johnc

A gold Dodge Caravan with wood grained sides! All the gardeners in Garden Grove would be proud to have such a noble steed to haul their lawn mowers.

Get an old Chrysler minivan. Dirt cheap and you can lock stuff up inside it. And if something goes wrong with it, leave it by the side of the road and buy another. Some even had the Turbo 2.2 engine which, with a few simple mods, can make 250hp.

Bad thing to say on HybridZ.

Search please.

Don't get too hung up on features. I have a Precision TIG 275 and I rarely use all the stuff I ordered on it. A good, stable, controllable arc is your main concern.

If one of the cracks spans the entire width of the swept area then replace the rotor. If one of the cracks opens up to more then about .015 then replace the rotor. If they are a bunch of short, narrow cracks then you're fine.

Guys, this is a parts wanted thread and the buyer has listed what he wants. Stop threadjacking.

A6 for anything under 30 minutes. Even if they go off towards the end you'll built up such a lead... FYI... the "latest" road race thinking is that its more important to get out in front on the first lap then to have a lot of tire at the end. The reasoning behind this is that you're less likely to be in any first lap wrecks and its much harder pass late in a race.

http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p002553.htm Used one for 3 years and its a wonderful welder. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/dynasty_200_series/ Used this for a couple weeks at another shop and its also a wonderful welder. The Miller vs. Lincoln argument is like the Chevy vs. Ford argument, pointless and silly. A welder from either company is just fine. Buy whichever one you can get the best price on.

Drill each end of the crack (and make sure you find the end) and weld it up.

I use Unitrax and Orange County Driveline.

No. The N42 block has been successfully used for 500+ horsepower turbo applications here in the US and in Japan.

Right here: http://www.sillyjokes.co.uk/party/stag-night/squeeze-boob.html

It depends on your build plans. I spent a buttload of money on a Kinetic/Sunbelt built NA 3L L6 and they chose an early (1975) N42 block. Their reasoning, based on a lot of L6 engine builds, was: 1. Highest nickel content of any of the L6 blocks. 2. The cylinder bores will stay rounder at high engine temps compared to the webbed F54 and make more consistent power. 3. At the power levels I was shooting for (300 to 325hp) the extra webbing of the F54 was not needed. Kinetic/Sunbelt was also building a turbo 3L L6 for a customer at the same time and that engine made 628 hp on their engine dyno. They chose a F54 block for that build.

I have a tester in Alabama that's going to drag race his car a half-a-dozen times through the end of the year and go to one or two autocrosses. He's even got his wife and daughter involved in the testing. The side axles really only deal with torque and shock loads (no lateral loads like the stub axles) so drag race testing is very appealing to me. Thanks for all the volunteers. I'll keep you folks updated on the progress.

For what car?

I know I missed your October event. Is February your next planned outing with the car? If so, that's a bit too far for our for testing. I hope to have the production run done by then.

Got 'em! Two minor issues: 1. The hole for the studs are a bit big so I need to tack weld the styds in place on these prototypes. This will be fixed on the production run. 2. The splines were cut about .400" to far into the axle. Again this will be fixed on the production run. The axles are 4340 and heat treated to 46 Rockwell. Should be strong enough for anything put through an R180. The half shafts will got before these.

Heavy85's build: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154642

Good fit. Some suggestions: Depending on how tall you are, you might want to stand the bar up a little bit to get it just in front of the hinge support roof structure. You want the main hoop within 6" of your head as you sit in the race seat. Weld 4" wide tabs from the hinge support structure to the main hoop in two place near where the rear braces meet the main hoop. Cover over the opening in top of the rear strut towers with plate and run the rear braces just outside of the mounting point for the struts. Add a horizontal brace from the main hoop at shoulder height to the rear brace.

I pick up the prototype parts tonight. We used good material, the splines carburized out to 46 Rockwell. Hopefully they fit. After I screwed up the drawing on the first set I'm worried about all the other dimensions - even after triple checking everything.

You can call Setrab and they will do the cooler capacity calculations for you.

Shouts of "Oh Shiit!"?