crazyoctopus

what size wheels and tyres are you running? Right now i think the distance from locking nut to locking nut on the rear coils was around 3.5" and the front is 100mm, but it will be going lower when I get the new parts in and swap out the header.

just had a horrid dealing with New Old Stock Motorsport, they suck balls at taping their boxes closed correctly so I didnt get the shifter bushings like i was hoping to... the roll center adjusters look great and didnt fall out of the box while in transport. Not to mention their communication, rather contact skills, are EXTREMELY lacking. My advice, stay far far away. Just ordered a set of RLCA from techno toy tuning, and will have the documentation of that install (not looking forward to removing the spindle pin) when the time comes. And once all this is done with the car and I have the car's ride height exactly where I want it, corner balanced, and aligned I will be taking a financial break from the car and just drive it. Reason for the financial break is because i just bought a new camera and should be saving right now instead of spending like I have been. Running total of the car (with recently purchased parts included) $5080

?? crazyoctopus be confused.

i love those 1/4 glass replacements!!! stealing that idea asap.

wow i had no idea the 240sx speedo sender would work on our trannys... must dig deeper

thanks jkgts1 i just ordered a set for myself and will be in the process of doing just that. do you have a pneumatic press or just a hand held crank press?

glad you enjoy what i have done to the car! so far lots of fun on the street; just have to think about where I am going to make sure that I avoid all of the big dips, and speed bumps. and frank yah, i didnt adjust the front because the roll center adjusters arrived later in the day. also because of the ride height changes, I had to order a set of TTT Rear Control arms so that I can get rid of some rear camber and fix the massive toe-in. The car will probably be on jack stands most of this week to make sure I save the tyres, and get everything replaced that needs to be.

on a related note to this, how did you remove your spindle pin? soak it and smack the bolt on the bottom? and yes shim it, make sure there is no binding on the RLCA and then shim the outside.

So I was able to get some shots of the car yesterday morning to show you how low the rear of the car actually was, and how it was driven home. Here is the angle of the front lower control arms. Angle of the rear lower control arm. Initial ride height was... Front headlight point D - 21.5"------P - 21.25" Rear bumper hole height D - 14.125"---------P - 14" Measured from these spots because there would be some inconsistencies at flare; where as if I used chassis points there would be none. I put back on the rear flare and raised the rear ride height by 1" so that there would not be any chance at all of rubbing. Thankfully there was none at all. Drove the car around to make sure that the suspension was settled and measured the rears again; they were both at 15.5". Checked clearances one more time and was completely fine with how the rears look. I did not adjust the front just yet as I was waiting to get the roll center adjusters installed. Thankfully they arrived today, and I'll be installing them Monday. The new rear lower control arm angle with the rears raised up an inch and how low the exhaust/header is to the ground... Here is the height of the zg flares from the ground, if you didnt already notice how low it is on the profile shot... Front Rear After I replace the header I am going to be raising the rears a 1/4" and lowering the fronts 1/2" to remove that fender gap in the front and give the car a tad bit of rake. Also when I get the new header I will be cutting it a bit shorter to get that exhaust tucked in a bit more to give me more ground clearance.

i'll have some photos up tomorrow at its current ride height; although in the week i'll probably be droping the front a 1/2" and raising the rear 1/4" just so i get a better look all around. the ride quality is perfect. right now i have everything set at max stiffness and it reall isnt bad. i'll be dropping them to medium tomorrow and see if there is a difference in feel.; but as it stands... I am completely in awe of how much better the car feels. btw... this is not my first car with a stock to coil-over swap, this is however the biggest improvement i have felt on a car because of it.

Day 2: Rear install I arrived at the shop around 2pm and thankfully they hadn't started on the car; Josh was prepping his car for the long trek up to Sacramento for the next LeMons race. So after a bit of time we started to tackle the rear sleeve install The spindle pin wouldn't budge so we just let it droop. Once they were out of the way, the tracing of the top bracket started. Again with the fantastics of the plasma cutter. Holed Cleaned Test placement of the bracket on the hole. Boom I’ve got a Josh in mah trunk! Plates installed Rear strut sectioned But it was too much of a PITA to get it on at the 2"-3" that dan suggested, so we cut it shorter. The passenger side kept giving us issue after issue, so we decided to leave it as is for now and come back to it after we finish the driver side. Sectinoed driver side Because the tolerance of the rear sleeve was so close to the strut tube, Josh suggested a slight grind down on the driver side to make his life easier. Cleaning Then the driver side started to give us issues... So Josh brought the heat. At this point I think Josh was thinking “F this game†Once the driver’s side was completed, it was back to full attack on the passenger side. We bolted everything together and I set the initial rear ride height But after we put on the wheel it was rubbing against the ZG flairs so we had to raise it an inch. Car was too low to get off of the lift Even with the rears raised an inch while we were adjusting; the driver side rear tyre was rubbing the ZG flair so I had to remove it for the time being. While I was driving out I got high centered on this… I scraped my exhaust on the smallest of lips getting out of the shop. Tried to get out of the parking lot but that was just not going to happen. Here is a bad photo of the ride height that was causing me issues. I reversed it back to the shop; needless to say it was rubbing and scraping on EVERYTHING. Then I drove it up on some 2x4s to get the floor jack underneath the front cross member. And sadly, I had to raise the front of the car an inch so that I could actually get out of the parking lot and to the house. The drive home was slow to say the least. The awesome lifestyle of slammed cars forced me to make sure that there were no imperfections in the road at all so that I wouldn’t be scraping parts off my car. The rear fender is about 1/4†away from the top of the tyre, and I do not want to re-cut my ZG flairs as they are made for a specific location. When I finish getting the ride height of the car perfected I’ll post the photos. I also get in the roll center adjusters today so I’ll have some updated photos of what the LCA angles are.

