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rudypoochris

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Everything posted by rudypoochris

  1. rudypoochris
    which diff? quaife?
  2. rudypoochris
    wtf is this..... nifty i guess... got to admire the work put into it
  3. rudypoochris
    4251 for the 300c awd 5.7l and 4031 for the 5.7l charger... maybe you guys are thinking GVWR which is curb + max number of passengers i think they count a passenger as 180 lbs each... dont forget trunk capacity.... fuel.... etc ..... just notiuced only offered in an automatic anyway... why give it 425 horses and an auto? maybe this is just my type of thinking
  4. rudypoochris
    how did they get the back of those Z's with out a dip in the metal where the bumper was? does anyone know how to patch that? metal welded on then sanded? sorry for hijack!
  5. rudypoochris
    thanks man, do you know where i can get replacement studs (napa?) or is it a pretty standard piece that can be got at any auto parts store? Also any one have any luck on balljoint removale with out that tool or do i need to give up and get the balljoint removal tool? (i tried a dual vice railroad tie + scrap metal removal setup..... no good i was amazed... i guess not enough leverage)
  6. rudypoochris
    hi thats my 240z hub i was wodnering what wheel studs (i think they are called? the ones the wheels bolt to) should i use for modern rims? Do i need a longer length, different style? how do i remove them, ive beeat them with a sledge and tried a vise no luck so far, any ideas?
  7. rudypoochris
    does anyone have a web page with install info and pictures for a 15/16's? or atleast a post about install? i want to see how difficult it is, thanks
  8. rudypoochris
    think its from a 240sx isnt it? just wondering how stiff it will be, is their any calculation for this... geeks please chime in ....
  9. rudypoochris
    is the 1"1/16 master cylinder good for a 240z running toyota 4x4 front brakes and 240sx rears, or is the 15/16" a more normal feel. (1 1/16 maybe is too firm??) any installation differences between the two, thanks.
  10. rudypoochris
    what sean said, it is amplified by the progressivity of the front springs i believe but imagining that you threw in a chevy v8, which is much heavier then the datsun block (assuming not too much alluminum was used) and thent he addition of a tranny meant to cope with the torque (more weight, in beefed up gears) you probably would have lowered the car an inch or two... just sell them, there isnt anything wrong with them.
  11. rudypoochris
    are the tokico shocks really that bad or are we just flamming them because of some mixup? Im jsut wondering because it seems like there are alot of complaints for them, yet alot of people also seem to say they are perfect. I have the package and havent installed it yet, but is it really going to ruin the cars ride height?
  12. rudypoochris
    cheap o detail as int he reversable control arms, there is only one rear contorl arm. Left and right are the same
  13. rudypoochris
    cheap-o detail huh? clever but it looks like something is wrong from underneath imho
  14. rudypoochris
    wait can you help explain how you fixed that problem? i have tokico illumina's witht the springs that im going to install soon. If i got this right....: First you had only installed front springs, which made the nose ride high, then you installed the back which kept it the same, and then....?
  15. rudypoochris
    bwahha i guess if you wanted you could proportion the rear brakes so well that the rears would lock up on the rotor surface farthest from the hub then unlock as it approached center followed by relocking... creating a pulse. Probably damn near impossible but hey, its abs? if you didnt get this it has something to do with leverage
  16. rudypoochris
    why not take a normal light rotor and drill some holes in it? would make you a superlight + drilled for heat dissapation.
  17. rudypoochris
    maybe ill just go for a http://shop.centralcoastmustang.net/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=35 or a http://shop.centralcoastmustang.net/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=34 i dont get whats so bad about the hyper pistons? but both of those engines seems pretty good aluminum 302 for about 3000 that put sout 370 hp! and a 340 horse 302 that is 2400 not bad concidering the ford racing equivalent is about 3400.
  18. rudypoochris
    after you finish this i want to know how much horse power a single man running on the roller has....? hehe also why not a Gtech instead of a gigantic dyno? is it more precise? i also assume you want rwhp not real hp (after aerodrag)
  19. rudypoochris
    well i got a 94 mustang 302 block the oens rated for 225 or 205 hp i think what si the redline on this? (it is bone stock EFI but im converting it to carb) I thought the main redline factor was throwing a pushrod, is this correct? So with beefed rods you could add a good 200-300 to the redline i would think, or is it the cam that decides if a rod will be thrown?
  20. rudypoochris
    On a stock 302 redline is around 5800 i believe... now to boost that red line to say 7500-8500 what would be required beyond balancing the crank very very well.... shorter rods? crank from a less ci block? thanks!Q
  21. rudypoochris
    hmm, were the early skylines available in awd or not that early on (when was awd introduced) also how much do those cars weigh? thanks!
  22. rudypoochris
    well napa only has 3/16" in metric and o'rileys isnt any where near me (im in CA) im also looking for 5/16" and 1/4" in metric which i cant find
  23. rudypoochris
    where do you even go to buy a skyline like that! and how much are they for a relatively abused one?
  24. rudypoochris
    where do you get accurate weights?
  25. rudypoochris
    wow how much horse does a 351c4v put out? tq? where the hell do you get those headers? runs on 1 cam i assume?
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