rudypoochris

http://www.outlawbrakes.com/brakes.html How about the stage "2" setup for the s30? $650 gets you a 11.5" rotor .81" width with vents and outlaw 2800 calipers with pads and all the necessary hardware to bolt it up. I don't think it has dust boots though. Can anyone comment on the quality of outlaw calipers?

Car on or off... Are you sure your just not giving the booster time to rebuild vacumm?

It seems that if a person were to pay jiffy lube 3 times to do a dino oil change vs 1 time to do a synthetic oil change you would be saving money. Also IMHO since I believe time is money, saving the time that is usually spent doing an oil change definetly offsets the cost increase, if there even is an increase... That is just my opinion. Plus you get more protection, some hp, and an oil that simply doesn't break down... IDEA! What about those ultra high powered magnets in a synthetic oil. Most of the contaminents were metalic in the link I read between amsoil and mobil 1. If those super magnets can gather the contaminents right out of the synthetic i think the oil could go on forever (not acctually just really long). All you would need is some topping off and a filter every 10k miles. This still wouldn't work for non-magnetic metals (whats the word ferros?).

400w sounds overkill to me on a 1 and some ghz system. IMHO you should just buy the cheapest computer you can find, because it will still have more mhz then what you had. So for $300-$400 get the computer, put in your old video card b/c intel integrated grphics suck, and then hook the old HD up as the secondary drive.

"Just keeping it stock"... Imagine if they heard that when the first 240z came out... Are you keeping your 400hp nuremburg stormer "just stock"?

Check the wheel bearings and the t/c bolts.

BTW i am pretty sure synthetic never breaks down vs dino which will.

I am totally into the jackets, but it depends alot on price and how they look...

Ok can someone set me straight on the short throw shifter efforts. A short throw shifter always takes more force to move then a normal throw shifter, right? I think that is correct and I think I can calculate it instead of pretending we know what the efforts will be like. Lemme try. The dimensions of the shifter are just an example not factual. Stock shifter - Assuming 2" below center of pivot and 10" above: Mechanical advantage = 10"/2" = 5:1 Short throw shifter - Assuming 3" below center of pivot and 9" above: Mechanical advantage = 9"/3" = 3:1 Short throw shifter takes 5/3 times more effort to get a gear, which would be 1.67 times more. Is that right? And the throw would be 60% (3"/5" = .6) of the original distance. Can someone confirm this or dissprove this, and sorry if this is a hijack.

I am pretty sure thye are owned by the same people... Just a different name.

5ohphil I agree with all of what you have said. Especially on the normal 5.0 being okay part, a slong as it is roller. The cam and heads are going to get chnaged anyway if you are going beyond stock, so it simply does not matter if it is a HO or a non-HO, unless the bottom end or osme internals are beefed up in a way I don't know? About the other information though, I think pretty much everyone was in agreement, since hat was corrected, that the 302 pan does not match up to a 351 block, and that the deck height is increased making the engine taller and wider.

All depends what your style is and how you want your power to come out. I think 400hp with a paxton will equate to about the same cost in N/A for 400hp worth of upgrades. From what I have seen so far this seems to be true any way. The charger would most likely have more torque, but since you spent all your $$ on the charger your redline would still be around 5.5k. More streetable for sure. For the N/A the same amount of money would probably be spent on H/I/C which probably would set you in the 6k-7k range for redline and most likely would shift your powerband up the rpm scale a notch or two, all dependant on what cam you use of course. I think the N/A route is better though. If you go with a completely new block, seeing as you can order it with those performance parts already, whereas it is hard to find someone that will sell you a stock block with a paxton on it, alot of money can be saved getting you to the 400hp ish mark in about 3k and some. One would have to get the stock block and then by the paxton. I am not sure how much a paxton or K&B costs but I will guess atleast 3k, which would make the upgrade kind of crazy to me, as you would still be stuck with a used engine or have to shell out alot of $$$ for a new one in addition to the super charger. EDIT: Just noted you said a mild 302 with a charger on it. HP wise I don't know what your shooting for, so I can't really say much. But it will most likely cost more then the N/A route up to about the 400/450 mark, after that go with the supercharger, but beefed up internals should be come mandatory.

Local oil company... Well it is texas so i guess.....

I am doing the hydraulic clutch on a 72 240z. Using wilwood parts I calculated the costs to be less than $200 including $50 of mahine shop work. A wilwood master with a wilwood slave would be used. It would be intresting though to see if the stock clutch setup can pull the t-5 fork. Check out the photo I found somewhere on this site below, sorry I do not know who to give the credit to. Hmm. A neal or wilwood slave should work.

I just noticed the "rock hard" label right after reading the stereo one, very funny.

Sweet

If i remember correctly the STI weighs over 100 lbs more then the base EVO VIII, not saying that thats all there is to it, but it does give the STI an advantage.

A good idea might be to get the spacers and if you don't like them, just sell them. Also note they do come in different thicknesses so you don't have to go bananas. They really aren't difficult to install at all. Check it out. And np.

I like the mechanical mods, but the body kit and wheels just aren't my style. Other then that I love it! Very clean

Depends, the fender can be adjusted a litttle. But yes, it would most likely be 1/16" to maybe 1/8" off. Thats why it is a bandaid. But if your doors are already inward 1/16 to and eigth might as well kill two birds with one stone.

sweeet. I wish I could find an s30 ad though.

OMG i didn't know s130's could look good! Just kidding, but I am impressed! I still dislike that chrome thingamajigger between the side windows and the quarter windows.

If it is debris you might want to hop on the supermagnet trian that has been in a few threads recently. From my experience with a ford t-5 (so it may be different) with a king cobra clutch (not CF!) they specifically say not to lubricate the pilot more than it already is, infact they say to remove excess. Then again my pilot was not bronze like yours.

Bumpsteer spacers would be the best solution in my opinon because 1. The will not alter the ride height of the car. 2. They will fix the control arm angles so that they point down, in turn letting you lower the car a little more with the correct LCA angles maintained. 3. It doesn't require machining. 4. They can be put on with out uninstalling the strut, lower control arm, or tension rod. Coil overs or a spring compressor would be required.

A 1/16" to 1/8" set of washers under the hinges might do it, or even better a plate. But still it is a patch, the bottom line is the stripping doesn't fit. I will check out the door hinge system next time I am up at the Z's home.