tfreer85

Start of with reading this: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=69&announcementid=2 Then read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=86 Then: Use the search function before you post again. (its a touchy subject) Then: Search Again Then: Ask well organized questions, with technical references to the parts i.e. the block, the head, upgrades. Then: Use proper english, no AIM "ttyl ppl brb" etc. language. Then: Be respectful to all the guys who know what they are talking about, and if they call you stupid don't take it personally, it just means you followed none of the steps above or are making speculations with no real proof. Then read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101615 My response is relatively nice, however the other guys can rip into quite easily if you don't think before you type. As for getting 450rwhp, a lot of money through an L28 block, a whole lot of boost, fuel injection upgrades, forged internals, R-200 diff, etc, etc, etc, this is on the uppermost tip of the iceburg. Tyson

I'm not looking at the Carb setup unfortunately going to stick with FI. I was talking about the Performance Engine Rebuild Kit a couple boxes down from that. But still thanks for the info if I ever go carbed.

What do you guys think of this complete rebuild kit? Seems pretty well priced for all of what you get. http://www.racetep.com/xmasspecials.html#dat Also, I've been searching for forged connecting rods, and the only place that I've heard/read that carries them is a company called Saenz, but can't find any information about them or any contacts. Google didn't turn up anything in America just the UK. I'm going for a HIGH BOOST L28 would like to throw 20lbs at it for the occasional strip, auto X.

Okay, some fun stuff. CAR: 78 280Z Bone Stock PROBLEM: Won't stay running CONDITIONS: Car has sat for several years. Charged the battery (looks fairly new). The engine will turn over but will not start or even stay running if it does. I've just replaced the spark plugs, and the MAF sensor. When it does run it runs so rich it smells of pure gasoline while pumping tons of black smoke out of the exhaust. All of the vaccum ligns seem okay, going to do some reading in some books tonight see if its any help. Any suggestions on what you guys think. I've heard the FI on these very PMS-ee. Thanks a lot, Tyson Moderators want to move to troubleshooting section??

To get this http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1032&cat=502 look with the exhaust out back can i keep the stock 280Z fuel tank in place or do i have to upgrade to a fuel cell?

I don't belief the VG30DETT came out till '90-91 ish. They are easily modded to 400rwhp. What is the vehicle that you are looking to put the engine into? If its an 280 or below Z then there is a lot of mods required to do so, just have to do a search for it. As for the VG30ET it has similar mods but not as many. This website http://zacksz.homestead.com/Scottscar.html should tell you pretty most if not all of the mods that need to take place. If you want 400rwhp and just want to keep to head work, i think you'd be very hard pressed to get those numbers. You could do a complete Port and Polish on the heads, intake manifold, do a custom exhaust manifold, larger turbo, ecu, etc. which would help you get to those numbers. But some of those are limited to what the application you are fitting the engine into. Hope I helped. Tyson

Not always true, when you heat the rod it is only for around a 1 minute to 1 minute and 15 secs at 1500 to 2000 degrees farenheit (for a standard chevy 350 SBC). This is not long enough to change any of the metal characteristics of the metal or weakening it any (the only feasable way for this to happen is overheating or already having a weak rod or unusable rod). Its not glowing red, its only to allow for the appx.: .0001" clearance to be expanded enough for the pin to be pressed in by hand. To be able to press it in cold with a hyperuetetic piston, or standard cast piston would require several tons worth of pressure to do so, then you would risk damaging the piston. Don't know about rockwell harness of the rod though could be different.

Its not just the cost of the complete engine setup that costs that much. There are sever engine bay modifications that need to be completed when dealing with a TT swap into a 300ZX Tyson

well doing a TT swap into a 1990 300ZX is quite expensive. Search 300zxclub.net or .com i can't remember. It will provide all of the info that you need on performing the swap. The guy on that site who has done it all (including many upgrades) has spent I believe around $16,000 in the swap and he is doing all the labor. A rebuild out in california will cost you around $2,000 + or - labor including forged rods and pistons, with a valve job, complete rebuild kit (possibly a port and polish on the heads). If you already have a TT, a rebuild kit from "powerhouse engine kits" google it (I highly recommend them great experience with several engines that i have built, domestic and import) will cost you around 500 just for the basic OEM rebuild kit. But who wants OEM?? However most people on here don't know much on the VG30DE or VG30DETT's as its not a practical or often done swap into the older Z's. Tyson

Whats the point of the stitch welding around the strut tower area? I understand it for every else except there. Does it provide more strenght or stability? Tyson

Looks good. Seems to have a lot of Shelby GT500 influence in it, but still pretty cool.

Just for everyone's info the NA Transmission from a 90-95 300ZX will not mount directly up to the Turbo Motor from the same year car. I'm not for sure what the difference is just check with 300zxclub.net . I'm only recomending another forum because of the limited info on this particular engine any other engine stick to hybridz its the only one worthwhile.

