more fuel pressure. You could also put a potentiometer on the CHTS circuit. Turn up the resistance to get more fuel. The AFM's tend to get lean as they get old for some reason.

"On" typically means the "Run" position. "Start" typically means the position to send power to the starter solenoid and turn the engine over. "Trying to turn it on" could mean either. You can get clicks in both positions. Have you measured voltage anywhere? At the battery, at the starter? Get a meter and measure some stuff. Could be a dirty cable connection.

Which of the three operations are a problem? The shift rod hole enlarging and the clearance work for the gear are fairly easy. The enlargement of the bearing hole requires more accurate work. If you swap to the smaller bearing, you don't need that. Most machinists pause at the bearing hole work. Xnke has a trick for that but may or may not share it.

Good luck. You've only defined one "problem" and it doesn't seem like big deal. Idle AFR is a bit rich, but everything else is correct.. Here's a decent reference. It's Megasquirt and you don't have the tuneability, but since you're only worried about idle you could open up the idle air adjustment screw on the AFM. Described in the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. "Batch fire engines, however, have issues at idle with intake pulse reversion sending some of the fuel into an adjacent cylinder. So, if your engine is batch fire, you'll need to add a little more fuel so all the cylinders can stay at 14.7:1 or richer. Batch fire engines typically idle best in the mid 13's, so if you're leaner than that, put in some more fuel and see if that stabilizes the idle.:" http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_idle_tuning.html

Idles rich, or drives rich? Rich as defined by an AFR number? "Correct" means that resistance matches temperature as shown in the chart? Or it means "continuity"? Testing was done at the ECU connector or the component? The temperature sensors don't "output" anything. Numbers are your friend when working on the EFI system. Numbers make a big difference on the forums. Without numbers you're just part of the herd.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/1972/FE%20Fuel%20and%20Exhaust%20Systems.pdf

So there is a silver lining to all of those blue Subaru clones out on the streets. Seems a little down on power capacity though. Weaker than factory, isn't it. Shouldn't be spec.'ed in HP anyway. Product Description This is for you guys installing a R180 from a STI in what ever you can get it under. This stub is a 300m part capable of over 100Hp and ready to have a 108mm CV bolted up to it. http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/car-comparison-tests/reviews/a6306/2015-subaru-wrx-vs-sti/

Which one? - http://dupont.materialdatacenter.com/profiler/7MblW/standard/main/ds Just kidding. Kind of. Most thermoplastic polymers aren't suitable for constant high loads. They "creep". The fine threads of the gland nut put a pretty high load on the shock and spacer with any appreciable torque. If you cut your spacer so that it contacts the shock body via a sharp corner or small area, that area will deform easily. Add some heat and things get worse. Just something to be aware of. Get the design right. http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/plastics-polymers-resins/thermoplastics/brands/delrin-acetal-resin.html Easier to go wrong than right with Delrin, in that application.

The ECU just reacts to what Pin 18 does. When the coil discharges, the voltage pulse on Pin 18 makes the ECU ground the injector circuits. So if you're getting spark and Pin 18 is connected to the coil negative terminal, something's not working right in the ECU.

All of those "good"s just mean maybe. Why didn't you write the numbers down? The ECU grounds the injectors when it sees action on a certain pin at the ECU, which is connected to the coil's negative terminal. Which is also connected to the ignition module. Maybe you disconnected a wire by accident. The module you replaced is the matchbox on the side of the distributor, right? And you said no power, implying at the injectors, but didn't say that you actually tested for power at the injector plugs. I would check for power at the injector connections, and confirm that the trigger wire to the ECU, the one connected to coil -, is intact. Unfortunately, there aren't any good wiring diagrams for 1983 that I know of. It's a difficult car to work on. 1982 might be the same. Worth a shot. Looks like Pin 18 at the ECU should be connected to coil -. http://xenonzcar.com/s130/images/wiring/1982%20Datsun%20280ZX%20non%20turbo.pdf