johnc

1. No. 2. Try it and see how it goes. 3. Do this if 2 doesn't work out.

No. The practical limit is determined by the suspension mounting points and where the roll centers end up. In general, on 14" wheels, you can't go lower then 5" measured at the rocker panel without changing the inner mounting points of the front lower control arms. On 15" wheels you're limited to about 5 1/2", 16" wheels about 6", etc. This practical limit is for a good handling S30. If you don't care about handling then you can go much lower, but then why would you be looking at installing the Konis if you don't care about handling?

Throw it away and find another E31. If someone was able to bend all 12 valves they've certainly done a lot more damaged to that head.

The markings on the outside mean noting. I can write all kinds of stuff on the case and it doesn't mean that's what's inside. Better pics would help.

There's no way a consumer can know. Sometimes you can hints from recall notices like this one: http://yournexttire.com/toyo-recalls-8-models-of-pickup-and-suv-tires/

A LSD is better then a welded diff and a welded diff is better then an open diff. At track speed and with the right suspension setup you don't notice the welded diff. Its driven with a loose rear setup. You come into the corner, trail brake to get the back end rotating, and then slap the throttle down and steer out of the corner with the throttle. It can get hard on rear tires which tend to go away towards the end of the race.

Check to make sure your diff mounts are good, add some 80W/140 gear oil, and drive it 'till it blows.

I've run those and the 4.38 front truck R180s and never had a howling problem. I don't think Nissan made a special gear cut for those units because the expected time actually engaged would be small. Remember, those trucks had locking front hubs so the axles would free wheel when in 2WD.

It can work with the stock hinges and cetner latch if you add the optional inner frame and make two hinge plates that duplicate the stock plates welded to the OEM hood by Nissan. Go to my web site and go Products > Body Composites > S30 for pictures.

Same is true regarding the R888 vs. RA1 in spec Miata here in Cal Club. SCCA just approved the R888 for Spec Miata nationally because Toyo is planning on discontinuing the RA1.

I think I sell the only real carbon fiber hoods for the S30 - all carbon fiber, no fiberglass. If you want a carbon fiber look (a layer of clear CF on top of a fiberglass hood) I think there are still a couple companies making those style. I make those as well but mine cost a bit more thent he others. And then there's shipping...

BFGoodrich has just released a 225/50-15 R1. They are comparable to a RA1 but with more grip. On a light car like the S30 they will last about 40 to 60 heat cycles or 3 to 5 track weekends. I ran these on my 350Z and they stuck better then RA1s but not as well as V710s or the Hoosiers. Given that your budget and your 15 x 7 wheels are your limiting factor, that's what I recommend. Don't fall for the wide tire on a narrow rim (your 235 on a 7" rim) thing because that just kills the life of the tires and doesn't get you appreciably more grip. Tire Rack has that tire for $194 each.

Its degrading into a "my engine is better then your engine" thread. We've seen this many time before on HybridZ when a poster asks for opinions on which engine to choose for their swap. The admins have discussed banning this type of discussion before but we've held back. IMHO, an engine choice is an emotional choice and efforts to turn it into a rational/logical choice are foolish, unless you are in some type of competitive race series. Again, IMHO, because its an emotional choice some folks feel the need to defend their own choice of an engine for their HybridZ. Arguments ensue about which engine is more powerful, which is more advanced, which is more "pure", etc. none of which has anything to do with a specific person's emotional response to a particular engine. There's no need for that here.

I'm taking bets on how many more posts are made here before I shed this thread. I'm guessing 1.

Use the Koni gland nut.

Remember, on HybridZ there is no "best."

It its just for ripping around on track days then any tire will work. Shaved Proxes RA1s last about the longest and fall off the least because they start with less grip then the other DOT-R tires. A set of Hoosier A6s on the track will make you drive like Superman and if you're in any kind of tight competition you'll need 'em.

Replace them, add turn down, all a Supertrapp tip.

Funny that all the work is done on the intake side. The exhaust on the L6 heads is where the work needs to be done. I bet someone got halfway through the project and shelved it for some reason.

Aerodynamics have become so important in the professional level of motorsports that race engineers look at the aero needs first and mechanical grip needs second. If you get the aero right, the mechanical grip almost takes care of itself. What we discuss and do here regarding mechanical grip on our 40+ year old cars is kind of a dying art. At some point in the near future we will be looked upon the same as the old British mechanics who worked with Whitworth tools, mechanical shocks, kingpins, and sliding pillars.

I can't speak for the OSG clutch but my 5.5" Quartermaster made the same noise. Switching to a roller pilot bearing pretty much eliminated it but brought a whole different set of problems. I went back to the bronze pilot bearing and just lived with the noise. Hell, the whole car was loud anyway so one more rattle didn't' matter.

1. Get the rule book from the sanctioning body you intend to run with. 2. Read it. 3. Think about it. 4. Make your engine decision.

BTW... I do think cars can be art. I'm not hating on that at all. For me, my car is an expression of winning, as Charlie Sheen would say.

Where you placed the pins is fine and is where I've placed them on my cars and my customer cars. I think the issue is the hood isn't stiff enough. I had that problem with my earliest FG hoods and I had to upgrade to a Divinycell foam core (http://www.diabgroup.com/europe/products/e_prods_2.html) to keep the hood stable at speeds up to 120mph. At speeds over that the core needed a further upgrade to Nomex honeycomb. Adding an OEM style inner frame solves the problem at pretty much any speed up to about 150.

Most likely a Centerforce clutch.