Finding a regular NA tranny wouldn't be that hard, there are tons of junkyards around me that would carry them. However i don't think they will hold the HP. Though this isn't really in the transmission section and is kinda of base is there chance to ge a 6 Speed for it. I mean i'm willing to fork out the money for a really solid and reliable transmission. I'm looking at a 300ZXclub.com right now on some guy doing a NA to Twin. A question is can the are the Turbo and NA's transmission interchangeable? The car is a '72 240Z. Guess i should have posted this in the Transmissions.

Okay I'm looking at engines for my VG swap and I don't know which one to buy. Here is what i'm going to do to either engine once i get it: Forged Pistons and Rods Upgrade Camshafts Full Balance Custom Exhaust Manifolds for Twin Turbo's Port and Polish Heads and Intake Manifold Standalone Computer Upgrade New Wiring Harness I can buy VG30DE for around $1,000 and replace everything for a twin turbo setup. However I can't find a 5 speed for it and am wondering if the late 80's model transmission will work? Or I can buy a VG30DETT for around $2,200 including a 5 speed and both turbos(which I intend to upgrade/replace anyways) then do all the same (pistons etc.) upgrades. Personally I'm thinking the VG30DE because its base price is less and considering i'm setting it up for twin turbos anyways seems to be the better deal. Does anybody see a draw back to this that i'm not seeing?? I'm wanting to be in the low 11's high 10's on the drag strip yet still be streetable daily driver with boost turned down, and the occasional autoX stuff. Yes i'm going to add all the suspension, brake, and safety mod's galore to it and am already mostly there. Also i'm going for around 500-600HP on the street, with around 700HP for the strip. Thanks, Tyson

GIMME!!! GIMMEGIMME GIMMEGIMMEGIMME!!!!! That looks awesome, and unique!!! How much do you want for it??? Once again looks, good. Tyson

Okay i'm going for a look similar to this : http://www.zparts.com/showcase/mo_v8/00r31f10.html or lex240zls1 fender flares: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=930 Sorry, I just have a really hard time deciding on who's flares they are, lex's look to be IMSA Fiberglass Flares while the other looks like similar to the Reaction Reasearch Subtle Z flare kit?? Could someone please tell me if i'm right or wrong. Search didn't provide much info on the two different flares completed. Thanks Tyson

Hey that Z isn't the one from craigslist is it? or have a new cameleon paint job does it?

If you live in the US then the VG30DETT is more price affordable, and "easier" to find parts for, i.e. forged pistons etc. There are only 3 ways in which I know of on how to install the VG30DETT, one is like already explained, another is leave everything stock and have 3mm of clearance (as told to me in another post) but then you fight working room, and the last way is to make custom exhaust manifolds that run past the front strut towers and have the turbos supported by some sort of stand. The VG30DETT also has one major problem that I've hear of which is the steering column requires a large portion of modification, however i do not know if that still applies with the front mounted turbos. As for the RB26DETT is slightly easier swap, just because more people have done it. You already have custom motor mounts, custom exhaust manifolds, tons of info on the swap, a little bit more room in the engine bay. Both are going to require custom tranny housing and all the other stuff necessary for a swap. However the largest draw back so far that I have seen to the RB swappers is the cost, very, very expensive for US citizens unless you have connections in Japan like some of them do. I've done price sheets on both for a VG30DETT engine and tranny installation, forged pistons, 2 intercoolers and pipping, boost controller, custom exhaust manifold and stand for the turbos, including down pipes, and a dual 3 inch exhaust is going to run me around $10,000 US dollars. For the same setup with an RB25DET not the RB26 just because its a little bit cheaper was $15,000. Another problem that you will run into unless your doing a crazy awd setup (i think someone on here has done it), is you will have to buy the RB25 transmission seperate the RB26 Engine. Also one more thing, try to use the search comparisons of the RB26DETT vs. VG30DETT have been discussed thorougly. Tyson Any of you more experienced guys want to correct feel free to do so .

HAHA, well if not drive it get to ride in it all the time. I watch the videos every single day.

Darius, as typical hybridz fan gorgeous work, I show it to all my friends and autoshop friends. If i were a girl i'd marry just to drive that car.

Okay, i'm looking into doing a 76 EFI L28 to a triple carb setup. I'll be running this in a 240Z intsead. Okay, I have couple of questions however, if i do the conversion, I don't need to keep the ECU, Wiring harness or anything related to the fuel injection right? The main reason that i want to convert is because I don't like over electrical engines because i don't know how to work on them. Also, is the stock '76 head the N42 head or is it something different? And will it bolt up to a triple carb setup? All of the L-6's engines and trannies are interchangable between 70-79 right? Thanks Tyson

Okay, I'm looking to do a stroker engine, after reading how much horespower is enough, and considering I just got the car i don't want to do an insane amount of power into it without really knowing how to drive it. Now i've looked into the MSA stroker kit and it seems a bit pricey, however i like how it is a complete kit.. I've heard of doing the maxima crankshaft, but don't want to piece it together. I keep hearing Rebello stroker engines being tossed around and am curious if they make a complete kit ( ie. pistons, rods, crank, wrist pins, rings, etc.) or what it is that they do. I did a search on this and have found nothing, been looking through google and nobody out there seems to offer a complete or even partial kit. If anyone can help please let me know. Tyson