johnc

A 1" MC will require less travel but more pedal pressure to get the same braking force as a 15/16".

Its also helps to have the rear end dance under braking because it usually scares the guy behind who's trying to decide where to make a pass. Sometimes they will just stay back there waiting for you to wreck and that's where they finish the race.

You can add a 5th and 6th hood pin at the strut towers.

Perfectly normal. When you get the brake balance right the back end should move a round a bit when you're at the limit. IMHO, don't change anything until you do some more testing. Next time give it a little more brake to make sure the fronts lock first. If the back locks first, then move bias forward a little bit and try again.

Always send the it Priority Mail International if you use USPS. You can even track it on their web site using the Customs Declaration number. And if your customer complains about the shipping cost, ask him to arrange shipping from his end and you'll make sure to hand it to the carrier when they show up at your door.

On stock S30 front calipers the R4S won't last very long on the track. The R4 doesn't last much longer either. Porterfield upgraded the R4 to a R4E material for heavy duty track use but I've never run those. The local ITS racers ran Hawk Blues as a minimum and many had Porterfield custom cut HT10s or PFC 97s. The OEM front brakes on a S30 get very hot with track use (over 1,000F by my IR heat gun measurements in the hot pits) which is tough for any pad. R4S has a max temp of around 800F. Regarding the OP's original post, the R4S is a good performance street pad with good bite. You list a bunch of mods in your post, were those done at the same time as the pad change to the R4S?

No sense complaining about something you can't fix. It just brings everyone down. If you live in California there's a game that you have to play to get a HybridZ on the road. Its not a particularly tough game once you know the rules a do a little planning. And once you win (winning!) its pretty easy from then on and your HybridZ is worth more then another one that hasn't won (winning!). That's the Torpedo of Truth.

My guess it that its a European hill climb series and those are custom built "specials" using motorcycle engines.

I've heard that the lack of corner workers is one of the big issues with running the ring. Its just too big.

They went to the trouble of adding that brace but kept the stock diff mount and strap. I think the brace is of dubious value but it may solve a problem that I'm not aware of. As Jon said, a lateral brace to the mustache bar mounts will do a lot to stabilize the rear transverse link brace.

Well, technically no. The court is the law and the ref just makes a determination about the smog certification. You could scrap the car, get the scrap certification from the junkyard, go to court and pay the fine, and never go to the ref. I know of at least one car where that was done and the complete drivetrain, suspension, and interior ended up in another vehicle a month later.

http://www.bogartracingwheels.net/

A decision to flare a S30 is essentially a one way decision. Its very expensive to un-flare a car. Keep that in mind.

If you get your Hybrid car certified you won't get harassed. Like I said, I did a KA24DE swap into a 510 and we just went through the referee process. That car is just like any other 510, its exempt from the bi-annual smog inspection. I also worked on a customer's 1978 280Z that has a certified and stamped 327 SBC Chevy swap from before 1995. His car is perfectly legal and he gets a smog inspection every two years like the regulations require. Never had a problem. And your car buddies fears are unwarranted. Out of state cars are exempt from any of our smog laws. Its funny that the folks outside of California are the ones that most fear our states smog laws. Ignorance breeds fear?

I think its generally accepted that if you piss off a cop he is going to make your life hell. If he can write you up under CVC 27156 its really easy for him because you just go away and get sucked into the system where someone else makes your life hell. With the roadside tests things might be different, although I've seen a CHP officer at every one of these. My guess is that he issues a 27156 citation if the inspectors find something.

Called my BAR rep and he said this is how it works: 1. Officer cites under 27156 (http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc27156.htm). 2. 27156 says its a violation of the law to operate the vehicle (except to get it home or to a repair facility) until proof of correction is provided to the court. 3. The courts currently only accept proof of correction from a referee. None of this has anything to do with the biannual or sale smog inspection program that I mentioned above. Its completely outside the program and is a law enforcement action.

OK, I see what you're saying regarding the paragraph and section numbering. You're right regarding the wording of the part of 44011 I quoted - it only applies to 6 years old or newer. You might also be right regarding an absolute exemption from testing by using this section (44011) but there may be other sections that override. I'm going to make a phone call to my BAR rep and ask for further info. And sorry for the spooner comment, you do raise a good point.

I think the point of confusion is that the CVC (California Vehicle Code0 is a set of laws and the BAR is tasked with implementing those laws with its own set of regulations. What I quoted above are the BAR regulations regarding smog checks and which vehicles are exempt from those smog check regulations. The BAR regulations are a superset of the CVC and state how those CVC will be enforced. For those entities that operate under the BAR regulations, those regulations control. Having worked through the issue discussed here with a referee and the BAR office in Placentia, CA I can't be more clear in stating that if you get sent to get a smog check by a police officer or BAR representative you have to (by the regulations) complete that smog check or, at a minimum, the vehicle registration will not be renewed. A smog tech can make their own personal decision on whether they will run a vehicle through the test but that decision does not absolve the vehicle owner from getting the check done within the required time period and a smog tech cannot cancel the summons. The vehicle owner would have to find a smog tech that would complete the test or go to a referee. I've built a Datsun 510 with a KA24DE swap for a customer in 2006 and got it smog certified through the referee process. I spent a lot of time discussing these exact issues with BAR reps and the referee. You guys can believe what you want and if you feel that the CVC has a section that does not require smog certification/compliance for 1975 and earlier vehicles I strongly recommend you call BAR and get their opinion on this. Ultimately, that's the entity you have to convince.

California Department of Consumer Affairs Bureau of Automotive Repair Laws and Regulations dated May 12, 2010 Health and Safety Code section 44011 "Certificate of compliance or non-compliance; biennial requirement; exemptions; inspections; exemptions from testing for collector motor vehicles." (subsection C) - All motor vehicles exempted by this paragraph shall be subject to testing and to certification requirements as determined by the department, if any of the following apply: [paraphrasing the three sub, sub sections) i) Evidence of tampering through remote sensing, visual inspection, other means, ii) Vehicle previously registered out of state,. iii) Vehicle selected for testing via 44014.7 or any other provision of this chapter authorizing inspection. Is that enough evidence for you or do you need to be spoon fed some more?

Its a 5% difference. That's probably 300 rpm.

When I had a stocky, fully compliant 240Z I used to drive to one of those roadside inspection stations (if they were close by) and asked to be inspected. I was trying to skew their survey numbers in our favor. I only got inspected once. The second time the VIN came up in their system and they asked me to leave. From then on I knew that car was golden and I started a bunch of mods on it. Sold it later and the new owner never had a problem.

With positive caster and a positive scrub radius the outside steered tire, as it rolls over, will push up on that corner of the suspension as the tire gains camber and tries to stand up on its inside edge. That's one of the contributing things in caster's self-steering effects - the weight of the car pushing down on the tire as you try to raise it with the steering wheel. Conversely the inside tire loses camber and drops. I checked this back when I had the ROD on a set of corner scales. Its real (at least with the car static on scales).

More positive caster adds weight to the outside front and inside rear wheel in a corner. The tighter the track the more benefit you get. There's no one best setting for toe, caster, camber, etc. and I think some on this thread forget that. I would run more of each at tight tracks like Streets of Willow and less of each at fast tracks like Willow Springs big track. Lap times and tire temps are your best quantitative measure.

The front bar from the ST 280Z kit will fit. The rear bar will not unless you have the factory rear bar (or the mounts) on your car.

It depends on the R200 you installed. I think all of the R200 side shafts that bolt up to 510/240Z halfshafts are a center bolt design. Unbolt the halfshafts from the stub axle side, unbolt your control arms, and lower the R200 and the halfshafts out as a unit.