johnc

All Nissan L6 blocks are pretty much the same except for bore size and the siamesed F54 blocks.

If you're only resource for tires is Tire Rack, then you're really limiting your search. Also look at 225/45-15.

Well... it looks like my last source (JESCO) for the LD28 water pump has dried up. They are selling the gasoline water pump to the diesel guys for $175 each! Nice margin. Maybe its time to machine a few impellers...

You don't want to buy my regular gas L6 water pump for $175?

FYI... a big diesel supply house just sent me two gasoline L6 water pumps in sealed Nissan boxes with the LD28 part number on it (21010-17SY7). The owner of the supply house pooped his pants when I sent him a picture confirming the problem. He's talking with Nissan USA to find out what's up.

Best what? Best BS artist, best shop that takes forever to get shit done...

Probably normal. Try replacing your engine and trans mounts.

I sell a conical top hat (upper spring perch) that will fit the Konis or the Tokicos (if you drill the center hole a bit larger). These upper spring perches seat perfectly against the OEM upper insulator. You just discard the OEM upper spring perch.

They probably have much better things to do with their time then optimizing where the come up on a Google search when someone has no idea what their name is.

That's the clown car from one of the earlier Grassroots Motorsports $2K challenges. Its not really race ready unless they've done more to it since the article cam out years ago. It was built for less then $2K.

I can't find an photos. From the chassis of the car at the mustche bar mounting point: 1. Cup with an ID greater the the mustache bar bushings. 2. Mustache bar bushing. 3. Mustache bar. 4. Mustache bar bushings. 5. Big washer. 6. Locknut. A round tube is welded from the side of the cup to a plate that bolts to the junction of the transverse link and the transverse link braces.

Helmets don't expire. Some helmet manufacturers recommend replacing a helmet after a set period of time but there's no expiration date. Track organizations generally only allow the current and the previous generation Snell approval for any helmet used on a race track. That would be Snell M2010 and M2005 for motorcycle helmets.

Same as the L6 crank. 51 to 52 lbs. IIRC.

This HybridZ. There is no "best."

The braces I built (build) go to the subframe with a cup and then the mustache bar bushings and bar stack in the cup. And yes, there's definitely a need for this brace if you're pulling over 1G lateral or launching hard on slicks.

You can put a jack on the harmonic balancer and support the engine that way. Probably have to pull the front anti-roll bar.

Lateral loads are your main concerns. A brace from the transverse link brace going to the mustache bar mounts is pretty effective. As for the diff, the mustache bar is designed to handle torque and the front diff mount is designed to handle the fore/aft locating. The RT front diff mounts and urethane or solid mustache bar mounts are all you'll probably need.

You also, somehow, need to get at the studs to put the nuts bolts, and fat washers on and off. And you need clearance for the header flange and primary tubes, steering shaft, and motor mount bracket.

Normal JetHot Sterling does next to nothing for heat reduction. JetHot 2000 actually works at heat reduction. Swain has the most functional heat reducing coating although its not as pretty as Jet Hot's products. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273930 FYI... for my own cars I've always run Swain's coatings. For any of those companies, just call their 800 number to get the proces started.

The best you can hope for is a 3.6% increase in power, assuming a perfect utilization of that extra 100cc. On a 200hp engine that's 7.2hp. Your call.

The poor man's crack check is Kerosene and chalk. Wipe the surface with Kerosene and them wipe it dry with a cloth dampened with Acetone. Rub or sprinkle chalk over the surface and wait a few minutes. The Kerosene will leach into the chalk and show as a brown line. The line won't be as sharp as with a true crack test product, but you'll know there's a crack there.

Or worn stock springs on a ITS 2.4L engine. At Cal Speedway and a couple Buttonwillow configurations you have to run that engine over 7,300 rpm for a time. After a race weekend you see a 5% drop in valve spring pressure on the stock springs from doing that. The next race weekend you will only see 7,150 rpm before the engine flattens out. Keep pushing it and you won't be able to go over 7,000 by the end of the weekend. If you don't replace the valve springs you'll bend a valve the following race weekend on one of your heroic pass efforts at the end of the longest straight. Ask me how I know that.

250 to 275.

Looks like a nice 4 pinion clutch pack LSD to me.

Swapping the 240Z suspension corners into a 280Z is not a bolt-on operation. You must mix and match parts from the 240Z and 280Z suspensions. In addition to insulator difference there are also strut length differences and where the spring perches are positioned on the strut tubes are also different. Whether those differences cancel each other out and work is a case-by-case situation. I stand by my original answer.