DavyZ

I should have known that they would look like they belonged there...just like everything else on your car--a real 10! Nice work, Hanns. Davy

Sometimes the header has to be heated up with a torch and 'dimpled' in the area of interference to give a little room. Of course, if your headers are ceramic coated, that does present an issue... Do you have a photo of where the interference is? Davy

I was going to suggest Classic Datsun, but they only have fiberglass units. Is there a specific reason for the poly? I know they flex, but the spook is a bit higher than a typical airdam, no?

After the acetone I would try "Peeler" which is made by Kleen Strip I think. Peeler is a stripper that sprays on and is designed to only lift the top layer of paint off and leave the primer on the metal if one is using it on body panels--you use compressed air to literally blow the lifted paint off the panel. I don't think the chemical strippers will truly hurt the stainless trim and window frame, although I have no idea about the chrome. I imagine the chrome plating is hard enough to remain unaffected. Like any chemical process, I would not allow it to sit any longer than usual, no matter what you decide to use. Conventional wisdom says go mild first and then go heavy if mild doesn't work. Hopefully the prior owner didn't scuff the metal before painting, because if they did, you would have to deal with that too. The stainless could be polished, but the scuffed chrome may be another story. Good luck!! Davy

Great progress so far! I like the idea of using the (cheap) spray foam as opposed to foam core. The splitter looks good and you will hold it in place how? I'm curious about the bracing you will use. Davy

I mounted the lower radiator bracket (JTR) to the existing holes underneath on the 240Z. Aside from removing as much rust from those welded in nuts in the frame, I was able to bend the bracket points just right, drill the holes into the bracket and mount it using the existing frame nuts. I think this is much better than drilling new holes through the frame. No thanks, the existing ones are plenty good enough... Davy

Very nice looking with the grill. I think you did an excellent job and it is very unique--nice work. Davy

I can't believe it fit that well from the get-go...nice! I like the mesh you used in the bottom photo since it makes it less characteristically "Mustang." Yes, I like the rallye look too! Davy

The third run looks REALLY quick coming out of the hole. The car just leaves. Now. Amazing! The car even looks good too! Davy

Ah, then I shall revise my comment: Excellent! Man, that's exciting and already nearing the 7's after just three runs. I'm wondering just how fast this car is going to be?! Thanks for posting the results.

Josh, I was seeing that you kept your windshield washer bottle/reservoir in the stock location, which is the same thing I am trying to accomplish. I have been looking at the Wilwood Master Cylinders since they apparently have a smaller base and would allow for a larger brake booster from a 280Z or 280Z 2+2 for the brakes. I think Miles was the one who mentioned the Wilwoods for that very purpose, but it is good to know the shorty Tilton will work with the clutch & slave just fine. That pretty much confirms that I will be going to a shorty version of either one in the near future, so thanks very much for posting it!! Wilwood shorty MC Davy

Excellent! Man, that's exciting and already almost into the 8's after just three runs. I'm wondering just how fast this car is going to be?! Thanks for posting the results. Davy

Good, clean looking conversion. I like the sound from the Greedy muffler--at least on my computer I do. It almost sounds like a foreign V8 or something...not American anyway. I am shocked that it isn't louder, but maybe that's due to the 2.5" single pipe to the rear? Your car is driveable, unlike mine! Did you fabricate those brackets for the pins? They look very sturdy and functional. I like the fact they bring the pin further into the hood rather than near the edges. I was going to go with some SPARCO latches I bought from way back, but now that the prices for these Aerolatches have come down to a reasonable level, I may just go with those. I eliminated the stock hood latch in my 240 already during this conversion and don't want to go back to a modified JTR-type stock latch. Davy

I believe they are these: Aerocatch EDIT: beat to the punch

Love the front shot of the car with those big BIG BIGturbos in front. For some reason I can't save it as a photo? Very cool indeed. Great progress and we can't wait to see this car in action. Davy

Miles, I think I found a cheaper alternative on a Third Gen forum for the McLeod roll pin adapter: Summit Racing Part Number RUS-640281 You actually get two of them and they come in around $21 for the pair. I believe these are the same thing basically...at least I hope I am right since I already ordered them!! Davy

Just to update the thread, it looks like there is a cheaper alternative to the McLeod roll pin adpater for the Camaro slave cylinder: This is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/ and is only $21 and apparently you get 2 of them in a package, sooo that means you can sell one to a friend for $21 and break even on the deal! OK, you could sell one for $11 and only be out $10 for a fitting that you would have paid $46.39 for. These fittings fit -3AN hose. Davy

Josh, if your u-joint fails, they do have another one there that looks significantly stronger: Part Number: 3-3130DG Alternate Part Number: 3-3130BF Features & Benefits Duralast Gold universal joints are manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment specifications. This results in a better fit, reduced vibration and less maintenance. Duralast Gold journal crosses are heat-treated and engineered to maximize life. We use a solid forged cross body to increase joint strength for rigorous loads. Our Duralast Gold u-joints come pre-greased with synthetic lithium grease minimizing installation time and providing a worry free product that never requires maintenance. Our nitrile rubber seals are long wearing and abrasion resistant. They optimize grease retention and prevent contamination. Our specially formulated Alumi-Shield ® anti-corrosion coating allows you to use Duralast Gold u-joints on vehicles originally equipped with aluminum drive shafts or aftermarket upgrades. •Never needs greasing - factory filled with synthetic lithium grease •Solid forged cross-body to increase joint strength for rigorous loads •Precision ground needle bearings for higher load carrying capacity •Nitrile rubber seal engineered to reduce seal surface friction •Manufactured in TS16949 certified facilities At least it sure reads better--I'm sold even if it isn't better, hah! Since we're all about performance, it may be a consideration, especially if you plan to drive the car hard (who doesn't?). I appreciate you posting the link. I think I found what I want to buy and they are $14.99. Very reasonable IMO. I think JTR recommends the u-joints like these w/o grease fittings becuase they claim they are stronger. Davy

Ditto on the front--I love the look you are going after. Please post more photos as you progress. Nice work! Davy

He must have mounted the "setback" plates going backward instead forward on the engine block--yes, that would certainly put the engine "far out and up in the engine bay" It has been done before, but the only guy that admitted it was humble about it and just put them in the correct position. Problem solved. The JTR kit is hard to beat to be sure. Davy

Thanks for the update on the car(s). Hey, at least you got out a couple of times this year I agree with Hans--the different views or angles was a nice touch. That little car is too quick Davy

I also liked the "then and now" juxtaposition. Frank did a great job putting that together. Thanks for the link. Davy

Hanns, it looks like they did a decent job, but it's really difficult to tell from the photos. I assume you looked it over once they were finished and were pleased with the work. My main concern with doing what they did would be the flex in the crossmember when your front end is coming down after being nose up coming out of the hole. I'm just trying to picture in my head what they did and how they could make it as still or stiffer (sure the 1/4 inch plate helps) than the stock crossmember. When I think of a flatter section like that, I immediately think of flex. Again, it's just hard to see the reinforcing they did. Are you ever going to run a strut bar or does that seem like it's unwarranted to do so? Just curious because you haven't run one that I know of from the beginning. EDIT: after carefully looking at the bottom, it looks like there is a lot more metal there than I first noticed. Maybe flex is a non-issue. Take care, Davy

I think it is cool that you were able to show the car off a little and people could hear the car and see it in action--worth the price of admission, definitely! Good to see the car out again Davy

Looking HEAVY! I love the back end of the car, Stony. It still looks like a stock Z body for the most part. Like Mr. Miagi says, "Same, but different." Great updates--thanks for the photos! Davy