crazyoctopus

good news bad news. good news, my new top speed in the 240 is now 84mph. bad news, at 84 mph my BRE lip nicked some debris (I thought i could clear it, I was wrong) and flew off my car and into the center divider... So now the question becomes; do I get a new BRE front lip, or do I go a different route?

i did the same thing. dont worry.

backwood, just head to my flickr page (www.flickr.com/crazyoctopus) and look at Zoe's Graduation photos. and thank you all for the compliments, I have some big plans coming for the car so now it is coming to prep time for it!

take the brakes to your local hardware store and a bolt that fits in 4x4 brake's banjo bolt hole. the 240sx rears are 10mm x 1 banjo bolts, i have no idea what the 4x4s ones are.

my feet are far larger than that... but I should have done mine... the buckets are some cheapies i found on craigslist; $200 for a pair so a friend of mine split it and we each got a seat.

pedal fun te72 240z seat install heater removal 240 extravaganza! more coming soon!!

just like with the 15/16th brake master cylinder swap check to make sure that the rod isnt pre-engaged. (tolerance on the pedal rod to the BMC). and in all on honesty i agree with 2+2, 240sx are really simple to work on; just make sure everything is where it needs to be and they will live along side any honda for just as long. check the normal 240sx forums (nico, zilvia, etc) and see what they say about it. all you may need to do is just re-set the pads/rear brake piston and things may go back to normal.

coolbeans, you need to cut and roll your fenders asap. But I am also very interested in the 4" backspacing vs 4.5" on 10s, if you are lowered you will be cutting it really close with fitment on the rear ZG flare.

www.ka-t.org

I did a bit of research on it; RTz, and Tony D agree that it is better to plug than to loop here is one of them, a poll http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=80533&st= the big one, the #5 head cooling http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=59029

because the heater loop is in the middle of the water circulation loop, so if i were to loop them some of the hot water would never get back into the radiator and it would overheat.

Been quite some time, but I just picked u pa new client and have been working all day everyday, And to top it all off to get to his office i get to take a fun windy road, which is surprisingly faster than taking the most direct route. A couple of days ago on the drive home my car started to overheat, pulled over, let it cool down and limped home. When I got to the house I filled the radiator with some fluid and checked for a leak. couldn't find it for the life of me. Then I started to rev the engine and she spat at me, there was a small pinhole in the outlet for the heater core. So I figured what better time than now to remove it! before after I have yet to remove the heater core, as I had to head to the office in the morning, but it will happen as soon as I replace the dash. When that happens. i'll make sure to make a new camera mount and get a video that isnt so... cloverfield monsterish. Any fears of this causing the engine to overheat, or to speed the heating of the engine, were thrown out the window today due to how I was driving to and from the office ;D xxxpatsabxxx -- I like it quite a bit, not too keen on how it sounds at 2100-2400rpm, but it could be the small exhaust leak right before the muffler or it rattling against a bolt. If your car is as low as mine, hell even at stock height, and you go with the 3-2 header you should cut it before the Y-pipe to suck the exhaust up into the transmission tunnel. I am pretty sure that I posted some photos and a bit of a write up earlier in the thread. And for the money it is really really hard to beat.

shika did you head on base (camp pendelton) this morning driving the z? because i could have sworn i saw that car heading in from the oceanside gate

1. way too large 2. not low enough

gutted doors 40lbs total

30 years of testing? or having a compromise between street and track.

where I installed mine, not as fancy as the others but significantly cheaper and easier. the holes, 3/8" bit test fit routing and overhead location how the lines are connected -I had two spare 10mm x 1 SS lines so i didnt have to buy any connectors or converters. Its protected cubby No extreme cutting, no need to buy a bracket just 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 2 lock washers and 4 rubber washers; cost $8, cost with the valve $46.

After reviewing how people have mounted their brake proportioning valves, I figured that i would make mine even cheaper and easier. Items purchased: two 1/4" bolts, 2 lock washers, two 1/4" nuts, set of four rubber washers cost - $2 40" of 3/8" std brake lines cost - $6 Total cost $8 Since I had an extra two SS brake lines from the MSA brake line kit, I used those for the conversion; that way i could use the 2 spare 10mm x 1 brake ends that would have been thrown away if i didn't. To top it off I didn't have to make, or buy a mounting bracket.

throttle linkage stuck at WOT, SUs (carbs) need to be tuned, choke needs to be checked, and your best best is to use the search button to figure out how to do all of this.

two l brackets from the hardware store. I am going to try some other options throughout the week and see which one is best

heh, "sounds" is the key word.

yep plexiglass, so shattering it would nearly be out of the question. This is also quite out of the question... need to figure something else out...

Thanks for the compliments! And to complete the day, the exterior look of my car is finally complete. Glad to have the crazy octopus back.

window and all of the mechanics, plus the sheet metal that cover it weigh 20 pounds; I am unaware of the weight of the interior cover.

window up window down