tfreer85

You hit the nail on the head. Okay so since your saying jack that the newer OBII would be harder to smog thats out then. SupraGuy do you by chance have a link for it? I'm over at a friends house so I can't do research right now. Tyson

Okay well, after a whole lot of research, I'm going against the 4.3L LT1. Parts are harder to find, there would be a lot of custom work involved to pull any amount of decent HP out of it. What I'm looking at now is a complete 2000 4.8L Chevy truck engine. I have one in my other truck, and it pulls nice and hard through a large rpm band while still being a relatively small cube V8. I'm guessing since I want to upgrade to the T-56 I'd have to use one of the newer models that came with the LS1. I've got some more researching to do about it and I'll keep everyone updated with what I find out. Jack46 thanks for the patience and help. Tyson

Well I found something thats explains quite a few differences between the 4.3 LT1 and the 5.7 LT1. http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm Tyson

Okay Jack46. The 4.3 Longblock is all that I would be getting. A rebuild kit I was just quoted for around $500. What is your opininion about new heads with mild porting? (I'm thinking Aluminum to save weight for a not as powerful engine). Do the LT1 intake, a 52 MM Throttle body, stock MAF. I wouldn't be doing a longblock LT1 for used parts because the cheapest I can find is $1500 and I'd rather spend a little more for new. Do the 1.6 Roller Rockers like you're saying. I'd do a painless wiring system, and a reflashed ecu. What do you think about for camshaft degress around .50? (included in the rebuild kit). I don't even know what trolling is, so I'm sorry you thought I was hooking you. This should still allow for a little bit of money left over to go else where in the car. Thanks a ton for all the very useful info. Tyson

Thank you wheelman for the polite reply. Yes I am a younger guy turning 20 this week. I've taken a couple of engine overhaul classes, but am by no means what-so-ever an engine masters. I know the bare bones about things and therefore don't know what combination would work best. Now jack46, I know you're saying a 4.3 is waste of time and money. I would like your honest opinion if you could only go with an engine smaller than a 350, but was still a V8, what engine choice and setup would you do? I have a budget of $4000, with free block machining because of school. Now let me explain my reasoning (it still may be flawed) behind doing the 4.3 LT1 setup: I see that if do all of the 350 LT1 setup on the topend, that once I get the approval/money do the 350 I won't have a double price new LT1 products. That all I would have to do is swap in the 350 block. As for boring out 250 thousands I didn't think it all the way through and was thinking that the entire block was identical to the 350. I'm asking because I don't know everything and want to know, I learn quickly and don't make the same mistake twice. Since, I've seem to made you mad jack46 I'm sorry, but I have learned a lot from your post and don't feel you have wasted your time. Sometimes I'll accidentaly ask a double question and you make take it as me not listening. I know that can be aggravating. Considering my goals for the car which is nothing extremely radical like Turbo Meister, or Darius. I'm just looking for a quick little V8, that can keep up a little bit. So again jack46 I'm sorry that you feel that way. Again let me know what you would do with a $4000 budget for a V8 engine smaller than a 350 that was smog legal. So you're saying (jack46) don't build up the 4.3 expecting any real hp or build it up for the future 350 LT1 swap correct? I'm not trying to stir the pot or aggravate anyone (I was just trying to say there has to be a way to pull more hp out of a Chevy engine). I've re-read the forum a couple of times. A 350 swap, is pretty much out of the question as I began to crunch some numbers and realize the amount of time (in years) that it would take for convince my dad to do the 350. That being said, I figure a Chevy V8 is my engine choice because of the large number of positives for it. Now I don't have to have FI though I would like to. So I need fair HP from small cubes or at least enough to smoke my friends truck which runs upper 13's. Sorry again jack46, I over read some of the important tidbits when I saw numbers. Tyson

Well I definately don't see a 350 Block as a dead end, no matter what FI system you have. There is always to pull more HP somewhere. Block Modifications: Get rid of 265 cid internals 335 stroker kit and bore the block out to standard 350 pistons. Gear Driven Timing Chain Electric Water Pump Head Modifcations: New heads Edelbrock Peformer bare (smog legal) Manley Undercut Valve Stems Crane Cam (probably on 230 ish at .50) Crane Cams Beehive Springs solid rollers Roller Rocker Tips Stud Girdles Port and Polish Intake Mods: New Intake (any brand recommendations?) BBK 58MM Twin Throttle Body Aftermarket MAF I want the powerband to be in the 2000-6000rpm range, and only 9.5:1 compression ratio since I don't really want to use premium and want to allow for superchargine later. I figure a free/higher revving 327 LT1 would be a good little starter motor since my car has only been in a project state (i.e. I've never driven it). That'd give me plenty of fun, something pretty unique as to engine size, allows me to keep my 6 speed, and have a lot of support in the V8 forum. A 350 or bigger upgrade may be in the future, but I'm in college for at least another 6 years, so its not going to be soon. Also if I can do a lot of mods to on the upper end, if I decide on going bigger (350 or 383) all I have to do is change the inernals which is no biggy. Thanks for all the info guys. Tyson

