rudypoochris

Instructions on the modern-motorsports webpage let you know that you need to shorten the shaft: It was sort of a pain in the butt, but it wasn't that bad. Wouldn't take very long at all if I had to do it again. Instructions are attached - Enjoy. Z31 CV SHAFT SHORTENING STEP BY STEP.pdf

Toyota guys you can breathe more easily. After measuring the back of my Rota Grid I came up with 6.625" mounting surface diameter and at 1" of depth 7.5". On the Rota RB the mounting surface is <6" and at 1" the diameter is 6.25". Thus the S12W's should clear. If anyone has these brakes though it would be much appreciated if you could confirm that they do not protrude closer than 3.125" at 1" away from the mounting surface.

Looks awesome!

Most certainly anything on this page: http://rotawheel.com/rb1.htm But I have a suspicion there are a lot more options... Doesn't hurt to ask the representative when you place your order.

You guys wouldn't happen to know if that gel coat is rattle-can-able? As in can it be sprayed using aerosol cans - does it come in a can?

Awesome! What is the red gel coat exactly? It looks like it has some meat to it.

I was able to get some better pictures at the Vacaville meet n' greet today. It was nice. Thanks to Gollum, Ncfisher, and Stealth-Z; we were able to mount up the two sample wheels on a bones stock 1978 280z. Just look at that rear suspension clearance! Thank you WizardBlack for looking into the Toyota brakes. I will measure the Grids I have (which I know do not clear) and compare them to the RB's (which I suspect should clear). I have also perused through the forum and found instances of people using Toyota brakes with 16x8 and other size RB's with no issue at all. On Monday I will be calling the rep. to find out if the Rota manufacturer really can make the RB-R exactly as specified, if not I will have to find out what needs to be done. BTW: These Rota RB's look fantastic just the way they are. I am almost worried the RB-R will look worse... BUT I do love the deep dish and one never knows. We shall see.

Aww shucks. Thats a shame. Short of butchering the head every 4.173" doesn't sound too promising.

Can anyone comment on the Ford 2.3L engine bore spacing - or the Volvo B234F? Does it share a similar bore spacing to the 5.0L? Reason being - people swap Volvo B234F heads onto that motor... that is a DOHC head with 96mm bore...

Only way you can even that brake balance out is with the prop valve and the 4x1.75" front setup. Even then, I don't know. Out of all the available calipers out there, that is probably the last I would look for since it is very heavy, costs the E-brake function, and has too much piston area for stock fronts.

I think you need a V8 and some 17x9.5" group buy Rota RB's. 275mm rubber.

Depends on the thickness. I think we are actually probably okay on intereference with S12W's thinking back on where it was touching. Like I said, I will measure my Rota Grid's. If there was a spacer it wouldn't be more than 5mm anyway, but still. No spacer is better than any spacer (naturally). I don't believe it is an issue. I hope so too. I hear stock brakes are pretty good. For the price it made more sense for me to go with JSK's Wilwood kit, piecing it together myself. I think it is quite superior to the Toyota S12W stuff it replaced. Then again I have never actually driven my car so... I am not sure this statement makes sense. Please clarify. How would longer studs and spacers effect lowering? Lowering will eventually effect clearance for the tire anyway. Also, if there is a spacer, which there probably won't be... it would not be so thick that longer studs would be needed. ------------------ I have been in contact back and forth with the representative and the factory trying to make sure they understand the specifications (in particular the lip/dish and offset adjustments with out adding material to the back side) and are willing to make the wheel as proposed. I will keep you all posted.

On my Explorer I go WOT and shift before 1,000rpm around town. Driving a trip that usually takes 2 hours exactly it took me 3:30 due to traffic. I averaged 19.5 using the shift before 1,000rpm tactic in traffic. I am sure 280z fuel injection and torque curve is very different than EEC-IV and Explorer curve. On the freeway and elsewhere I cruise usually 72mph if it is a normal freeway, or 75mph if it is a faster freeway. Mainly because my time isn't worth going 55mph. I think I would see a point or two more in mpg by going 55mph on the freeway. I averaged 21mpg all highway @ 75mph last time I drove it on a 70 mile test. There was a smidge of a tail wind though. I run 36psi all around. In summation you might try going WOT before 1,000rpm or 1,500rpm in a higher numerical gear - if your EFI can handle it. My reasoning behind my madness is that it largely eliminates the restriction of the throttle body. Try it, who knows.

Thanks for the info! Sounds good. Do you notice the engagement as a kind of delayed thing. As in, do you notice it feeling open around the corner - then you apply power - then a half second later torque split. Or is it instantaneous?

Not sure in all honesty. If you don't mind measuring the protrusion I could tell you right now. Measure the distance it protrudes from the mounting surface and then measure the distance from axis of rotation the protrusion is at. I will know much more after inspecting my Rota Grids and comparing them to these if there is an issue.

