johnc

Just an FYI. Those tube type oil coolers create a significant pressure drop. In most cases they are not an issue because there is a good deal of pressure reserve with the L6 oil pump but in a racing situation where you're running at high rpm a good deal of the time a stacked plate oil cooler has a much lower pressure drop.

I dunno. For myself I build cars to perform a certain way and to win competitions. Function over form is my thinking. I am not concerned about expressing myself through my car or living the "automotive lifestyle." I've been told I don't have enough tattoos to be an "authentic" member of the automotive lifestyle. And Chris Bangle is a douche'.

Under the hood, top (or back) right corner. Most are faded or gone by now.

As you said, it depends on the vehicle and usage. A FWD road racer surely doesn't want any squat under acceleration and in general most road racers want very little, if any squat. The process of "squatting" slows down the vehicle's response. It takes X amount of time for the rear suspension to compress and the front suspension to extend. As that is happening the sprung mass is not really accelerating much in the direction desired.

http://www.hybridz.org

Well, everyone is wrong. Cracking in 304 has much more to do with the preparation and welding process then the base material. Make sure your fitup is as perfect as possible with no gaps greater then the diameter of the filler. Use 308L filler wire. Purge the inside of the tubes with 100% Argon for 5 minutes before welding and plug each end of the tube with bronze wool or a heat resistant plug. Keep the purge going while welding. Use a 1/16" thoriated tungsten and a 1/16" diameter filler wire. Keep the tungsten sharp and clean. Tack in four places evenly around the tube and run a weld bead from tack to tack without stopping (you'll need to make few dry runs for each bead to get this right before welding). Make sure the bead wets in and try to minimize the heat input while still getting good penetration. Pause at the end of each bead for about 10 seconds to let the bead cool under an Argon shield.

I ran 275/45-16s all around with a LOT of suspension modifications. I strongly suggest coil overs in front otherwise the scrub radius will get pretty bad. You do have to run some scrub in the S30 front end to make it handle but the additional 1.5" of outboard spacing on the wheels is bad. You're also going to have to do something about camber and caster with that wide a wheel/tire combo up front. If you still go with the Tokico springs, do not use the 240Z Tokico springs. Go with the 280Z springs.

You will also reduce the chance of vapor lock by keeping the line from tank to regulator at a higher pressure while keeping the low pressure fuel line a short as possible. My guess though is that you really, really want to run the FPR at the tank and are just looking for some validation of your plan.

As requested. Your end links are too short and will cause a bind in the rear suspension. Its usually better to go with the Suspension Techniques rear mounted anti-roll bar on a lowered S30. You can try flipping the stock bar over and mounting it under the lca as suggested above. Make the end links at least 3" front lca to the bar.

This swap is pretty common in the vintage racing world.

Most adjustable rear LCAs will allow a reduction in rear track width but I don't think you can get a 1" reduction. Its better to leave rear track as is and increase front track width. Roll your front fenders or do a simple flare.

I guess you could. I think you're missing something though, caliper position (clocking) as to do with the chassis not the caliper itself. Nissan designed the S30 to have the caliper clocked at the 2 to 3 position based on packaging considerations and their desired braking performance. The S30 is a front steer car.

` If your goal is to do as little work as possible, then you're on the wrong site. Swapping stub axles gives you a chance to inspect them, replace the bearings and seal, and generally clean stuff up. IMHO, that's a bit plus.

Get it. Its essentially a free car. If the rust is too much for you to tackle you can part the car out and probably get $1,000 total once all the parts are sold. Also, its a tool to teach yourself about rust and body repair. If you f*&^ it up, no big deal.

I'm not really sure what you're saying, but most folks who do a Z32 brake swap on a 240Z mount the calipers in the stock 240Z position. Do search here and on Google, the swap is well documented.

The 280Z stub axles fit in the 240Z housings. There's no advantage to running 280Z strut tubes.

Just flip the other calipers. Almost all front brake calipers are behind the hub center line so they should naturally have the bleeders in the right spot.

A long burnout in an open two pinion diff is the classic way to blow it up.

As mentioned above, Neil comes from an open wheel background. Sometimes you have to do things as a driver in a production based sedan that you wouldn't do in an open wheel or sports racer. I've raced all three and you don't trail brake a sports racer or an open wheel car (or a Toyota MR2 for that matter) because of their low MOI. They will snap around. A high MOI car like a production based car often needs some "rotational help" in the form of trail braking.

Just because you have parts lying around doesn't mean they are a good fit for a S30. You would probably be better off selling those Evo8 brakes using the money to buy a more common brake upgrade for the car.

I've installed lots of oval XR1s in the 16" length (40575) in S30s. Yes you need two 90 degrees 3" OD tube bends on a 4" CLR or less but you can get those from SPD, Burns, etc. You will still be able to see parts of the oval muffler if you're standing a little ways behind the car.

Send me your e-mail address. I know a guy looking for a 4:10 R200 if you want to sell it.

An OSG Super Lock in an R200 should be plenty strong. They have been behind a couple 1,000hp+ Japanese RB30 drag cars for a few years.

Actually, the shock is the final bullet that kills an already failing axle. In most cases a small crack develops at a stress riser (spline cut) and slowly propagates through the axle. At some point a shock load overcomes the remaining yield strength of the already cracked axle and BANG, your done.

No.