rudypoochris

check the ford boards or the drivetrain boards i remember hitman47 talking about one....

http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=530 nismo 4 pinion lsd up to the task? i have a 71 240z most likely the earlier r180 and it isnt in the set back position, hmmm

TKO600 for stick? i think thats the 600 lb ft one, man your going auto too bad. O well each to his own! BTW look into the top loader four, it should take 1200 lb/ft from what ive been reading (stick used on fairlane 500's and someother very heavy torquey cars)

Manuel, is there any other transmission?

all i know is a mercedes 3.X diesel 6 pushes 370 lbft of torque.... diesel isnt as dirty as everyone thinks, really i swear! btw i would love to do it, if i had the money, but seeing as i dont im sticking to a ford 302

someone please swap a diesel into their Z. please ?

hi i know this has been talked about alot but i havent been able to find a clear cut answer to either of these questions. 1. Can the r180 with a 3.90 gear and LSD take 225hp and 300 lb/ft of torque, how about 340hp and 310lb/ft (no clutch popping but some 3,000 rpm starts) 2. Can the r180 in earlier cars be moved back to correct the half shaft angles with out modification to the half shaft's length's? (so can the mustache be flipped and the diff moved back without cutting the half shafts shorter) thanks!

thats two240's car, to give credit where it is due, and i think it looks pretty sweet, i want to do something similar to that but im wondering 1 does this looks tock enough not to get pulled over? and 2... how does one fix the indentation where the bumper used to be? (hammertime?)

ok i want to do the dual rear exaust thing where it goes threw the rear (diffuser? metal thing that si below the bumper) and i think it will work/loot infinately better without a rear bumper, do you think the cops would care? or they are oblivious?

damn, even the rear's? does a body kit bumper count? like one of thsoe urethane bars (like the one on the type 3 msa air dam)

can i be your friend?

in california are fornt and rear bumpers required? thanks

i liek it.... but dont speed in it get caught real fast! btw i like to choose car colors by looking at doritos and other chip bags. If you like bright colors thats THE way to go.... walk down the safeway isle you will see some awesome combinations. They got a green one jsut like yours cept they paired it with a yellow, i like your black better

im intrested in putting in the old 280z u-joint shafts (because im cheap).... how difficult is it to simply change the center but keep the shafts? do the stub axels match?

neither. it is rear wheel hp + aerodynamic drag atleast its that way ont he earlier models.

why would a tranny need to be replaced? its not like im running up the syncro and hearing it whine no force on lever really either

I was just wondering what kind of damage is being done when I enter 1st at 35mph (5,000rpm). I don't do this anymore but i used to for engine breaking down a horrible hill. Any way when i would do it i would put the stick in neutral at 35 shoot the engine to 5,000 rpm (redline) then push it into 1st with no mishaps, just like selecting any gear, no syncro whine no hesitation no need to force. I cant see how this could be detrimental to the tranny but it just seems not right any opinions? (please dont flame with out evidence/reason) Also this is a stock t5 in a 1992 ford explorer xlt it will enter first with no syncro whine, or force applied to lever, in a very reasonable amount of time at 25 with out revving the engine.

well congradulations, im only 17 so i can feel your excitement. Never tried racing a honda and i dont race people anymore (that was short lived). any way enjoy the car you got for sure. I got a 5 speed standard shift 1992 explorer its slow as hell and handels like its got solid axel and leaf springs with no lsd and the hardest tires you have ever seen.... o wait it has all of that AND more. Any way the point was enjoy the car you got as long as its got a stick even if its slow as hell it will still be fun (and it slides, doesnt roll very much due to horrible grip, the tires simply break away

hmmm well if you ever feel insecure about your glittery stickers jsut whip out $50 bucks and get flat black krylon(sp?) rust tough paint... paint over them stickers and notice the nice texture those stars bring to the flat black.... But... are you sure that all that adhesive isnt going to bite you int he *** when you acctually really want to paint the car and you have to remove the stuff?

well i dont know about everyone else but i got my 25 dollar gtech (1994 edition pro) off ebay and it works great. My ford explorer with t5 and stock everying puts 130 hp to the wheels + aerodrag in first gear (can floor it with out spinning them on normal flat pavement). The crank hp is rated at 160hp so 130hp seems acctually just right. Few things to make sure of... 1. drive on a flat surface, durrr 2. make sure it reads 0 g's when your stopped (which means device must be flat/not broken) 3. the tires CANNOT spin 4. No clutch slippage/or autotrans whatever its called, so its best used on a stick... also if you use an auto remember to limit it to a certain gear, swithcing gears will destroy the readings (if i remember correctly) 5. The faster the speed the less accurate wheel hp will be.

maybe power stearing went when the engine died? i dont speak japanese though so just a guess, and a bad one at that. blow out notlikely imho (would the the car would be much worse off.... much quicker) the rear end dying sure maybe why not. If you can read japanese your probably right!

those stickers probably add 20 horse power..... but hey for 50 bucks why not?

can someone give me the part number napa or non napa for those studs? thanks

why didnt ford just remake the charger..............................................JK!

so how much length do those studs add?