The teaser shot while I am sorting through the photos and making the write up. sadly, this is not the final ride height. It couldn't move more than 5 feet on a completely flat surface without tyres rubbing the fender, or the exhaust hitting the ground.

holy **** awoz, We were talking about you today. Appartently we look exactly alike, have the same voice, and have the same fondness for flat green as well... frikken nuts. thanks for compliments!

+1 to h4nsm0l3m4n I am going the same route.

Ask and ye shall receive... DAY 1, front install So I headed over to YoshiFab this morning, and we started the process of slamming the car; MASSIVE thanks to Josh for the great work and for letting me lurk around the shop taking photos of the process, and to 240zdan for making such a beautiful conversion kit! YoshiFAb is primarily a Volvo tuner btw... Side note: this is the first time that any of my cars have ever been to a shop. Close up of the unloaded fender gap for future reference Front struts removed from the car Prepping for welding the front mounts. Outlining the cut for the mount Plasma cutting, because it is frikken awesome Holed Test placement Josh being magical and making smoke Springs removed Struts sectioned at the top of the lip. It is VERY VERY important that you cut that low due to how the sleeves are machined. Strut cleaned off to give a proper welding surface Rear bung ground off to give clearance for the sleeve De-burred the strut top Pressed on with a gap left to make sure that the weld would have a good surface area to meld the sleeve and the strut The coil-overs threaded into the sleeve this is not maxed out by any means, I think I still have another inch or so of lowering possible at its current depth. This is the underside of the front mounts; notice the lip on the bottom and how close they come to the side bolt sliders. In my case this caused issues with the max amount of camber that I had available, so I talked it over with Josh and we thought the best thing to do would be to grind down the lip a bit and modify the top mount on the Megan coilover. The Megan top was cut right after the center section. You could do it on both sides to get more positive camber available, but I really doubt that it will ever be an issue. Installed without anything connected… this is the droop height, and I can still go lower Welded on the brake line tab However there is this awesome thing because of the amount of lowering that has been done. Clearance of the sway bar and tie-rod end Roll center adjusters/strut spacers are on their way to the house now so this will be corrected a bit. In the next month or so I’ll get some bumpsteer eliminators (adjustable tie-rod ends); actually once I source all of the parts needed to do it I’ll install em. Wheels put on. These shots are of the unloaded wheel. The difference in unloaded fender gap from front to rear… The only we could do to get the lift off of the car was to put the fronts on some 2x4s, the rears are loaded right now (not settled, but loaded) I’ll be heading to the shop later tomorrow as most of the things that need to be done to the rear are pretty much the same; only difference is that the rear struts can be sectioned 2-3†up from bottom of the strut tube, instead of at the lip. Have no worries though the documentation will still be awesome.

$60, if you prep and rattle can it yourself.

sexy sex sex sex came in today I cant wait to start documenting the install! MASSIVE thanks goes to 240zdan for these beauties!

hahahahhahahahahh AMAZING!

your model may not have come with a fuel pump. kill switch on ign switch in the car, and under the hood; they may find one in the cabin, but who would look under the hood? pull the ign fuse. remove coil to dizzy wire move/hide the connections to the coil. and forget the steering wheel lock... http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Y-Lock/dp/B002LTYTJ6 or http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Boot-Lock-Claw/dp/B0027E38S8

do all the work yourself and all you have to do is buy parts triple webers are going for 1300 i think, with mani and linkages, KAs are $400 (plus $450ish for the kit), SR20s are $1200 (plus the $450ish for the kit). There are alot of options, and in the end it comes down to what you like. the FIRST thing you should do before you buy anything is do a complete fluid flush, and drive the car as much and as long as possible to figure out what needs to be replaced/fixed. Once you are satisfied with it in the current condition then start modifying the car.

gut the car. remove heater and ducts, remove smog pump, bumpers, i would assume normal lightening stuff.

truth

2500 is actually quite alot when it comes to the 240z, and you can do alot with it. The first thing that you need to do is prioritize what you want to do; you laid out a general idea but before you put ANY money into the car you need to look at all of your options. That was my mistake. I figured that I'd do things down the road, and "down the road" turned into 2 months later with the parts not even being worn. So make a list, read everything on the forum you can, and take a few days to decide on whether to buy the part or not. You said you want to keep up with Mustang GTs, so I am assuming that you favor straight line power more than how the car handles. so look into power, r200s, and brakes. cygnusx1 brought some great options for power, but personally I really like the KA-turbo and SR20det swaps that are becoming more common. They are light, make good power, and have a great following (and KA twin cams are going for about $400 right now) also check out THIS thread, as I am sure it will cover alot of your initial questions

do not run a 4 point, get at least a 5 if you are going to get a harness. and those look like a paint to install. i say just save your money for the recaros.

you could always just use a plastic dash cap with a few brackets to hold it in place. Plastic is pretty light and all you need is a sharp knife to get it around your cage.