NewZed

I'm not an expert, but I think that, based on the way the diff works, if you have 30 degrees of rotation on one side, you should have 30 degrees on the other side. So that result is a little bit confusing. Are you sure that some of the play isn't being taken up by the u-joints or axle splines? The vibration problem sounds more like a u-joint issue. You can get quite a bit of movement out a bad u-joint. And from what I've read, the side shafts/flanges on both the 280ZX and 280Z R200 diffs should pop out and you should be able to swap them, if the spline count is the same. I've been looking around at various differential options myself so would be interested in what you have there. From what I've been able to figure out, any R-200 diff up to 1983 should be usable with just a side shaft swap, except for 1975 when they used the weird pinion shaft flange bolt arrangement. After 1983 they changed the pinion shaft flange also. I'm interested. My diff is whining and clunky so I'm planning ahead.

s30red240z has a good point. Maybe you are not getting enough current through the injectors to open them. Or you might not be getting a proper ground through the ECU (same result). Then injectors are powered all the time when the key is On and open when the ECU grounds the circuit. If you have a spare injector, you could plug it in, in place of one on your engine to see if it is opening. s30red240z suggests holding it in your hand because then you'll feel the click as it opens. I recently cleaned my injection harness connections and put newer injector connectors on and now can actually hear the injectors clicking open when the engine is running. Before then, they were barely audible. Your FPR is designed to flow fuel through the rail all of the time. The orifice to the return line gets bigger or smaller to maintain a 36 psi difference between the inside of the manifold and the fuel, but it is always open when there is enoguh pressure from the pump. So if you don't have fuel in the return line, something is wrong. You could pop your CSV out and hit the starter to see if fuel is actually getting in to the fuel rail. Follow your fuel line from the fuel filter outlet through the rail, to the FPR and out to the return line and you'll see how it works. By the way, sucking gas fumes through a shopvac doesn't seem like a good idea.

Does it look like the attached picture? That transmission uses 80 to 90 weight gear oil. It's the common Datsun 5 speed. The drawing is from the 1982 FSM. The shifter mounts in the cylindrical piece on the top of the tail shaft.

Never mind.

Most people run the Energy Suspension 3-1108 - http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy+Suspension/355/3-1108G/10002/-1 Maybe it's not as tall as the GM 3201 that you say you're using. That would lift the nose of the diff up. I did a quick browse but can't find a 3201 on the internet to compare to the 3-1108.

Waiting for the fog to burn off (Oregon)... Do you mean that you bypassed the fuel pump relay (you said fuel pump)? Connected proper terminals, + and -, right at the pump and nothing happened? It's possible to hook them up backwards. You might have a burned relay and not a burned pump. I have read on this forum of people using a high pressure pump with a regulator so your regulator might be okay with a ZX pump. Not sure. But you don't need the high pressure capability. Sounds like you were looking at a fuel pressure gauge. Did it show 3.5 when the engine was running, now it shows zero? Some low pressure pumps are set at a constant low pressure. Unless you've actually seen the FPR and know you have one, you might end up putting 60 psi through your carbs. Sounds like you have an interesting, modified old 240Z. I would spend some time figuring out what you actually have before swapping parts. If you put a 73 alternator on and the car has been modified for a new alt, you'll have problems. Same with putting a ZX pump on a carbed car. Your car is no longer a 1973 240Z.

If you're running carbs the ZX fuel pump will be overkill and might cause problems, unless you a have the right fuel pressure regulator. ZX's have fuel injection,using a high pressure pump. You need a low pressure pump or high pressure with a regulator, for carbs. It might be hard to find something suitable in the junkyard since most carbed engines use mechanical pumps. To BRAAP's point - When you had your alternator tested, did they tell you if it was internally regulated or not, or mention if it was a stock 1973 alternator? Converting to internally regulated modern alternators is pretty common. 6K on an L28 is very spirited driving! Mine runs out of steam at about 4800. I wonder if yours has some performance mods.

