EvilC

Last day before the gf comes down....had a nice time out. Today went and saw Scottie and his sweet rx-7. This is def a car I should not have seen in person....I think I am going to build a drag car! To make it worse, we go by and see Speeder(Rick) and Ken Jones 40 mins away and Rick is working on some crazy 2jz GS400, turbo lsx in a vert rx-7 and a wide body l28et Z. But.....Rick's car is killer in person. The motor/turbo setup looks angry and just wants to be cut loose in that car. As soon as I get north I will post pics, I forgot my camera to take pics of Scottie's car. Thanks Scottie for taking me around for the day and if anyone gets a chance to meet him they should. Another stand up HBZ member.

:2thumbs:

2010 Z Convention!

Next year, Joe and I will make the trip down. Looks like a great time.

Body shop that painted my car took care of it all. If you can get a welder to make house calls that would be nice if you have the space. The person can make some extra cash on the side. Is the plan to get the motor in and running then pull apart for paint or do all the body work first?

You think the floor is junk? I heard good things about the replacement floors and they are better gauge than the stock sheet metal.

You need to buy the bad dog frame rails for the v8 conversion. Also like Jeff said, the old flares will be an issue if you are going to remove them. If you take a look at my car, this is with the flares and then after I removed them. Before: After: Just be sure to plan the car out so you don't spend money twice. I had bondo and glass in my car so don't worry about that.

I wouldn't cut the floors until you have the replacements and make sure the welder is good. Also be sure to pull the dash and engine bay harness.....no cutting wires.

Dayum it is warm here...lol I plan to give Scottie a call tomorrow and pay him and Rick a visit. Tom, waiting to hear about that job. I can't believe it is November....I can drive my Z!! Note to self, buy a Z and keep at grandma's house for visits.

Looks like you are doing well on the car already! Glad things are working out for you. I def will come take a look at it when I get back north. Be sure to take lots of pics of your progress. Before painting the back half of the car, are you going fuel cell, ls1 tank or oem tank with the ls1 setup? I will pick your brain later.

I def need it, I need it the next time you make em and can pay you now if needed.

Scottie, can you pm me your info? Would love to see your car in person. I need to get in touch with Rick....hmm maybe facebook!

Well I wanted to go somewhere warm! I have never been out your way.....do I have an invite for next yr? I plan to come to Daytona one of the days...I will keep you posted. Geez, I leave in the am on the 22nd. Maybe next trip down....maybe if I find a car to buy I can make another trip down.

For the newer guys, it is a 240z with 260z doors on it, hence the door panels. 260z door panels do not fit on a 240z door shell. The only later int parts I see are the door panels and steering wheel...big deal. hoov100, not a shot at you.

Jeff you have a pretty good idea now on where on what to look for. Peter just come up with a solid game plan and stick to it. It will be worth it in the end. Double your time and budget!

Hmm, glad to hear you got it all worked out V. Is that another v8 Z in philly?

Door panel shows that it has a 260/280 panel. Before everyone goes crazy about rust and stuff. Like Dave said, be sure to check that the car is SAFE. I will not be around for two weeks but if Jeff comes by you to look it over I am sure he can help you out by looking at the known rust areas. You just don't want to start throwing money at a car that has major rust. So after you confirm rust is just in the floors, you can come up with your plan on motor swap and flat black paint job. If you are still talking about going LSx then I would swap the motor in and get it all running and working first. Once you are happy with the way she drives and running...pull it all out and do your paint. This is the way I went with my 73 --> 71 swap.

I will be flying into Orlando, Fl this Saturday to visit my grandmother who lives in Palm Bay. I believe that is the exact name of the town, lol. Anyway I will be staying there until weds the 18th when the gf flies in so I will be back in Orlando. Just wanted to know who lives in the area? Maybe if my time allows, I can say hello to some hbz members in person. I plan to stop down at the Z mecca to see Jim's car collection in person. Still warm down there right?

I have to learn how to heel n toe. When is comes to left foot braking.....do many road course drivers do it? I hear often that guys who came from dirt racing series would use it often but not many road racers.....not sure how true that statement is. I am just trying to see the benifit of it while road racing - you would need to have very good brakes to keep up with constant trail braking right? I mean wouldn't that be the benifit of using your left foot, so your right foot can stay on the gas? Also does it work when you are on a course where you have to constantly be shifting say like a LimeRock?

That would be cool Terry....x mas is right around the corner. Also are you still buying parts from yahoo japan?

I think I came up with something else looking at an old pic of my car. During suspension travel the axle stop and axle are no longer parallel. I am thinking, when this happens the axle becomes angled to the axle stop which causes the axle to become a "drill bit" and gives us the pattern we see on several of our axle stops. The case that the axle stop is in the cv housing so it should be moving at the same speed as the axle doesn't hold true because the stop can "slip" in the housing. The slip I speak of is the OD of the stop, layer of grease and then the ID od the cv housing. Does this make sense to anyone else? I am thinking that the forces acting on the housing (centripetal and normal) that axle stop is not always moving at the same speed.

I believe it is a Nissan Quest color. Yes a minivan

Vinh, I was getting nothing at the injectors when I had my issue. The PCM was not staying on during the crank cycle so nothing was sent to the injectors to fire. I am not sure if it is the same issue. Are you getting the motor to turn over and just not fire up?Last time I forgot to hook up the crank angle sensor and the motor would not fire up. I am pretty sure you checked all your connections to the motor. I am not going to be much help....I am the newbie!

David I know we spoke about this awhile back but I can't remember now. Is it the inboard cv that blew up on both sides? With Mark saying that the axle stops need to be in (which I know you have), does anyone think new stops with a bigger step to it would be a fix vs the longer axle. Here is my thought, during susp travel...the axle is moving outboard and being short...it is detroying the cv housing but "floating" outboard. Say you have the same situation happening but the axle stop is "longer" and that helps limit the "floating" of the axle, would be have the same issue? I am not sure what the normal gap is between the axle stop and axle. The axle stop being in the cv housing should be moving at the same speed as the axle, so if they touch with the stop being longer than maybe that shouldn't be a problem. That is another topic because I still can explain this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146463&highlight=axle+stop

Nice, can't wait to see it in another week.