Jump to content
HybridZ

Chemicalblue

Members
  • Posts

    297
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chemicalblue

  1. Im working on swaping an SX ac system into my ZX for that very reason
  2. Sorry your miss informed. I purchased the very first version of the redtop optima when they came out and had nothing but trouble with it discharging and going dead. After the company warrantied them for a few years they recommended the yellow top for high load electrical systems. After switching Ive never had an issue. Here is what their website says "The YellowTop® high-performance AGM battery is one of the only true dual-purpose automotive batteries available. With premium cranking power and unparalleled cycling capability (rechargeability), it is perfect for modern accessory-loaded vehicles. The YellowTop can repeatedly bounce back from deep power drains to full energy capacity, so it can power plenty of electronics and still start you up time after time. Lower internal resistance also provides more consistent power output and faster recharges. Trucks with winches, vehicles with multiple electronics, cars with high-demand audio systems, commercial vehicles and heavy equipment all rely on this battery to provide ultimate starting and deep cycle power."
  3. Get a yellow top, it will last 10 times longer. Tommy
  4. Now I think I get it, its MS that is the problem using stock trigger wheels. Ive been running COP and Sequential for many years now on the stock Z31 wheel. I was trying to figure out why you would want to make a low resolution wheel to replace the the high resolution stock wheel. So MS cant read the stock Nissan trigger wheel? Seems it would be much easier to change the software than reinvent the wheel.
  5. Seems like it would be a lot easier to use the 300z trigger wheel. Whats the advantage of moding the wheel?
  6. Most injectors have a min and max pressure, they also have a recommended pressure that they should be set at to get the listed ???cc. Raising the fuel pressure beyond that point has a negative effect on the injector and spray pattern and hurts the injector. I would never (from a tuning stand point) raise the fuel pressure to compensate for "keeping AFR in check", that's what the ecu is for. A RRFPR is an old school way of doing things that's not very reliable and needs to be checked constantly. If your tune in MS is correct you should be able to run as high of a boost pressure that you want, until you run out of injector flow capacity. If you are out of injector flow capacity and are set at the factory pressure, sure, bump it up till you hit the max recommended pressure. Just adjust the entire map to compensate for the change, and expect a low injector life. My 2 cents
  7. Can you put a spacer under the top strut mount and use longer bolts?
  8. Alamo Autosports would be a great choice, of course if your a member of the Cowtown Z Club you will get a discount. Tommy
  9. I agree with Tim, Ive been using an Lc1 for years with no issues. Yes, wide-band sensors need to be heated. A lot of people make the mistake of mounting them at the bottom of the exhaust where water collects when warming up the car. That will cause failures as well.
  10. I'm thinking 5 bar for the oil and fuel, ant 3 should be fine for the coolant. But I was thinking if someone knew of a car from yr 2000 p that I may source them for $50 total at pick n pull. It would be really cool if the oil pressure sensor also read oil temp? Thanks for the advise, Ive been looking at the aem brass sensors but didn't know if they would work for my application.
  11. So I'm looking into adding a few sensor inputs to my P2K, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and coolant pressure. Ive been searching a bit tonight and other than $150 sensors I haven't fount much. Does anyone know a good source to buy gm style sensors at a reasonable price? I don't see why I couldn't pull some at pick n pull for practical nothing, but the problem Ive found is I have no idea what cars are a good donor match. Im thinking something like this Sensor If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated.
  12. Im on under Tommy Deere, be my friend My link
  13. There a little screws under the column housing, the trim around the ignition switch has to be popped out too. Make sure your gentile pulling it apart, there are little plastic dowels that hold it together as well. The lighting harness ground should be on the passenger side fender well, close to the middle.
  14. ya still in arlington? i'm in lancaster and i'm planning on a rb20det swap into my 83 s130

  15. I have a Z, and I drive it....

  16. Ive searched around and haven't found a real answer to "How to test a weak Ls1 coil". I believe I could have a couple of weak coil packs installed that are allowing the spark to blow out at peak hp and torque. Does anyone know of a way to take a reading that will let me know if they are weak? I have a volt/ohm meter, but no fancy oscilloscopes or anything like that. Ive tested them by grounding out a spark plug and looking at the color of the spark while cranking. The couple in question seem to have a yellow spark, and the others seem more white blue in color. Here is the exact coil My link
  17. If there are only two wires on the switch attaching them together will complete the circuit. I do remodeling for a living and I would never want a fan or light with out a switch. Reason being it easier to walk into a room and flip a switch , instead of looking for the fan pull switch in the dark. Always test voltage in any wiring situation to make sure you are fully aware of whats going on , Ive seen people especially in older homes that just use any color wire to run lights and outlets so you cant go by color alone. Typically whites are neutrals and blacks are hot.
×
×
  • Create New...