73TPIZ I was thinking something along the lines of this for an FI system if i went the non-LT1 way: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=9249&prmenbr=361 Wheelman or Tim240Z, I've got a question for you or anyone else. Is the block the same as the 350? Crank and journal sizes? I figure the difference is in the stroke, rods, and bore size. Am I correct?? Also would I be able to use the T-56 tranny from an early 1997 Camaro? Tyson

Hey Wheelman if I go with the L99 I would be doing a complete rebuild anyways since I'd want to stroke it. Therefore I'd be willing to give you the crank and rods as long as you paid for shipping or would want to pickup. Thanks for the L99 code for finding it. Tyson

A 4.3 Liter LT1!!!!!! I've never even heard of it, but sounds very very tempting. Anyone know any technical info on it? Googleing 4.3 LT1 pulls up very little outside of the fact that it was offered. So it should be able to bolt up the T-56 too right? Tyson

Thanks Tim any idea about the De-stroking theory? Also what about Multipoint FI since I'm looking into FI systems and wouldn't want to stick with the TPI system. Tyson

Okay, I was building up a KA24DE Stroker, but recieved an offer I couldn't refuse and I realized I love the sound of a V8. Now down to the real stuff, I've done a lot of reading and I know the general concensus on the 305 is why bother when you can do the 350. Unfortunately since my father is paying for all the body work and that such has claimed a 350 is "too big" hence the 305 idea. Read all of this http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89381&highlight=305 and almost all of this http://www.lt1intake.com/files/faq.html . What i'm wanting to do is take a 305 TPI block bored and stroked to a 335 ( http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=341 ) shaft mounted rockers crane cam beehive springs crane cam (still up in the air on grind) Now for the top end I want to do an LT1 setup. Meaning LT1 Heads, Intake manifold, etc. What my big question is will the LT1 fit on the 305 block? According the LT1 intake website it will fit on the 350, but doesn't say anything about the 305. I've heard that the blocks are the same and that the only difference is bore and stroke. Another question if I were to get a 350 LT1 Setup would I be able to de-stroke it? One more quick question can the T-56 6 Speed from a 1997 Camaro bolt up to the 305 block? My main goal is to pass smog, have a streetable car, that can hang with the occasional drag strip. Thanks a ton, any help at all would be great. Tyson

First I think your going to need some non=white towels . Second your going to need a video camera so everyone else will need non-white towels. Thirdly you're going to need to race another crotch-rocket, scare the crap out of a miata, and do donuts with just feathering the throttle. Have a blast, I can barely contain my own excitement and its not my car!! Tyson

Maybe he's just extremely paranoid about the rotary engine that "should" be in it. Or he's just a jack***. Tyson

Its not really that I'm touchy I just don't like being called intolerant. Though I do feel that everyone is a racist somehow, though I didn't mean its as racism and really wanted to clarify so there weren't any assumptions that I'm anti- non white protestant. So no harm no foul? Next time I'll just keep my mouth shut. Tyson

Or an oldsmobile cutlass with an airbrushed picture with a have naked girl and christ on the cross.

Thought this was interesting. NSX to Ferrari F50 No 56K lotsa pics. http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=6&i=54674&t=54674 Tyson

People who know how to fiberglass should only use their power for good; not for malicious attacks on RX-7's. Tyson

"IPP's stroker kit consists of 5.5mm more stroke that when added to the increased bore = 440cc more cubes of usable power! Our stroker kit increases torque as much as 30% & 40 Horse Power! This means more pulling for 4X4 applications and faster acceleration for Street and Circle Track. Can be used with any type of engine including EFI & Turbo's." Is what the website claims one of the major reasons I want to stroke it is all forged internals which will allow for that extra 2psi. The stroker kit actually works out to be slightly less than if i were to buy all oem forged. Also I'm looking at another Z a 260 so 2.6 liters of displacement for my 260Z. The stroker kit also claims "Our stroker kit increases torque as much as 30% and 45 Horse Power!" As for the turbo manifold thank you for clarifying the differences. Clifton btw what did you think the topic was on?

Thats it? and Why is that so much better?

Okay, I'm building up a KA24DE, stroking to a 2.6 (http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ ). I'm now to the point of deciding on what turbocharger setup I want to do. I'm looking at the Arizona Z Garret T04 Turbocharger ( http://www.arizonazcar.com/turbos.html ) since my hp goal is around 500hp any thoughts on this turbo for a 4cyl? What my real question is what is the real difference is between a top mounted manifold and a bottom mounted manifold? Everyone always says that the top mounted is better, but why? The only real theoretical reason I can think of is hot air rises faster which would allow quicker spooling of the turbo. Can someone explain the differences, along with the pro's and con's of both? Tyson

Ouch... I love how the other guy just turns slowly and walks away. Tyson

Geez I don't need a towel, I need to shower after that. Tyson

Shoot me in the foot and slap me. Don't answer this question I found the info I needed with a little bit more searching.

Okay I'm looking into getting a sand blaster for some rust removal and some paint removal. I intend on sanding down the entire body but where I can't reach with the DA sander I will use the sand Blaster. This is the one I'm looking at because its fairly cheap: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34202 I know Harbor Freight isn't the best of stores for quality gear but just want your guys opinions on this. (i've read that you shouldn't use the sand blaster at all is this the general consensus.) Tyson