NewZed

Longer studs are tempting, considering how hard it is to start the nuts on my current wheels. What does the back look like, where the stud heads seat? It looks like the spline counts are different. Did you just pull them through anyway?

I don't have Megasquirt but I've been reading up on it. You said that you've been reading posts but have you been reading the installation manuals? Granted, there's a ton of info out there that's difficult to wade through, here's some suggestions. These might have what you need - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#safety http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#idle These might be helpful - http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm#22 http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm#22 http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_install_writeups.htm http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/tech_articles.htm http://www.diyautotune.com/msmoreinfo.htm

There are conflicting facts in your thread. Earlier you said that 12 volts direct would not make the pump turn, which pointed to a bad pump at the least. Now the pump turns (maybe, at least it makes noise) but fuel doesn't flow? I would start at the basics. Take the pump off and see if gas comes out of the tank, to confirm the inlet line is not clogged. Connect 12 volts to the pump and see if it turns. Hook up some hoses and see if the pump pumps with 12 volts (water or gasoline if you're careful with sparks). Prop the AFM flap open with the key On and measure voltage at the pump wires on the car. Etc. Somewhere along the way there will be a failure. Edit - the fact that it didn't turn the first time you connected 12 volts but you hear some noise now points to a worn out or rust-clogged pump, not an electrical issue.

Have you checked power on the wires? Battery voltage at B+ and Coil - with the key On? Broken parts could cause no spark. I've seen the magnet under the stator broken. There is a set of tests you can run in the Engine Electrical section of the FSM.

Does the L28 use an electric fuel pump (the PO would have had to install a mechanical otherwise). Your fuel pressure could be too high.

Actually, no injector firing could be from a bad ignition module. The ECU fires the injectors when it gets the signal from the negative post of the coil. The sudden death then miracle revival sounds like ignition module also. There is a one or two wire (green) in-line (separate from the ones under the covers) fusible link for the EFI harness. If you short your harness now, you'll burn up all the wire to the point of the short. Edit - the "spirited run" is a clue also. High rpm heat up the module causing it to fail. Cooling down revives it.

I would read this thread before doing too much else - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ 56 psi with bigger injectors doesn't fit. That would give a LOT more fuel over stock since the ECU just controls open time of the injectors. Double whammy on fuel enrichment. ~ 36 psi is the stock setting with stock injectors. Your AFM has a screw for adjusting idle air volume, to lean out or richen the idle mixture. It's on the side under a rubber plug. And the ECU adds fuel when the TPS is at the idle setting. Idle mixture is essentially separate from everything else, so probably shouldn't be used for tuning for driving.

I had considered doing something similar to my car when I was having problems adjusting the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM, which is what your car came with also. At times, the fuel pump would get turned off at low RPM. Enough air was getting by the AFM vane to let the contact switch open. In your case, a PO might have either jumped the AFM switch wires (maybe at the relay) or bent the switch in the AFM so that it's closed all the time. You might trace out the AFM switch wires and see if you can get back to stock. If you take the cover off of the AFM you'll see the small contact switch and how it works. Where was that switch installed? Did you lose your oil pressure gauge readings? Edit - or if you want to keep the oil pressure switch, get one from a 1978 (maybe later also) 280Z engine. Datsun went to the oil pressure switch and alternator current safety system in 1978. The 78 switch has the oil pressure sensor also but I think that you would need to wire it differently that what you want to replace. Second edit - I'm not sure the 78 switch would work since it uses a different relay. By the wiring, it looks like the oil switch just completes a path to ground. But it might be worth a look.

It looks like a late (81-83) 5 speed with a bolt in place of the pivot pin to hold the shifter in. Bottom half of the this page - http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

What are the part numbers on the ECU and the AFM? They should be on a black and green sticker on the sides. In general, they have to match the wiring harness and components of the car to work correctly. You can't just swap them around, Datsun modified them every few years. Throw a few capital letters in to your posts, at least the i's, maybe even a few after the periods, and you might get more responses. I do like the question marks though, they help a lot.

Didn't you just post two of these yesterday? You should at least mention using vise-grips or pliers first on the rear link bushings, before taking the grinder to them. I pulled all four of mine off by hand (got lucky maybe). Nice videos though, I'm sure they'll help some people out.