The info on the P99 is probably in the same place as the info on the P81.

Looking for info on heads just now and came across the tables on this web page - http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPage.htm One shows a P99 for "8/82-Turbo Hyd" but does not talk about it in the text. Just adding to the mystery...

I have read that the rubber hoses (filler, vent, return, outlet) tend to crack and leak due to age. Worth checking. I plugged a pinhole leak on the bottom of a Pathfinder tank with that two-part epoxy gas tank sealer you can buy in the auto parts stores. It's worked for about 1 1/2 years so far. They changed the shape of the tank in 1978 and went to the mini-spare tire. I think you'll need a 1975 to 1977 tank, for the EFI lines, if you decide to replace it.

You might have seen this already - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62367-anyone-heard-from-ross-lately/page__pid__917516__st__100#entry917516 I think that there is an alternative, using the earlier half-shafts with u-joints. Maybe while you're waiting...

The web page does look like it's for ring and pinion gear sets, apparently, not LSDs - http://www.precisiongear.com/pgtechbreak.htm Can't you just call Precision Gear and see what they recommend? I assume that whatever materials they used, and treatments before during and after building the LSD would matter. Seems like they would know their product best.

Maybe you're locating dowels are abnormally tight.

On this forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96164-fs-misc-z-car-eng-parts-prtr-fld-pads-diff-mounts-240-dash-harness-custom-locks-510-hubcaps-etc/

This thread is informative - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/56329-megasquirt-overview-for-newbies/

A three tooth wheel would not work. I just figured out that I don't know what I'm talking about. Just correcting an error...

I was just trying to help kce out a little bit (and make a little joke), re the original P90 v P79 topic, plus I'm still interested in the "causes of detonation" discussion that was going on. Yours is an interesting discussion and might be worth extracting as its own thread, as you suggest.

Oops. Sorry about that, I didn't even know the Search engine was case-sensitive. Good catch, useful information, thanks. I must have used caps in my search then posted lower-case. I hope that's what you were looking for.

Option 2.

This thread has been jacked, tortured and murdered...

It is possible if you can find the right combination of extensions with the right socket on the end. I think I had two longs and a short (maybe two 6" and a 3"?, not sure of the lengths). It's almost a straight shot to all of them except the one in the front, which will be cocked a little bit, If I recall correctly.

I searched using these three words - msd 280z tachometer - and found some threads that will probably help you out. Not trying to be sarcastic, it really was that easy. Since this post should show up in your search, the sixth result down will probably be the one you want.

These guys will give you a quote over the phone. I don't know how wide their range is but might be worth a call. http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx

Do you have battery voltage to both sides of the coil, with the key at On? If you do and the points have a place to ground to and are set correctly then you should get spark when the engine turns over. If you don't have power at the coil then you can start back-tracking to find out why. If you do have power to the coil then you can focus on the points and everything after.

According to the FSM, the Turbo distributors did have a CAS. NA didn't. I'm only reading from the FSMs... Your choice of distributor probably depends most on what ignition module and ECU you'll be using. The 76 distributor is setup for a simple VR triggered ignition module, either the stock unit or a GM HEI or similar. Very basic centrifugal and vacuum advance curves. The 83 distributor is setup for some feedback from the ECU and (I believe) knock sensors, thermally activated vacuum control switches, etc. It also has 30 degrees of vacuum advance available at the crankshaft, apparently with the knock sensors to retard the timing if necessary. I don't know all of the ins and outs, but the 76 distributor is a simpler device. The Engine Electrical and Electrical sections of the FSMs have some good diagrams and descriptions. Either way, if you haven't already, you should take the one you choose apart and make sure the inner workings aren't gummed up before you use it. I've only taken three apart, but all of them had broken bearing races in the breaker plates and were gunked and rusted up. Even the one that looked shiny and almost new on the outside.