rudypoochris

I wonder what a completely blocked off one would look like? What si the best way of blocking the holes?

I am under the impression that turbines are horrible engines to use in normal cars. They simply dont do well with changing rpms on demand. They need to spool up and all that, and if you try to get it to raise its rpms quickly then you can potentially melt the thing and cause alot of damage. they do make loads of power though. A very very wide CVT might be able to handle it, but otherwise you would just be slippin the clutch alot. Good for a top speed test or something of the sort I would think.

Some arn't, from my experience many are. It is to keep the noise down. Don't remember how it works, but different spacing lowers the noise level according to some advertisements I have read.

That sucks. Just wondering, why did you choose to buy that one back?

It seems the link does not work. It sends you to the convertable page even if you click the "how to install a 5.0 in a Z"

Hate to brake it to you Skyline GTR's are not the best car ever. And he has the 2wd version with the rb25 (i believe correct me if it is a 26)... Still a sweet car, but I agree it is a rwd altima. But hey the altima gets up and goes.

What is an L34.....?

If clutches are a big problem for you research FIAT clutches. Basically the clutch I learned on requires the same amount of effort to depress fully as the gas pedal. I didn't like it because the car felt like a toy, although it did completment the stock ultra light flywheel. If you got a knee problem I am sure this would be a great remedy. It probably uses a booster btw.

Could make a good christmas rave setup....

Uh... I havent had that experience... Did you put your car in the "on" position to get the fuel pump running? I often used to start by simply letting out the brake and clutch then letting it build a roll down the driveway. One rolling even a little a quick pull out on the clutch will get the engine running. I don't do that anymore because most EFI cars run about a second without fuel to get oil flowing before combustion.

Mike Dennis (73botiz) did the fronts for me and it turned out perfect. He is in San Leandro though. Kind of far. If you want to contact him I will ask if that is okay, just PM me

It is fine to go over 600cfm as long as your cam profile, heads, intake, etc match. 600cfm should be just about perfect for that block. I have been drooling over the 320 horse also, but decided I would probably go for the 300hp block for $400 less. For now I am sticking to this 225 horse motor, we shall see.

If you have a turbo 87-89 300zx you have a clutch LSD. It is most noticeable by the finned cover. If you have the N/A car (most probable) you don't have an LSD. This has been discussed 1,222,345,654,754,465,356 times in the drivetrain forum, search LSD there or Clutch LSD and it will come up for sure.

This American learned stick from the start (only cars we had until the lexus). Two years ago on a FWD Fiat wagon (Marea Weekend) on some Italian backroads. It probably makes about 120-130 as a guess and has no LSD and 165 or 175 tires. NO traction and no torque, power comes at 3,000+. That was fun. Sweet car though. Italian cars feel so completely different than american cars. I prefer it greatly. Even cars we have in america in europe feel completely different (like the celica). Also there engines make it to the top of the last gear quite promptly almost always, unlike here where often the gears are so long the engine can't push before the top. Also, my cousins focus 86hp turbo diesel has a more nimble engine than my dads old audi 5000s gasoline

What type of rod? Push rod or connecting rod? Also, it is a salvage 94 engine that my brother used for about 3 years in his capri, it is sound. I wouldn't worry about the doubling of torque in the Z, as almost the entire driveline will be new. The rod through the firewall I guess is a concern, but it is going to be a stock engine that wont be abused. It is for the street, I dont plan to push it hard enough to throw anything. But if there is a weak flywheel bolt or two I am not sure how hard I would have to push. It just makes me uneasy that is all. I am lucky though that the last bolt stripped, we got almost all of the bolts to 80 ft/lb with only 1/4" bite, if we had acctually run the engine with that much, I think the flywheel would of come off for sure.

Nice subaru/elise/cayman.... Z

I heard that the alluminum 300zx calipers have warping issues. How much do custom rotors cost, I am afraid to ask....

Sounds good. Ya i dont think the 205's would be streetable, but I would run them on the street (I am used to engines being peaky). I acctually enjoy having no low end and an ultra light flywheel (i learned on an FWD fiat marea 5 speed 4 cylinder that has NO power below 3), but this is a v8 build so stick with 185 MAX. Also, watch out for what carb you use... don't go 800cfm on a stock build or anything crazy like that. Make sure all the parts match, there is no sense in running a stock cam on 205's, just like it doesn't make sense to run a stock block on dual 650 cfm's. It will be worse. Make sure you keep the scavenging up if you want that torque...

Excellent advice, I just checked the autozone and kargae websites. Rebuild calipers are only $16 a side! unloaded. Just out of curiosity does anyone know of a 2 or 4 piston caliper that will bolt up to the car. Also, if a two piston caliper and a four piston caliper are hooked up to the same system, what is the difference in claming force? Or is it the same, just a difference in force spread.

Just write up a good disclaimer, all that "AS-IS" stuff and what not.

I have the s12w's and I am adding 16" wheels now. A 10.8" rotor isn't very satisfying now, as there is much more room. Does anyone know of rotors that will work in a 11.5-12.5" size? Is it safe to oversize like this provided the caliper is moved out via an adapter plate? Also, do the ends of the calipers need to be filed down a bit (is this safe) to accomodate the flatter curve of the rotor. Lastly, does anyone know of a website that can specify the offset of the rotor, diameter, width, and bolt pattern.