johnc

And I worked with the engineers at C&R/Visteon when designing my radiator and we calculated the BTUs for my setup. Worked great in 110 degree weather at WSIR. Maybe give them a call with your specs. You might be surprised and can maybe plan for a later upgrade.

Port match the header to the gasket, Cut the three bolt flange and the neck down to 2.5" off the end of the header and run a slip fit with collector bolt tabs, test fit a few times dry to make sure the ports line up. I used a light coat of Permatex Copper RTV between the header and the gasket.

No it won't. A properly setup coolant/oil heat exchanger works better then an air/oil heat exchanger mounted in the airflow to the radiator. I rand a smaller liquid capacity double pass radiator then a stock sized 3 row radiator for a 325hp road racing NA L6.

Switch to a coolant/oil heat exchanger. I did that using a Niagra unit and eliminated the air flow issue.

No backorder on the bearings if you give the bearing number to a bearing supplier. And the 8610s are not infinitely adjustable. They have a top rebound adjustment that has a full range of 3.5 turns. Also, that are valves for spring rates over 250 lb. in.

If you accept the insurance money offered for the total and then buy the car back from them state law requires them to update the title to reflect that the car was salvaged from a total loss. If you don't file a claim you can keep the car's title clean.

Most likely a bad electrical ground on the gauge. But is can also be a broken oil pump shaft, loose pickup tube, worn out oil, a clogged pickup, low oil level, wrong viscocitu...

I've always done it out of the car. I think there's a ole in the side that you can jamb a screwdriver in to keep the spring from pulling the shaft down but I might be confusing a E356 column with a 240Z column (I've worked a lot on both).

Look for new wear spots on the e-brake cables, brake lines, anywhere on the halfshafts/CVs, etc. Its most likely an external rubbing not an inside the diff thing. You should also change your diff fluid every couple events if its getting really hot.

No but it really helps. My issue is with the double decker nature andc ride height. It's really too high off the ground and there's no control to keep the air on the sides of he car spilling under and ruining the low pressure.

FYI... that diffuser is for decoration.

Track it down before throwing parts.

You can take the bumpsteer spacer off or grind the end of the LCA.

It all depends on the family and the business. We have the owner's 22 year old son here and he's working his ass off doing the shit jobs (scraping undercoating off the undersides of old Porsches), he gets paid the least, and gets yelled at the most. The kids is hanging in there because he loves the cars and knows, if he does well for the next 30 years, all this will be his.

Slot the strut towers and move the front LCA mounting point up 3/4" and out 1/2". You'll have to cut off the inner welded washer on the cross member and then plate the entire inside area with sheet metal of equal thickness as the washer you removed. Cut, weld, and then drill. Do not move the mounting points out farther then 1/2" on each side or your tie rod will end up too short to be safe for track use. Make absolutely sure you retain the same hole alignment as stock. For you're driving caster should be +4 to +5. equal on both sides. You can get that by placing hardened washers in front of the forward TC rod bushing big washer. Use new stock rubber LCA bushings and new rubber TC rod bushings. What you sacrifice in ultimate handling precision you make up with less driver fatigue and a more forgiving car when a driver screws up. On the rear slot the strut towers and run urethane inner LCA bushings. Keep the rubber outer LCA bushings. Run big anti roll bars front and back to control roll and cut another coil out of your lowering springs - only if your struts are shortened. Add good progressive (not urethane) bump stops and use them as additional springing: http://performance-suspension.eibach.com/motorsport/products/accessories/bumpstops

There are so many examples of 1980s, 1990s US cars with great engines in a crap chassis: GN/GNX, Dodge Cummins Diesel Trucks, Fox Mustang, Pontiac 6000STE, LT1 Corvette,...

Thanks for doing the research.

I think HybridZ and the Hellaflush/Stance crowd have come to a truce. As long as the low look is thought of as a style thing instead of a performance thing, we're OK with it. What gets us racers pissy is when Hellaflush/Stance is talked about as if its a performance mod.

You should call the BAR office and ask them, or find a referee and see what they say.

Yes, you want to securely hold the bar in place against the transverse link brace yet not so tight as to bind the bushing against the bar. And yes, spacing the rear anti-roll bar mount rearwards so that both bar links are vertical at your static ride height is a very good idea. Typically its 1/2 to 5/8" depending on how low your car is. You;ll need to cut and drill some aluminum flat stock to make the spacer.

Make sure the rear bar is not binding. Sometimes you need to put a washer between the U clamp that the transverse link brace at each bolt.

Back when I was a partner in a software company we would periodically scan all the servers and PCs to see what folks had loaded on the company equipment. We stood three employees up in front at an all hands meeting and fired them very publicly for all the porn they had on their machines. We referred one to the local district attorney and provided the evidence. We also told all the people, by name, who had downloaded music and video that we had deleted it all just before the meeting. One guy was running a DJ business on the side off our servers and he was pissed and started to mouth off. He was given the option of shutting up or getting fired. He shut up. Never, ever had a problem again.

Another option: http://www.mcmaster.com/#circlips/=njpuoa

Solid front diff mount contributed to the problem. Tokicos with poor rebound control at those spring rates are probably why you're gettign wheel hop.Wheel hop was the direct cause of the failure. Solidly mount the diff and the mustache bar or use poly as the mounts. Don't mix and match. Then you aren't paying attention... They have very little rebound control with spring rates above 250.

Not true regarding the bearings unless you're only source is MSA.