Blocks and heads - http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPage.htm FSM - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html It will probably be hard to get the whole FSM downloaded on to your cell phone. The ECU and AFM don't really "care" what 280 engine is in the car. They're what matters. Good luck.

I checked a few things out and from what I've read, the 260Z did not come with EFI. So it's not really clear what you're working with. If you posted your ECU and AFM part numbers and production date of the car someone might be able to tell you what you have. The Engine Fuel section of the 1975 FSM has a nice small diagram showing the pinout of the ECU. You'll be able to trace out exactly where 11 and 21 come from.

The ECU pinouts changed in 1978, maybe late 77. I'm pretty sure that 75-77 is the same, not sure about 74. Nothing after 77 will plug in to your 75 car and work though, and might damage the ECU so would be an expensive experiment. I've also found that 1978 uses the same part number as 75-77, A11-600-000, but Datsun took some pins out and may have modified the internals. A 78 ECU won't work in a 76 car, for example. I tried a 78 ECU on my 76 because they had the same part number but was left stranded after the engine warmed up. I then checked the wiring diagrams and found the differences. A 75 or 76 with the A11-600-000 part number would probably work, but that doesn't look like your problem. Your problem might be with the TPS contacts. I think the damper damps higher frequency pulses than the problem you are seeing indicates.

Your project looks interesting. I have a 76 and it too could use what yours has. Check out this thread re your huge pictures (it took ten seconds for your post to load) - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98587-enough-with-the-large-photos-people/page__p__924956__hl__%2Benough+%2Bwith+%2Bbig+%2Bpictures__fromsearch__1#entry924956 This is a good one too - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/64626-lazybroken-shift-keys-rant-does-this-apply-to-you-lets-clean-it-up-please/ - the train-of-thought-puke-it-out-as-you-think-it writing style will turn a lot of people off, especially the ones with the good answers. Just trying to help out. Effort returned = effort in.

McMaster-Carr has a selection. They ship to private addresses. They're like Amazon for industrial products. http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=bczcyx

Is your ECU still installed and plugged in? Unplugging it might kill the power to one side, the side you'll be connecting to Megasquirt. Page EF-21. There are mini-diagrams throughout the FSM, you don't have to dig through the big one. p.s. Didn't mean to stomp on your reply Ron - timing...

The EFI relay, not the ECU, supplies power to the dropping resistors. Diagrammed on page page 19, if you really want to know. I'll butt out now, just wanted to be sure I was getting my point across. Of course, sometimes it's more fun to put things together without the instructions.

The pin-out for the 1980 ZX dropping resistors is on Page EF-41 if you don't want to chop any wires. There's a description of the resistors on EF-19 and wiring diagrams on 21 and 22. Looks about like your last drawing in function.

FSM = Factory Service Manual http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html MT-4 = Page 4 of Manual Transmission chapter The end is nigh...

Odd coincidence - I just replaced the fuel rail on my 76 last night because the stock multi-piece unit had started leaking at the hoses connecting it together. Started it up and it sounded really rich, realized that I had hooked the FPR up backwards so I turned the fuel pump off to bleed the pressure down while it was running so that I could swap the hoses. It ran for about 10 - 15 seconds!, which feels like a long time when you're waiting and wondering when the engine is going to run out of fuel. I have an aftermarket Airtex pump, rated at ~70 - 95 psi, so my fuel rail was super-pressurised and the fuel had no where to bleed off to. If your 15 minutes is really about 15 seconds, you might have a blockage in your return line, or a clogged FPR.

The ECU doesn't supply voltage to the injectors, it just supplies the path to ground to energize the injector solenoids. So changing ECUs won't help that. The wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel section of the FSM are small and easy to get through, and specific to your problem. Page EF-24 has a good one. Also, with four 280Zs, you should know that they don't have MAFs, they have AFMs. How it works is also described in the Engine fuel section. p.s. You should add a location or you might get locked out. From what I've been reading anyway.

What does jumping around pretty bad mean? What is the range of jumpiness? I moved my S wire from the battery positive to the starter lug to see if it would smooth my dash voltmeter's needle jumping around. It did but I can't really explain why. ZX alternator in a 1976 car.

There is a good drawing of the shifter components on page MT-4 of the FSM.

I haven't seen an 81 in person, let alone an 81 turbo, but don't most Zs have pumps wired in using studs with nuts. What is this plug that is being unplugged to disconnect your fuel pump? Or are you unplugging a relay? Do you have a picture?