Looking for follow up on this. How are the re-shimmed diffs holding up? If so, did you use the ))))(((( configuration? On stock washers? On McMaster? Thanks!

Oh, thats news to me. I would call Reider Racing and ask. It appears to be so from the last post in the group buy thread. Thats too bad. The KAAZ is something like $800 on Ebay though. Whether or not I would buy that over a worn OEM unit... well, probably. Alternatively an OBX Helical might work if they figured out how to fix its inherent quality issues.

Can anyone explain?

I would go for it if the center unit is locking reasonably. If you can turn them opposite with very little resistance I would skip it and just buy a powerbrute.

Not to be an arse, but if you are going to speak negatively of Rota wheels - which is completely okay to do in my opinion - then please show us some evidence that details how the wheels were used, what was mounted on them, where they were being driven, Rotas actions after knowing of failure... that sort of stuff. Because it is "cheap" and because it is a "knock-off" does not cut it in my opinion.

I will get the rear fitment done with Gollum on the 29th. It should not be an issue. The wheels definitely clear with coil overs. As this is a Watanabe duplicate offset I doubt it will cause problems, but one never knows. As far as the S12W brakes and these wheels... You may need to do some grinding to get it to work. Reason being that the S12W is sooo close to the mounting surface, despite not protruding much. At the same time it might be completely fine. That is something I cannot test since I no longer have S12W's... they DID interfere with my 16x8 +10 Rota Grids, but I only needed minimal grinding on the caliper or a 5mm or so spacer. ------ After much consideration and numbers crunching, I have changed the brake specification from 1.25" clear at 7.5" from rotation to .875" clear for the up and coming Rota RB-R. Reason being that I was alerted dish/lip would barely increase if otherwise. For people who do end up having interference at this new dimension, I will provide spacers free of charge. For reference Wilwood's front and rear stick out ~.5". Watanabe R-Types have ~.75" clearance. This should be a safe dimensions, but I just thought I would let you guys know. In either configuration I suspect (after owning a set) that S12W's will be an issue. I will provide spacers if that makes them fit, but there is a possibility no spacer under 10mm will work. I will do all that I can to help you guys modify your setups to fit if necessary. Additionally the rep. has let me know that for the Rota RB they will be drilling the socket bores to 30mm so larger lug nuts and odd shapes are no longer an issue.

LOL. For the differential, I would probably just order the $4.50 fel-pro gasket, then reseal it with an 1/8" bead of RTV red. For the girlfriend... well it would probably simpler to figure that one out if women were all OBD-II.

The time estimate on the RB-R molds is approximately 2 months. The rep. believes ~3 months until we can receive those wheels. That is a long wait, so I do understand that it is indeed frustrating. At the same time though there is the RB option for those of you wanting something now. Sorry about the semi-bad news (time wise), but essentially we are getting two wheel styles with two different sizes (front and rear) all for the price of one. The representative has really helped us out in this respect. The choice is up to you guys, wait it out for the RB-R or order the RB. Either of the two should be a fantastic wheel. The RB style has really grown on me a lot as well. I would be quite content running it myself, but I think I will go for the RB-R since I am not time constrained and I like the staggered look and the possibility of a lower weight. For those of you wishing to order the RB-R, I would highly advise waiting to contact the representative until we are farther along with the molds and closer to production. I would hate for there to be some kind of confusion in where someone got the wrong wheel (RB instead of RB-R for instance). Stuff like that should not happen, but in reality it can. Just a thought.

For those of you thinking about tires... This is what I have done: Fronts 255/40/17 BFG KD from tirerack.com currently on close out. Cost me $384 shipped for the pair: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+T%2FA+KD&partnum=54YR7GFTAKDL&partnum=54YR7GFTAKDR&vehicleSearch=false&index=0&fromCompare1=yes&place=0&leftTire=54YR7GFTAKDL&rightTire=54YR7GFTAKDR Rears 275/40/17 BFG KD from ebay.com cost me $301 shipped for the pair - corresponded with seller, these tires were manufactured in 2007 and have no miles on them, BFG sticker still on tread... waiting for these to arrive now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/275-40-ZR-17-2-BFGOODRICH-G-FORCE-T-A-KD-TIRE-C-O_W0QQitemZ350041669101QQihZ022QQcategoryZ66475QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Total was $685 to my door for a set of tires that usually cost ~$1100 shipped. Just food for thought. These tires pull ~.99g in tirerack.com survey on a BMW 325i. Just some food for thought and a tip based on too many hours reading tire reviews and tests. EDIT: BFG KD rear link updated. The seller has 35 pairs of these, brand new.

This is still going! The Rota RB in 17x9.5 -19 and 17x9 -13 is now available for order: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123576&page=23&highlight=rota The Rota RB-R which will feature a staggered lip and a more recessed spoke shape will be an additional wait. Information on ordering, the differences between these wheels, and all that stuff is available in the above link. Price should be $750 shipped in the continental USA.