NewZed

You might have seen this already - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62367-anyone-heard-from-ross-lately/page__pid__917516__st__100#entry917516 I think that there is an alternative, using the earlier half-shafts with u-joints. Maybe while you're waiting...

The web page does look like it's for ring and pinion gear sets, apparently, not LSDs - http://www.precisiongear.com/pgtechbreak.htm Can't you just call Precision Gear and see what they recommend? I assume that whatever materials they used, and treatments before during and after building the LSD would matter. Seems like they would know their product best.

Maybe you're locating dowels are abnormally tight.

On this forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96164-fs-misc-z-car-eng-parts-prtr-fld-pads-diff-mounts-240-dash-harness-custom-locks-510-hubcaps-etc/

This thread is informative - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/56329-megasquirt-overview-for-newbies/

A three tooth wheel would not work. I just figured out that I don't know what I'm talking about. Just correcting an error...

I was just trying to help kce out a little bit (and make a little joke), re the original P90 v P79 topic, plus I'm still interested in the "causes of detonation" discussion that was going on. Yours is an interesting discussion and might be worth extracting as its own thread, as you suggest.

Oops. Sorry about that, I didn't even know the Search engine was case-sensitive. Good catch, useful information, thanks. I must have used caps in my search then posted lower-case. I hope that's what you were looking for.

Option 2.

This thread has been jacked, tortured and murdered...

It is possible if you can find the right combination of extensions with the right socket on the end. I think I had two longs and a short (maybe two 6" and a 3"?, not sure of the lengths). It's almost a straight shot to all of them except the one in the front, which will be cocked a little bit, If I recall correctly.

I searched using these three words - msd 280z tachometer - and found some threads that will probably help you out. Not trying to be sarcastic, it really was that easy. Since this post should show up in your search, the sixth result down will probably be the one you want.

These guys will give you a quote over the phone. I don't know how wide their range is but might be worth a call. http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx

Do you have battery voltage to both sides of the coil, with the key at On? If you do and the points have a place to ground to and are set correctly then you should get spark when the engine turns over. If you don't have power at the coil then you can start back-tracking to find out why. If you do have power to the coil then you can focus on the points and everything after.

According to the FSM, the Turbo distributors did have a CAS. NA didn't. I'm only reading from the FSMs... Your choice of distributor probably depends most on what ignition module and ECU you'll be using. The 76 distributor is setup for a simple VR triggered ignition module, either the stock unit or a GM HEI or similar. Very basic centrifugal and vacuum advance curves. The 83 distributor is setup for some feedback from the ECU and (I believe) knock sensors, thermally activated vacuum control switches, etc. It also has 30 degrees of vacuum advance available at the crankshaft, apparently with the knock sensors to retard the timing if necessary. I don't know all of the ins and outs, but the 76 distributor is a simpler device. The Engine Electrical and Electrical sections of the FSMs have some good diagrams and descriptions. Either way, if you haven't already, you should take the one you choose apart and make sure the inner workings aren't gummed up before you use it. I've only taken three apart, but all of them had broken bearing races in the breaker plates and were gunked and rusted up. Even the one that looked shiny and almost new on the outside.

Did you see lowrider's thread? - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97253-hei-spark-control/page__pid__913356#entry913356 The 8-pin GM HEI module is essentially the same as the 7-pin module except it has a separate ground wire. The relay is to give 5 volts to the B pin only when the engine is running. It allows the car to start with the original static timing, then applies the Megasquirt timing advance when the engine is running. That's all I know.

I have been studying this same setup recently for future reference. I don't have Megasquirt now but am interested in your problem. If I could ask a couple of questions, for my own purposes and maybe to add a little clarity - 1. Have you measured voltage at B to be sure it's actually at ~ 5 volts? Maybe you're overpowering the B pin with 12 volts and that's why you're losing the R pin signal. Just a WAG but I wonder why you're losing your tach reading, it comes from the R pin on the module. I assume that what you mean is that you connect B before starting, hit the key and no more tach reading in Megatune. 2. Does your trigger offset in MegaTune match what you read with the timing light, with B disconnected? Your static distributor timing must be close already if it runs without the B pin. It sounds like mechanically everything is right but either Megasquirt is not getting its information from the R pin or it's sending out the wrong information to the E pin. You must be connecting B before starting, as Matt Cramer suggests, since you don't mention the car dying, just not starting. To Matt Cramer's point about connecting B while running, the diagram on this page shows the use of a relay to disconnect B while cranking, and connect it only while running. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm About halfway down the page. Hope I'm not muddying things up... Edit - came back to change your to you're...

I was kind of off-base on this anyway. The crank spins twice as fast as the distributor so you'd end up with wasted spark on a single coil. That might be too much for the coil. Unless you used a three tooth wheel on the crank. My mistake. I'll go back to my own business now...

This guy's approach is interesting - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/ Instead of holes and Hall effect, you could drill and tap for bolts, grind the heads and create teeth on the engine side of the flywheel, so you could use the VR sensor and the Motorcraft EDIS unit. A lot of work (not too much if you went 6-1 like he did) but would allow you to stay away from the front end of the crankshaft, but get the same result. No comments on wiring the three signals together and running one coil. Not my bailiwick...

Be careful that you actually get a 70 amp, looks like the auto parts store have simplified to 60 amps for everything. Here's a link to O'Reilly's listing for an 83 Turbo and they show 60 amps, with compatibility to other non-turbo cars - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Alternator/01468/C0330.oap?year=1983&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209406&keyword=alternator The "special connector" just jumps the wires that need jumping, plus comes with the diode installed correctly to prevent the engine from running when the key is turned off. If you're upgrading a 240 (280s don't need the diode). Pretty convenient and clean looking, not too expensive, plus it's reversible if you've got a classic. Doesn't really look like a rip. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4067

Error...

Don't forget that there is a resistor in line between the coil neg. (-) and the tach in the stock configuration. Probably to limit current through the coil, I would guess. If you still have the wires in the engine bay you could connect there or find the resistor up by the old ignition unit in the passenger footwell. I would be interested in how accurate the stock tach is compared to the MS RPM reading in the MS software (which I would assume to be accurate since it is essentially all digital). Just curious, if you get a chance to compare (or anyone else that knows).

My comment was mainly for KillerBjt. He asked the question.

The Picasa photo-editing program from Google is free and will let you export pictures to a smaller size. http://picasa.google.com/#utm_campaign=en&utm_source=en-ha-na-us-bk&utm_medium=ha&utm_term=picasa Import the pictures then export them to a smaller size <1000 x <1000. They will still be of high resolution. This is an interesting thread but the pictures are killing me, both loading-time wise and trying to read the text, then shrink the pictures down so I can see them. They might be the biggest pictures I have ever seen on this forum. Just trying to be helpful...

I don't know about the S130 but on the S30 you can see the slave cylinder from the engine bay. With a stretch you can actually reach down and work on it. Follow the hydraulic line. You could at least pop the rubber cover and see if it's full of fluid.