pparaska

yep, I think 69 was the first year. I remeber the 69 SS350 Camaro was nice. Grumpy, I have thought the same thing about head port volume. SO do you think 215 Canfields would be too much for a street 327, if I keep the dynamic compression at 7.7:1 (my present setup)? How about the 195 AFRs? I'm thinking of maybe doing AL heads in the next 6-12 months and just dropping them on the 327, but I don't want to buy too small a head if (probably more like when) I go to a 377,383,or 406.

Grumpy, sounds nice. Any pics to show it on your Vette? What kind of power are you shooting for?

Woah, I see what you mean. That is not much between the seat and .050" lift durations! Must be some nasty springs to keep up with those acceleration rates.

Dan, I'm stealing another thread, but I don't seen how coilovers really make a car rough riding unless you put stiff springs in. And you can get a wide variety of rates with coilovers. I admit camber plates will make it harsh though.

Sounds like a typical lean surge. Have you tried changing the rods/jets/etc?

'30 over means it's been bored 0.030" over the stock 4.00", so it's 4.030". With the stock 3.48" stroke crank, that makes it a 355 cubic inch engine. Stroking it to a 383 requires a "350 mains" 3.75" stroke crank. Some people use the 400 small block crank, with the main journals turned down to "350 main bearing" size, but the new cranks for building strokers are getting pretty cheap and are available with the 350 main bearing journal size brand new. A bored 350 block, to .030" over bore (4.030" bore) with a 3.75" stroke gives you a 383 cubic inch motor.

Dan, I really like those wheels! And the price is not bad at all for such a tough size to get!

A JY 280ZX Turbo motor, etc. is going to be the best way to get an L6 to run with late model V8 GM stuff. You'd have to build a super expensive peaky NA L6 to do that.

Ditto. I'd much rather have your Edelbrock RPMs than my ported 461 iron heads.

I'm wondering if the ramjet 350 will fit under the stock hood (doesn't look like it) and how much of a L88 or ZL1 scoop would be needed.

nullbound, that's weird that there wasn't much room for V8Z guys - Henry, the club prez, has one heck of a nice V8Z! BTW, one more benefit of the JTR position is the ability to run a taller air cleaner under the stock hood. I have a stock hood, hi-rise dual plane (Holley 300-36) and 3" drop base Moroso air cleaner and it has 1/2" of clearance up front. Just a little info, not pushing the JTR over the Scarab on you.

Thanks Grump!

Thanks for the info Mike. It seems the left hander pan is a pretty good selection for long tubes.

Like John said, check the converter bolts while you're looking for cracks in the flexplate. I've seen where converter bolts that were loose sound alot like a rod pin or bearing knock.

Not sure I understand. I'd be concerned that the doors/baffles/etc. allow for keeping the oil at the pickup on RIGHTHAND turns too. Does it have the same number of doors/baffles/walls that the RR pan does? Also, after putting my engine trans back in the other day, I see I didn't gain much clearance with my 7" deep Corvette pan (OE pans are generally 7-1/2") I would like to see it at 6" deep to keep it at crossmember height, as it seems my pan is still 1" below the crossmember (just eyeballing it). Anyway, did you mean to say the difference was negligible or not negligible? Does it have a kick out on only one side? BTW, THIS PLACE has the 11-120 (the one you bought?) for $206, and the 6-1/2"? Road Race Corvette pan (PN 15-240) for $264. Those are the best prices I've seen on these pans.

Lone, funny you mention black powdercoating a HD. My dad's neighbor with the 427 Cobra replica, 98? Cobra R 'stang, and two harley's is doing just that to his vintage series HD. He has the Eastwood Hotcoat system, and stuff is going from chrome to black powdercoat little by little!

Len, thanks for the ego boost . But I'll tell you, I've learned so much in the past 2-3 years here on HybridZ, I feel like a novice. The things I would do differently if I started over! (Heck, I've redone more than a few things as I went through this project!)

I've heard that the Edelbrock numbers on those "kits" are a bit "inflated". But the heads and manifolds are o.k. (do the Performer RPM, not the Performer) but the cam is not the best grind for the purposes either in that kit.

RacerX, many thanks for that education! Obviously, I heard about flex additives before the days of urethane paints. I do remember now the guy at the body shop a few years ago saying that a base/clear urethane would be fine.

I agree DIY is a possibility, but for those not inclined to do it all themselves, Motorsport Auto http://zcarparts.com sells a kit to do a SBC into a 280ZX

Grumpy, it's actually tech tip 2005. And I agree, both this argument of his AND the tech tip 2003 seem to have a flavor of lining parts combos up to prove his point. I've played with DD2000 to see what was up with single and dual pattern cams (see tech tip 2003), and for a mufflered system, I have to say that a dual pattern cam will almost always get you more low end torque with more top end power, if you chose the durations correctly (optimize them for both areas). Very strange, I thought that I could learn something from Ed, but instead I seem to be seeing holes in his theories. I probably just don't understand what he's getting at.

Thanks, grumpy - I learn again. BTW, how about a regular vise with flat, broad aluminum jaws, if you don't have a rod vise?

Looks too much like a Porsche to me. I like the 280YZ better

Wow! With those mid lift flow numbers, your cam doesn't have to be wild to make good power either!

Mike, That seems like a lot for that pan setup, but from what I've heard you will have NOTHING to worry about if you're pulling a long high G sweeper at high rpm with it! Good deal on those rods!